How not to end up looking like a Carrot with DIY Hair Dye (Hints & Tips On Colouring Hair At Home)

Member Name: Redhead23

Product:	Hints & Tips On Colouring Hair At Home
Date:	31/05/01 (19375 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Cheaper than getting it done professionally, large choice of products, you can do it when you have the time/when you like

Disadvantages: Takes practice, can be tricky on your own, overdoing it can damage your hair

Redhead23 is in 'Hair Mode' today!

I've just written an Op about a particularly disappointing brand of hair dye and as I am typing this Op, my hair is a smelly mess of bleach - a preparation for getting the long overdue roots of my naturally dark brown hair back into full 'redhead' glory!

So what better way to pass the waiting time than to write an opinion full of tricks and tips on the subject, sharing my experience that I have gained over more than 6 years (8 if you include Henna)? I've tried hanging my washing with my bleach-fuelled hair, but the embarrassing stares from the neighbours have forced me back onto my computer now, so...


------ Choosing your Hair Dye -----

The reasons why more and more people end up going out to chemists to get their hands on DIY hair colouring kits are numerous, but I think it is fair to say that there are to main categories: Those who fancy a change (or are just fed up with a dull natural colour, like I am) and those who want to cover their grey hairs.

There is also a much larger choice of products available than a few years ago, and the procedure can be very expensive if you have it done professionally, plus a hairdresser's usually only uses one specific brand of dye that might not have the colour you like - so DIY dye kits are the obvious choice!

But no matter how nice your friend's (or Mum's, auntie's or whatever) hair looked after his/her treatment, he or she won't have exactly the same type and colour of hair as you do, so before you just go out and buy the first pack of hair dye that tickles your fancy or that someone recommended to you, there are a few questions you should ask yourself:

- Permanent or semi-permanent?

All hair dyes available should contain information about the durability of the treatment on the outside of the package - when you dye your hair for the first time, it is important to conside
r which type you would prefer. There are three main types of durability available:

Grade I: Wash-Out

These come in all sorts of shades and are available as sprays, hair mascara, gels or mousse. The colours in these ranges are often very funky, but they will vanish once you washed your hair a few times (1-6 washes). I don't normally use these, but they are ideal to test if your chosen colour suits you at all, or if you just want to make a stunning impression at a party and then want to go back to normal the next day.

Although the results (especially on darker hair) are sometimes a bit disappointing, you will not lose much because you can simply wash it out if you don't like it! If you have very light hair though, it may be more advisable to use a more permanent dye, as the result will be very intense and while the dye is washing out, all 'stages' will be visible and it may still be partly visible weeks after the application.

Grade II: Semi-Permanent

These usually last a little longer than Grade I dyes (up to 24 washes or 6 weeks), and they sometimes contain ammonia (developing cream) but no bleach. This means that they do not permanently alter the structure and colour of your hair and can be fully washed out over time without leaving your grown-out roots stick out like a sore thumb.

They are ideal for first-timers (as you won't do permanent damage if you distribute it unevenly or you don't like the colour) or for people who change their colour quite regularly, but will not usually cover grey hairs fully. The choice of colours is wider than with permanent dyes, but the results are often not as intense as you might want them to be, and if you have to bleach your hair (more about that later) before the application, you might have to re-apply another package very soon because if the colour fades on bleached hair it will look messy very quickly.

I would recommend the Wella colour mousse
range as well as the Schwarzkopf Live! semi-permanent colours and the 'Directions' tubs (I've only ever seen those in the more trendy clothes and accessory shops though) - the first two are available in both natural and funky colours, while 'Directions' cater more for the punky colours, ranging from light blue over purple to fire-engine red, pink and green.

Grade III: Permanent

These dyes are, as the name says, permanent, i.e. even if they partly fade (they shouldn't, but most do anyway!), your roots will become visible once your hair has grown. Permanent colours usually contain ammonia and a bit of bleach, which helps the colour to get into your hair - this means that the colour will stay in longer and that you can achieve good results without bleaching separately as long as your desired colour is not too different from that of your natural hair.

They offer the most efficient grey coverage and are most suitable for those among us who plan to dye their hair regularly - especially if you chose a colour that is very different from your natural shade, you will have to dye it again once the different-coloured roots become too unsightly, but you can of course choose a shade close to your own for the second go so the roots won't be too noticeable once your hair has grown a bit.

I can recommend Laboratoire Garnier 'Belle-Color' for excellent grey coverage (my Mum has used this for years, and she went grey in her late twenties!), supermarkets' and chemists' own brands often offer a cheap and wide range of more natural shades and brands like 'Feria' or 'Natéa' offer both natural shades and some special 'funky' ones. My personal favourite for intense reds (they also have blues and purples) is Schwarzkopf Live! though - this range has a lot of quite special colours and gives you long-lasting and intensive results.

- What Colour do I want?

If you dye your
hair for the first time, you should choose a shade that is not too far off your natural colour, as this will make it easier to use semi-permanent colours, which are more suitable for first-time users. The package of such products will usually give details about the hair colours it is suitable for, and the colour types are usually divided into three colour groups: Light (light to dark blonde), Medium (dark blonde/light red to medium brown) and Dark (dark brown to black).

While a temporary or semi-permanent dye is usually only suitable for dyeing your hair in a similar colour to your own, permanent dyes will allow for a wider range - if you have dark hair, permanent ruby reds and chestnut browns will still be visible, if you have very light hair, a permanent dark dye will give deeper and more even shades of black.
(Choosing a very dark temporary dye on light hair - or if you have a lot of grey hairs - can leave you with an uneven, messy look, while light shades are often ineffective on dark hair)

The package will also tell you whether or not you have to pre-lighten your hair prior to dyeing it - I would not recommend you to do this if you are colouring your hair for the first time, unless you have an experienced friend who can apply the bleach for you.

Once you have a feeling for applying hair dye yourself, it is perfectly fine to use a pre-lightener (= bleach) if you have very dark hair and would like to go for a lighter brown or red shade, but if you want to go from dark beauty to perfect blonde, I would recommend you to get this done professionally - while the modern pre-lighteners don't usually make your hair fall out, it is extremely difficult to get even results and when you follow the bleaching with a blonde dye (as opposed to a darker shade that covers better) you will not always be able to even out the differences.

If you are not sure about the colour you have chosen (maybe it is a bit risqué or you are not sure w
hether it will cover properly), I would advise you to have a darker, more permanent shade ready - if your first attempt goes wrong, wash your hair properly, dry it and apply the darker shade evenly, nobody will ever have to know about the first disaster! ;-)

- Natural or Chemical

If you think 'natural' hair colours, then Henna springs to mind, a root that has been used for centuries to dye and condition hair, but there are other 'natural' products available on the market.
Most of them come in the form of ground herbs, but you can also buy 'chemical' hair dyes that use natural ingredients to do the colouring. The problem I had with Henna is that it is terribly hard to apply - you have to put it in a bowl and put hot water over it, which results in a green pap that has the consistency of porridge and is thus nigh-on impossible to apply evenly (even if someone applies it for you).

The colour results of purely natural dyes are often unpredictable, and it is not recommended to use conventional hair dye before the Henna-treated hair has fully grown out, as this could lead to a completely different colour than you intended to put on. But even if you can't see a colour difference after a Henna treatment, your hair will be much thicker and fuller- I've tried various brands of pure Henna dyes but never got far with them colour-wise, but it's a proper boost for worn-out, dry hair.

'Semi-natural' hair dyes (for example Schwarzkopf 'Country Colours') on the other hand are limited in their colour ranges (mostly 'natural' ones obviously) but usually give good results and are often a bit gentler on your hair.

For very intense 'natural' colours, try 'Clairol Herbal Essences', especially their red shades are very strong and vibrant!

- Length and Condition of your Hair

It is not recommended to dye your hair just after a perm, as this might res
ult in an extremely intense colour or, if you use an ammonia-based dye, might make your hair brittle and dry - pre-lightening it in such a condition would be hair suicide!

If you have just slightly dry hair, this shouldn't be too much of a problem - most dyes nowadays contain added oils and vitamins, and even pre-lighteners have become quite gentle. I usually use the Laboratoires Garnier 'Natéa' pre-lightener, which has added oils and barely stings, the supplied conditioner also leaves my hair shiny and smelling lovely.

People with very long hair should always buy two packets of the same product, as even large packets of 100ml (especially ammonia-free products often provide much less) or mousses (which is usually very efficient) will not be enough to cover it all and it will end up uneven and messy.
You might also want someone to do the dyeing for you if you have long or very curly hair, my hair is relatively short at the back and I have a feeling for distributing the dye evenly by now, but especially at the back it can become tricky with full and longer hair.

Do not attempt to dye your hair if you have any open wounds or freshly-squeezed/inflamed zits (sorry for being so graphic ;-) ) on your scalp - wait until they have healed, as it would otherwise sting very badly!


---- Preparation -----

Okay, so you have bought your desired hair dye, but you'll have to be a little patient before you start - first off, read through the instructions and check the contents of the packet.
If it contains gloves, you're fine with those, but if it doesn't (or you prefer better gloves) then get your hands on some proper ones - you should be able to buy them from chemists.

If you have never used the product before, you should do an allergy test to make sure that you are not allergic to any of the ingredients - mix a little bit of the product and dab it onto an area of your skin and leave it for a
while. If it doesn't cause itching or burning, you are pretty safe to use it on your hair.

Most brands also recommend a 'Strand Test', which means that you either mix a bit of the product together and apply it to a secluded strand of your hair, or you apply the mixture on a strand you cut off, using a bowl (don't leave it on Mum's pricey dinner table!). After the recommended time (usually 20 minutes), wipe off a bit of the product to check the intensity of the result, then test again in 10 minute intervals. If you have used the same product before, this won't be necessary, but if you go for a new/different colour it is pretty handy, although the full result often looks quite different from the test strand.

For the application you will need one or two old towels and an old top (and trousers, because you might spill some dye on them). Make sure you have removed all your jewellery from the neck- and head-area - the dye (and/or) bleach should not affect them, but especially necklaces can get in the way when you're washing off the dye and can also end up smearing the stuff all over your neck and back.

It is always handy to have an old comb ready to help distribute the dye - make sure it is a 'wide' one though, as a very fine comb will only end up wiping the dye off your hair again. Remove any rugs from the bathroom and take toothbrushes, soap dishes and other bits off the washbasin - it'll save you having to clean them later! Cover the bathroom floor with old newspapers or plastic sheets if you have a non-wipeable surface.


---- Pre-Lightening ~ 30-60 minutes -----

(Ignore if you don't need this)

As I said, I would not recommend this for your first hair dye experiment, but maybe you already have experience with colouring your hair and want to try your hand at a more risky colour that requires pre-lightening, so here goes:

WARNING: The bleaching process is not r
eversible, be it on your hair or on your clothes/curtains/carpets - make sure you really want to do it and wear old clothes and cover carpets and rugs etc.

Most pre-lighteners are quite gentle nowadays, and a good brand of hair dye will contain the necessary information on the packet - if possible, buy a pre-lightener from the same brand as your dye, as the packet of dye will contain information such as 'for medium brown hair, use XXX pre-lightener with 1 sachet of bleach' and 'for dark brown to black hair, use XXX pre-lightener with 2 sachets of bleach', which are relevant to the same-brand pre-lightener and you might end up under-or overdosing the bleach if you use a brand that uses different measuring units.

Brush your hair well before starting, or wash it if the instruction requires you to do so - make sure that the bottles from your packet of hair dye are stowed away, as you could otherwise end up mixing them up with those from the bleach kit!

A packet of bleach usually contains 2 different bottles and one or two sachets of bleach, plus a conditioner - mix the two bottles (one is the applicator bottle, the other the pre-lightening shampoo) and add the bleach as stated on your hair dye packet. This can be quite messy, as the white bleach powder goes anywhere BUT into the application bottle! Some pre-lighteners also contain phials or bottles of special oils (Jojoba is popular), which you will have to put into the bottle as well.

Now close the bottle and shake well - make sure there are no blobs of powder left, but don't wait too long before you break off the applicator nozzle, as the mixture will warm up and expand, if you wait too long you'll have splashes of bleach everywhere!

Put on the gloves and start applying the bleach, first on the tips of your hair, leaving the roots for now - these are much more sensitive to the bleaching process and will react far quicker than the rest of your hair. U
se the comb to distribute the product evenly and leave it for as long as stated in the instructions.

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A little word of warning: You must NOT wrap aluminium foil around your head after applying the bleach - you may have seen hairdressers do this when they do highlights, but they use special foil and ordinary aluminum foil will trigger a reaction (through the heat etc.) that may well cost you your mane. Just do everything according to instructions and don't try any gimmicks, and bleach will soon become your best friend!

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After the initial waiting time, check the intensity and apply the rest of the mixture onto the roots and again distribute it evenly, making sure you cover every strand properly. Then wait again (for me, this takes 5 to 10 minutes, although the instructions usually say ~15-20 minutes) until your roots are on the same level. If you now have platinum blonde roots and carrot-orange tips, don't be afraid - unless you want to dye your hair in a very light shade, the dye will be able to cover this difference easily.

Then lather your hair (most pre-lighteners contain added shampoo) and wait for 10 minutes (or as long as the instructions say) before washing it off and applying the supplied conditioner. Make sure that there is no bleach left in your hair and rinse well. I wouldn't advise you to blow-dry your hair - bleaching is a very demanding process, towel-drying your hair will be much gentler.

Throw away the rest of the mixture - if you have any stubborn stains in your bathroom or if you have blocked drains, feel free to use the mixture for it, it's bleach after all and my Dad swears by it to clean their houses' pipes.

Take a photo of your mad hairdo if you wish, as you are now ready to apply the dye! ;-)


---- Applying the Dye (~30-40 Minutes) -----

I
f the instructions tell you to wash your hair prior to applying the dye then do so now, but do not use a conditioning shampoo as this will stop the dye from staying in your hair - do not use hairspray or mousse, if you use those products regularly, you might want to wash your hair a day before you dye it, and then refrain from using them until after you've dyed it.

If you have pre-lightened your hair, towel-dry it (as above) until it reaches the 'wetness' level required by your dye - most will need your hair to be dry, others will need it to be slightly wet - then brush it.

Sometime dyes will need you to wrap a hot towel or cling film around your head once you've applied it, so get these things ready if necessary.

With gel or cream dyes, you may have several bottles/phials/sachets in a packet; with permanent and some semi-permanent dyes this is usually the developer fluid/cream and a tub or bottle of the colourant, plus probably a small bottle of oil. Mix them as stated in the instructions, then break the tip of the nozzle off. Again, make sure that the contents are mixed evenly and don't leave the nozzle closed too long, unless you fancy a spontaneous bathroom redesign.
Some semi-permanent and especially 'Grade I' dyes often contain only one bottle, and with colour mousse you usually get a single pressure container (or pump action) bottle with a nozzle on it.

To prevent the areas beneath your hairline, forehead and ears from getting stained, apply petroleum jelly (or a similar cream) to those areas. There are special creams available, but Vaseline etc. do just fine. Just make sure you don't cover bits of your hair with it as well, as the dye won't work there otherwise.

Put a towel around your neck, put on your gloves and start to apply the mixture evenly, if you are just treating your roots, cover them first, otherwise distribute the product throughout your hair and make sure ever
ything is covered - it helps to have a bathroom cabinet with mirrors on both sides, so you can check the back of your head as well.

If you have splattered any dye around the bathroom, now is the time to clean it up - shower them off where you can, and use an alcohol-based toner on stubborn stains. Wipe off any large dabs of dye on your face/neck as well, but don't go wild on it as you might end up wiping it off your hair as well.

Leave the mixture on as stated in the instructions (or as you found out in the strand test), then wash it off - most dyes contain a shampoo, so lather your hair properly and wash off the foam. If your packet has conditioner in it, use it now and rinse it off until the water is nearly clear (with most dyes it won't ever get crystal clear, so don't do it for too long). Other dyes ask you to use your own shampoo and conditioner, so simply follow the instructions and then towel-dry your hair once the water is more or less clear.

Wash off the cream (if you used some) and use a cotton pad with an alcohol-based toner to wipe your ears, neck and forehead.

Look in the mirror and admire your work of art - should the result cause any shocking emotions, it would be handy to have your hairdresser's phone number ready now! ;-P


----- Aftercare -----

If your hair has become brittle through bleaching and dyeing it, you might want to try a hair cure, but most products I have used so far have left me hair very shiny and healthy-looking, just like I wanted it.

Some dyes (for example L'Oréal Récital) come with a handy bottle of colour conditioner, which you can use for the next few washes following the colouration, but there are also special 'colour lock-in' products available for colour-treated hair. They are supposed to keep the colour fresh for longer, but if you really want to keep it vibrant, you could also buy a bottle of 'colour enhancing' shampoo an
d conditioner that is designed to enhance natural hair colours - they are mostly available in 'Blonde', 'Red' and 'Brunette' and I usually use 'Hennara' (for red shades) every other time I wash my hair, and it definitely keeps the colour longer.

Another thing I do if I feel that my colour is fading, but I don't yet require a full re-dye: I buy one of those intensively red colour mousses that last about 24 washes - put over properly (and evenly) dyed hair, it stays much longer and revives the colour no end! :-)

So what are you waiting for? DIY hair dyes are not as difficult as many people think, and as long as you stick to the instructions (do NOT forget the gloves - my Mum once used Henna on my hair insisting she didn't need them - that was before the whole 'Henna Tattoo' fancy obviously), you should not be too shocked when you look in the mirror.

Just make sure the colour you have chosen really is the right one for you and your hair type, and off you go - if you end up with a result that really doesn't get up to the standards promised on the box, then come to DooYoo and tell us about it!

My hair is long finished and dry now (I took breaks from writing obviously, otherwise the bleach would've eaten away my hair by now!) and I am very happy with my Belle-Color 'Intensive Red #30' - if you know any good fiery red shades, let me know, I'm always eager to try new ones!

(c) 2001 Redhead23

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