Heaven on Earth (Dalyan, Turkey)

Member Name: yackers1

Product:	Dalyan, Turkey
Date:	03/10/09 (111 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Gorgeous, quiet, loads to do, great food, great people.....Amazing

Disadvantages: None for me

Whilst waiting for the specific reviews to get in to the Dooyoo catalogue I thought I had better give a brief (or not as the case may be) overview of Dalyan;

****Location****

Dalyan is a town in the Mugla province. It is located between Marmaris and Fethiye on the South West coast of Turkey. Dalyan means fishing weir in Turkish. Fish swim from the sea to Lake Koceygiz to spawn and when they return to the sea they are caught in the "Dalyans".Life in Dalyan is centred around the Dalyan Cayi (stream/river).

****Caretta Caretta****

Caretta Caretta is the endangered loggerhead turtle and Isutzu Beach, just down the river from Dalyan is a nesting site for these gorgeous creatures. Everything in Dalyan appears to be centred around the loggerhead turtles. From the large turtle statues in the main square to numerous restaurants called Caretta Caretta (yes, there are numerous, which I thought was a bit strange), to numerous wooden carvings to t-shirts with turtles on them. Turtles are everywhere in Dalyan and the people of the town really push them hard to the tourists.

There are many turtle watching trips and if you are lucky then you may see a loggerhead in the wild, however more often than not the tourists come back disappointed. There are other green turtles all down the river and these can be seen any time of the day and without paying a tour operator money to take you out in a boat. Just go to Ceyhan, a restaurant on the river where the owners feed the turtles, which keeps them coming back much to the delight of the tourists.

During our trip we were fortunate enough to see a loggerhead turtle whilst sitting on a dolmus boat waiting to go from the beach back to Dalyan. The only guarantee of seeing a loggerhead is to go to the turtle sanctuary at the beach, which is a make shift centre that looks after "sick" loggerhead turtles. All the turtles in the sanctuary have been hit by boat propellers, which creates some real damage to them. It is strange that the thing that wants and needs the turtles to attract the tourists is actually harming them.

****The evil eye****

Like the loggerhead turtle the evil eye is a symbol of Dalyan that can be found on jewellery (including bracelets, pendants and cufflinks), painted on plates (both ceramic and glass), painted on wooden statues, printed on t-shirts, printed on shot glasses, printed on mugs and painted on dream catchers amongst many other trinkets. It seems that if there is enough room to accommodate the eye then it will be put on.

The eye is meant to be a good luck charm that warns off evil. I am unsure whether the evil eye is specific to Dalyan or whether it is something that is popular in other parts of Turkey, since I have only ever been to Dalyan.


****Accommodation****

There are many hotels, villas and apartments in and around the town available to rent out, however most are right on the outskirts of town. The accommodation on the fringes of town are a fair hike from the action, over an half an hour walk which doesn't sound much but considering the fierce midday sun and 30+ degree Celsius temperatures it is not a comfortable walk. In these places taxis or your own transport is a must have. There are loads of places to hire cars or mopeds, but after witnessing the way people drive around Dalyan, and their general attitude there is no way I would recommend it and walking around can be dangerous enough.

We like everything close to hand and the ability to be able to walk to the restaurants and to bars. It is nice to go out, have a nice meal and a few drinks and then walk it off strolling back to the hotel. For these reasons we only ever stay in the middle of town and I can highly recommend the Hotel Metin.

Staying in the middle of town suits us but I appreciate it may not be suitable for families or those who like villas with their own private pools. For this type of accommodation you have to stay on the fringes of the town.

The price of accommodation varies depending on whether you are staying in a hotel, villa, bed and breakfast or whatever else. Staying in Turkey is much cheaper than other sun type destinations and whilst the rooms may be basic I have always found them clean and containing everything you are likely to need.

****Things to do****

There is plenty to do in and around Dalyan and you will never get bored. Whether you like lazing by the pool or on the beach soaking up the rays, are an adrenaline junkie, like water sports or like a bit of history and culture there is something to do. It really is a case of whatever floats your boat.

Doing things in Dalyan doesn't have to cost money either as it is possible to spend days wandering around the town soaking up the culture, browsing through different shops and retail outlets, sitting by the river and watching the fish or admiring the Lycian rock tombs and turtle watching, or just lazing by the pool it is possible to keep your wallet in your pocket.

Should you become 'stuck' there are many different tour operators offering excursions in and around Dalyan, as well as further a field. Whilst there are many different tour operators they all offer the same trips, although the experience will be slightly different with each one. For example, one of the most popular trips is the 12 Island cruise around Gocek bay. The price varies from 15 YTL right up to 85 YTL, which is quite a large difference. The first time I went to Dalyan I went on the 15 YTL trip (I know it's tight but I wasn't earning much back then) and the boat we went on was of the plastic double decker type that was loaded up with as many tourists as they could squeeze on board. You had to do battle for the sun deck, battle for lunch, put up with screaming kids (and parents) etc. etc. Despite going to exactly the same bays as the more expensive trips it was not a pleasant experience. During my last visit we wnet on the most expensive trip and it was totally different. There were 14 of us on board a gorgeous wooden sailing gullet. We had our own sun lounger, our own place in the shade, plenty to eat (and the food was delicious) and it was very peaceful and quiet. It was a magnificent trip. I appreciate not every one can afford the expensive trip (especially if there are children to pay for as well) but it is worth looking around for a middle of the road deal.

As a word of warning I should point out that not all tour operators are the same. Some are excellent and some are absolutely useless. The largest ones include Kaunos Tours and Ozalp, and after using both of these (Kaunos Tours more than Ozalp) I can say I didn't have any problems with neither of these, nor did anyone I spoke to have problems with these. Ertac, on the other hand are awful and failed to turn up on the one excursion I booked with them, and many others had the same problem. Getting the money back was also a real chore and if it wasn't for our hotel receptionist I would have been out of pocket.

Personally I wouldn't use anyone other than Kaunos Tours and whilst they are not the cheapest (they are still very reasonable) they are reliable and fun. In addition, if they are going to be late then they always call your hotel so you know exactly where you are with them.

There are many other trips, and the most popular include:

i) Sakklikent gorge
ii) Many different types of boat trips
iii) Jeep safaris
iv) Mountain biking
v) Trekking through the Amber Forrest
vi) Trips to Turtle beach
vii) Trips to different markets (including Koceygiz, Fethiye and Dalyan)
viii) Trips to the mud baths and hot springs
ix) Crabbing trips
x) Fishing trips
Sea Kayaking
xi)White water rafting
xii) Trips to Kaunos (which I have also reviewed)

The above is not an exhaustive list and there is much, much more in addition. The price of excursions vary but all of them represent great value for money (lunch and transfers are usually included) and are much cheaper than a similar excursion in the UK.

****Night life****

During the hours of darkness all market stalls open up, the shops remain open, bars and restaurants open and the town really comes alive. The only part that seems to sleep is the river as most of the boats are moored up until the next morning. I say most because there is the occasional boat that still travels up and down the river, but these are few and far between.

Dalyan is not like any club land resort. I have only found one nightclub in the town, but I'm guessing there are others. That said, it is not like Playa De Las Americas etc. and you do not find drunk people wandering the streets either throwing up or looking for a fight, touts trying to sell you fake sunglasses/wallets and watches or ladies of the night trying to get you up an alley for lord knows what. Dalyan is not that scummy and does not attract the sort of people that enjoys these types of holiday thank goodness.

The atmosphere at night is electric but not intimidating in any way and includes quiet drinks in bars whilst enjoying the music, strolling the streets and perusing the many market stalls and souvenir shops or simply walking beside the river. Tourists tend to call it a night fairly early on, which means you are not going to suffer from sleep deprivation like some resorts, but if you hang around late enough you will also witness the locals playing dominoes and drinking raki.

****Eating out****

Turkish food is very tasty and the ingredients are always fresh. Oil plays a massive part and everything is caked in oil, which is fine unless you have a problem with fats. The food consists of meat (except for pork), fish, various breads and salads.

There are loads of restaurants in Dalyan and all of them serve traditional Turkish food. When I go on holiday I like to soak up as much culture as possible and eat like the locals do. I am not one for the full English breakfast or burgers and chips for dinner, since I can get these at home.

Compared to England eating out is not that expensive with the average price for a main course being £5 - £8. I have been told many times that you used to get a 3 course meal for under £5, therefore now it is very expensive, but I think it is still great value for money.

You do get touted for every restaurant you walk past but all you have to do is say "no thanks" and carry on walking. It is not like Tenerife where you get bullied into restaurants by mean and aggressive touts, which is a good thing.

Be careful when eating out because, whilst the Turkish waiters never lie, they are economical with the truth. You will be asked if you want water with every meal but unlike in England it is not free. In addition, you are never told the price of the water unless you ask and it is always very expensive. I got caught out on the first night with a small bottle costing 8 YTL (as much as 1 litre of Effes and 10 times more than you would pay for the same thing in a supermarket). In addition you will be offered a caraf of wine. Always ask and don't just say "yes" like many people seem to do as when I asked I found it cost 50 YTL, which was more than both our main courses and two beers and two glasses of wine.

****Drinks****

The local beer, Effes, is a lovely pilsner type lager and it is very reasonable. The price is 4 YTL - 5 YTL (depending on if you are near the river or not) so the price is uniform throughout the town. Do not spend anymore than this. Wine is expensive, at around 6 YTL per glass, and is not that nice. Even the local wine is expensive and tastes like vinegar. A traditional Turkish drink is raki and water. This has a very strong aniseed taste and is very potent even though it doesn't taste that strong.

There are other more popular drinks, such as premium lagers found in the UK, and various imported spirits, but these are exceptionally expensive and not worth the extra, especially when the local brew is so good.

****The people****

The people of Dalyan realise that tourism brings in money and all of them fully embrace it. Tourists are well looked after and the people of Dalyan can't do enough for you, even if you are not spending money with them. If you are lost or looking for something in particular then ask anyone, all are willing to help. If you say hi to anyone you will always get a response and with a huge grin. It is a warm, welcoming and very friendly place.

****Conclusion****

Dalyan is a quiet and peaceful place that has captured my heart. I love everything about it from the food, to the restaurant, to the local beer, to the people, to the scenery, to the river, to the atmosphere. I love everything about it and it really has captured a place in my heart as it has provided so many great memories. Everyone you speak to seems to have the same opinion, although it only seems to attract the sort of people that like places like Dalyan. When I went to Spain there were people from all social classes, all backgrounds, all age groups, all of whom had different interests and aspirations and wants from their holiday. Consequently, some people really enjoyed the resort, some hated it and many were in different to it. This does not seem to happen in Dalyan.

If you are looking for somewhere with a wild night life, lots of English food and drink, loads of night clubs etc. then Dalyan is not the place for you. If, however, you are after a more sedate holiday and enjoy a bit of culture, great food and drink and chilling out on some excellent excursions then Dalyan may be the place you are looking for.

Summary: A Turkish town that has really captured my heart