Kalahari-Gemsbok National Park, Augrabies Falls, the Cederberg (Camping Sites in South Africa)

Member Name: reg_scrat

Product:	Camping Sites in South Africa
Date:	06/05/01 (176 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Stunning, Fun, Wonders of the World

Disadvantages: Requires Planning, Reservations?

Going to these beautiful places is like walking into a page of National Geographic magazine, and, to a certain extent, one of David Attenborough's nature documentaries.

These spots are all within striking distance from Capetown, the base of operations for most tourists in South Africa. Yet the vastness of Soth Africa means that Kalahari-Gemsbok (hereafter referred to as KG) is about 15 hours drive north or about 2 hours drive from Upington, the capital of the Northern Cape province.

KG, as some might know, is in the Kalahari Desert, an arid expanse covering parts of Botswana, Namibia and S. Africa. It is home to the Bushmen (who have recently had large portions of it returned to their direct control) and all manner of beautiful flora and fauna.

The entrance to the park (and the main campsite and hotel) is Twee Rivieren (Two Rivers). Entrance to the park and the camping fees are as I remember, inexpensive, reflecting the fondness of South Africans for their camping. As I said, for the less adventurous, there are air-conditioned cottages available. These, and the campsites depending on the time of year, require reservations. Two other campites (Nossob and Mata Mata) are located inside the park. While they reminded my of some desert outpost out of a Indiana Jones film, both are enclosed, possess all the usual camping facilities (showers, shop, petrol).

The park streches north from Twee Riverien, bordered by two dry river beds. Getting around the park couldn't be easier - the roads are well maintained and one can drive through the park admiring the simple beauty of the desert environment and the interesting (if not cagey) wildlife: sociable weavers, wild cats, Cape fox, meercats, wild squirrels, ostrich gemsbok, springbok, wildebeest, spring hare (like jackrabbits), spotted owls and goshawks to name a few. The best time to see lions, cheetahs and, if lucky, elephants, is at night. Special guided tours are operated at twilig
ht by experienced guides (with a stop for a little cocktail included). We spent quite along time admiring some lions - and then had to wait as they walked very slowly back along the road in front of us, delaying our return!

Best of all, however, is the stargazing. After they turn off the camp generators at 11, there is no light pollution in the sky for hundreds of miles. The Southern Cross is surprisingly hard to find - one must look for another constellation that points to it.

After spending three days in the Kalahari, I would proceed south to Augrabies Falls, another national park southwest of Upington. Pronounced (oh-chrob-bees), this waterfall on the Orange River (famous for its diamonds) is impressive. The geography is less arid, although resembles, in some places, the surface of Mars. Beautiful natural formations litter the park - which is, unlike the Kalahari, hikeable.

The campsite is even more plush than in the KG. It has a lovely restaurant, assorted shops, more cottages and camping space and a decent swimming pool. The best organized feature, however, is the 3-in-1 adventure. This is a self-guided combined 3 km canoe trip (so lovely 3 km is not nearly long enough), a 4 km hike (much easier than it sounds) and a 11 km mountain bike trek (bit more challenging, but definitely doable). This journey throughout the park gives you a chance to experience the unique landscape first hand. On the drive to the drop off point, we even saw a family of giraffes! After the adventure, it was nice to unwind in the pool and go for a proper meal (three gorgeous courses for about £12 and served to us by Park Rangers no less!).

My final recommendation is to go and camp in the Cederberg - a small mountain range about 3 hours north of
Cape Town. Less cushy than in the National Parks, the camping is nonetheless great. The scenery reminds me of Northern California - tall pines, jagged rock faces, blue skies and, as the name suggests, many
cedar trees. The hiking is of varying difficulty, but is first rate. And the mountain stream running through the campground is a refreshing reward after a hike. Some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen. I would very much like to go back someday.

So, in summary, when you go to South Africa, try to stray off the beaten track. Doing so in the Northern Cape is infinitely more safe than doing so farther to the east. Apart from South African driving - which is appalling bad and dangerous - I felt safe at all times. Be sure to bring a tent and sleeping bag - and rent a "bakkie" (pickup truck) to carry your gear in. Be a smart traveller - read ahead on things to do when travelling in the desert - always be prepared for the unexpected. The rewards, as I hope you have gathered from this, are well worth the trouble.

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