Product Type: Wall's Dessert / Yoghurts
Newest Review: ... crafted by an artisan Belgian chocolatier. The wrapper's a little bit more intricately designed than the normal ones but the first real s... more
A Magnum for grown-ups
Magnum Infinity Chocolate & Caramel
Member Name: sharper_fin
Magnum Infinity Chocolate & Caramel
Advantages: It's full strenght and gloriously intense
Disadvantages: Price, and it may be too intense for some
When the weather turns warm many of us like an ice cream to help us cool down a little. For many years Walls have been selling some of the classiest generally available ices around in their Magnum range. I've always been a big (in every sense) fan of Magnums so when I saw that they'd added a new one to the range - the Magnum Infinity - well, I just had to give it a try.
The Magnum infinity is the same basic shape and oval size as the classic Magnums that have been around for years, you know what they look like. But this one is a bit classier, a bit more special. It's as if the normal milk chocolate ones are aimed at people who like Dairy Milk or Galaxy chocolate, but this one's target audience is people who eat chocolate that's been hand crafted by an artisan Belgian chocolatier. The wrapper's a little bit more intricately designed than the normal ones but the first real surprise is when you open it. There's a massively intense chocolate smell that hits you like a wet leather towel. There's nothing subtle about it at all. It's the chocolatiest chocolate smell in all of chocolatedom.
The look of it too is somewhat different to a normal Magnum, While it's the same general size and shape, the outer coating is much, much darker, as if it were made of bitter 70% cocoa chocolate. It's lumpy and bumpy too. At first glance it looks as if it's covered in hazelnut chunks but that's not what they are. The chocolate has lots of little cocoa nibs embedded in it, just as some of the strongest fine dark chocolate has. When you bite into it it has a satisfying crunch - I think that the chocolate may be a little thicker than the standard Magnum lollies - and the taste is just as strong as the smell. It's a full strength, complex chocolate taste and those little nibs add a delightful bitter note and an unusual gritty texture to the already powerful chocolate. It's almost a connoisseur's dessert, like having a specific smoky malt whisky instead of a glass of Bells. It's most definitely not aimed at children.
After the shocking bitterness of the chocolate and the nibs comes the creaminess of the ice cream. It's a chocolate and caramel flavoured ice cream coated in a caramel syrup and it's gorgeous. The sweet creaminess fully complements the bitter harshness of the outer layer and it's this creamy flavour that stays in the mouth long after the strength of the dark chocolate has faded - unless you find a cocoa nib stuck in one of your teeth later, that is.
I guess that they figure a grown-up ice cream deserves a grown-up price tag too, because just one full size Magnum cost me £2 (July 2013). I know that they're not that expensive everywhere but that seems ridiculous to me. I'd already scanned it with the rest of my shopping before I saw the price, otherwise I wouldn't have bothered. I mean, it's nice and all but two quid for an ice cream? It's not THAT nice. For a mass produced treat they've done a great job in making it close to a proper hand-made delight though. Hats off to Walls for trying.
I would have given this four stars out of five, but it loses one for the price.
Oh, and for those looking for calorific detail and the like? It's chocolate and ice cream. If you're on a diet just don't go near it.
Summary: Some will love it, some will hate it, but it's too expensive to be just OK
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