The Granite Heart of Portugal (Beira)

Member Name: Praskipark

Product:	Beira
Date:	15/09/09 (75 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Beautiful mountain scenery and little old villages, excellent cuisine and wine

Disadvantages: Difficult to get to - easier by car

*The region is actually called Beiras as there used to be three separate divisions in the regions but those divisions are now obsolete and have been included as a whole, naming the region, Beiras.*

The region of Portugal known as the Beiras is often called the granite heart of the country. Sierra da Estrela is the highest mountain range in Portugal and cuts a diagonal line acoss the centre of the Beiras, surounded by even more mountains that reach out towards Spain. The landscapes here are some of the most beautiful in Iberia; imagine the high peaks coated white in winter like the icing of a christmas cake and then transformed into a canvas of purple during Spring when the heather and wild flowers begin to blossom. Sheep and goat farming has been the mean means of earning a living in these remote uplands, and local shepherds have turned necessity into a wonderful, pale creamy delicious cheese - Queijo da Serra Estrela - as well as other delicious cheeses. To the east of the region, inhabitants of the fortified villages battled with intruders as well as the environment. Money from the government has helped to restore many of these historic villages and in some of them you can stay and they are very comfortable. Once these beautiful villages were unaccessible but no longer due to the new motorways that have been carved into the stoney interior.

To the west of the Serra da Estrela, the Mondego river, Portugal's longest, rises in the mountains and winds its way through the high, wooded Dao country, flowing through the university city of Coimbra, capital of the Beiras, before entering the sea in a wide estuary at Figueira da Foz. The region of Bairrada famous for its wine and the capital, Mealhada, known for its suckling pig both sit centrally upon the hilly coastal stretch, sloping down towards flatter, sandier land and the sea. Then it becomes an almost straight coastline of golden beaches, broken in the north by long sandbanks and lagoons. The Beiras used to be divided into different areas and in many old geography books you still see boundaries for Beira Litoral (Coastal), Beira Baixa (lower), and Beira Alta (upper). I should think the older generation living in the Beiras think in terms of the ancient divisions still but they are now obsolete.

Okay, so if you want to explore the Beiras - where should you start? I would start in my husband's favourite area - the south west; Portugal's longest beach at, Figueira da Foz at the mouth of the River Mondego. This is a very lively and bustling seaside town, often crowded in summer, with a casino, marina and high waves for surfing. From here drive up the coast where the beaches are wild and untamed especially Tocha and Mira.

Finally you arrive at Aveiro.

Aveiro is sometimes known as the Venice of Portugal; a city dominated by canals and surrounded by beaches, lagoons and salt flats. It was once a wealthy port but a great storm in 1575 left in its wake a sand bar nearly fifty kilometres long between the city and Atlantic. Today, it is mostly famous for its moliceiros; the brightly coloured, gondola shaped boats that are always parked along the main canal, and its wildlife of the lagoons. In August the city explodes with life to celebrate the Estuary Feast, featuring boat races, folk dancing, and a competition for the best painted moliceiro boat.

Aveiro is a pretty city especially at night when it's beaming with light as you walk across the many sandy beaches. As far as museums and historical buildings are concerned, there aren't as many as in some Portuguese cities but still enough to keep you occupied for a few hours.

Costa Nova is a pretty seaside and surfing resort with some good fish restaurants. Exteriors painted in bright stripey colours and bursting at the seams with customers especially in the summer and at weekends.

The wine region of Bairraida sits in the midst of the flat to gently hilly, wooded lowlands just in from the beaches. An obvious stop for lunch is in Mealhada. Why? Because of the leitao; a suckling pig and the only dish served in the town. You will see an abundance of signs lining the main roads into the town. Not a good place for piglets to be born. Leitao is a traditional dish where the piglets are threaded whole onto a wooden pole but nowadays most poles are made from stainless steel. The roasting is done in a wood-fired oven. Several times during the cooking the leitao is removed from the oven to chill a little. The fat is wiped off with a cloth and it may be basted with cool white wine. This adds to the crspiness and elasticity of the skin. When the pig is finally cooked to perfection its skin should be the colour of toasted hazlenuts. Tradtionally the pig was served with slices of orange and potatoes boiled in their skins, and a small fresh salad but of course like other traditional dishes in Portugal it is now served with chips. Wine cellars in the town will aid your digestion - red or white both highly recommended.

Portugal's third city and a beautiful city at that is not to be missed. I will only mention this briefly as it is a city that needs reviewing as a whole and not part of a region. Coimbra is the birthplace of not only six kings but the Portuguese language. Here is where 'true' Portuguese is spoken and not the Algarvian twang I speak. The seat of Portugal's first university and one of the oldest in the world. It is the region's principal city and was the country's capital under the first Portuguese dynasty, until Lisbon was bestowed the honour in the 13th century. The city is historically beautiful with churches and wonderful old buildings related to the university.

The Church and Monastery of Santa Cruz is historically the most interesting building in the city. It contains the tombs of Portugal's first two kings, Afonso Henriques and his son Sancho I, the lovely two-storey Cloister of Silence and the sacristy with rare paintings. You can find this building in Praca 8 de Maio.

Opening Times: Mon-Sat 9am until noon, 2 - 5.45 and 4-6 on Sunday.

Coimbra's students reallly dictate what happens in the city and there are always festivities at most times of the year. So don't be surprised at the end of the Academic year if you are walking around the hilly streets to see the city explode into colour and song at the Burning of the Ribbons. This is the annual students' bash, a week long frenzy of partying that starts with a romantic serenade on the steps of the old cathedral, culminating with a lively parade through the streets.

Restaurants in the evening are a lot of fun in Coimbra. They have a very old fashioned student feel to them - like something from the 60s and 70s.

The river Mondego twists and turns through the city's historic centre.

A short drive southwest across the river lies Conimbriga, a Roman site of impressive proportions and one that in its glory days commanded the great empire's route across Iberia. The site is a sprawling 13 hectares and pre-dates the Romans, who developed it into a thriving military outpost, one of the largest in the Iberian peninsula. There's quite a lot to see, including the baths, villas, patterned pavements and a hot and cold water system.

Site is open from the middle of March to 15 September.

North of Coimbra at the northernmost tip of the Serra do Bucaco is the big, fragrant and exotic forest of Bucaco. A vast walled forest planted in the 17th century by Carmelite monks. The landscape is full of native and exotic trees and shrubs. Definitely worth a visit - a really spooky feeling when the cloud is low and enters the forest over the tree tops. Separate review to follow later.

Viseu, capital of the Dao country is one of Portugal's most charming towns and one I have visited often and have a soft spot for. The only damn nuisance is the outer ring road and confusing roundabouts. But if you manage to conquer it and get into the town you won't be disappointed. Even though Viseu has the feel of a small country town it is awash with real treasures; art, palaces and churches. The heart and soul of the city is its cathedral which stands at the highest point at the middle of the town. Behind a solid twin-towered facade lies an elegantly simple Gothic interior with a fine Renaissance double cloister.

Alongside the cathedral, a grim looking former bishops' palace houses the even grimmer 15th to 16th century art painted by the 'Great Vasco' and his contemporary Gaspar Vaz. Portuguese think his paintings are wonderful but they do nothing for me - they are so drab.

One thing I did enjoy when I visited Viseu in 2007 was a Gourmet Festival. This is when top Portuguese chefs get together and spend three days inventing cuisine from the Beiras. Demonstrations are given and you can take part in interactive dinners where visitors can volunteer to help the chefs cook and then a somelier will choose wines to match the dishes and explain the matches and his choices. Throughout the three days there is more food and wine matching and a Gourmet Food Circus which is a finger food dinner with specialities from the region. There is live music and opportunities to speak to all the chefs. The event is held at the Solar do Vinho do Dao in Viseu in May. I thought it was a top notch event and enjoyed the matching of foods and wines and the Food Circus. I love eating with my fingers - always think it is much more fun.

Heading away from Viseu through the forested hills and valleys, southwards the landscape becomes mountainous, with high peaks slowly coming into view. In winter the landscape is truly beautiful, draped in white like the purest of silk wedding gowns. This landscape draws skiers and tobogganists. In spring as the snow thaws the brooks and springs overflow with ice cold sparkling water.

The National Park of the Serra da Estrela covers 1,011 square metres and is the country's largest protected area. At least a hundred metres of granite forms a great barrier across the region.

Set at the foot of the mountain is Seia, a bright and airy town whose wide streets are lined with shops selling the local cheese made from ewe's milk and believe me this cheese is one of the best I have ever tasted. The best time to buy and taste the cheese is early in the year when the cheese is at its gloopiest. It is made mainly from November to March from the winter milk of sheep grazing only in the Serra da Estrela. The real thing should be a squat, yellow rinded cylinder, from which the top is sliced so you can spoon out the creamy, whitish-yellow cheese. Eaten with rye bread in these surroundings is a rare treat. Watch out for fakes as there are several dubious cheeses on the market pretending to be the real cheese from the Serra da Estrela. Sheepskin goods can also be bought from shops and markets in this town.

To reach the small stone tower that marks Portugal's highest point (mainland Portugal) you have to take the steep road that reaches Torre which is at the very top of the mountain range. Afterwards, the onward trip is a roller coaster ride of hairpin bends and head reeling views as the road descends sharply to the pretty town of Covilha, a perfect base from which to explore. With its steep narrow streets and spectacular mountain views, Covilha is the hub of Portugal's woollen industry. In Moorish times it was a thriving cloth centre and today's visitors have plenty of opportunity to shop for gloves, jackets, slippers and other woollen items. I once bought a jumper from this town because I loved the colour of blue more than anything. It was like a deep Prussian blue but I hardly ever wore the jumper because it made me itch too much.

Guarda is on the north east flank of the Serra da Estrela, quite a bulky city but still woth a stopover. There is a great campsite here that is run by really friendly staff and he bar owner is very charming and lots of fun. He likes to get involved with the music and is always on the dancefloor and leaves you to help yourself to drinks. Very trusting. The campsite is an Orbitur run site and is just outside the main town. Over the years Guarda has expanded but because it is situated on a high plateau it is still quite spectacular. It was founded in 1197 and many parts of the original walls are still standing, including three of the main entrances. The city has a fine cathedral if a little composing and made from granite. Gothic in style and ornamented later with twisted Manueline columns that are popular all over Portugal. Some Renaissance details, including the large and intricate altar piece are worth a peek.

The last town I recommend is Castelo Branco. The town occupies a low hill at the centre of flat lands and it is only about 18 kilometres away from the Spanish border. Broad avenues and large squares give the town a pleasant air of prosperity. The town's top attraction is the Jardim Episcopal, an arrangement of little granite statues amidst trimmed boxed hedges and orange trees.

I know I must say that every region of Portugal is famous for its traditional foods. That's because it's true. The Beiras region is no different. Some of Portugal's finest gastronomic experiences await you in the Beiras. I' ve already mentioned the suckling pig and the Queijo da Serra Estrela cheese and I must not forget its by product - ricotta which tastes wonderful eaten with pumpkin jam. The mountains are filled with game and wild duck are plentiful on the marshes around Aveiro. Seafood and mussels are excellent along the coast and eels, elvers and lampreys are freshly caught from the rivers. Portuguese have very sweet tooths so you can't escape without eating something sweet. Honey from the mountains south east of Coimbra is quite expensive to buy but delicious to eat on freshly baked bread. There are various cakes made with the honey from the region and over in Covilha cherries and peaches are picked to make pastries and tarts. But it woon't be long before you are tempted by the local eggy concoctions. Tigadela is a lemony baked custard and in Coimbra you can buy little curd cheese tarts set with the aid of lots of egg yolks. Viseu has its famous egg sweets and in Aveiro its oves moles, syrupy, cooked egg yolks oozing from little boats or barrels. Even if these are too sweet they are very pretty and colourful to look at and make excellent gifts to take back home.

Another excellent gift is of course a bottle of Bairrada wine. In one part of the Beiras just after you have passed the flatlands the trees will suddenly be outnumbered by vines growing in the soil which is really a yellow clay. Barro actually means clay and is probably the origin of the region's name. The main grape used is Baga, pronounced 'bugger'. When it ripens, it makes some of Portugal's best reds. Bairrada is also a white wine region and personally I think this is the better of the two. Both red and white are sold in shops and supermarkets in the region but it is more fun to visit a quinta, taste the wine and purchase a box or two.

That about covers the Beiras region and the Serra da Estrela mountain range. One of my favourite places to visit especially after Christmas when the weather turns cold and snowy and the granite heart becomes white and frozen until spring.

Summary: An impressive part of Portugal