Lao, the landlocked nation, does have beaches after all! (Don Det (Laos))

Member Name: Pablo_Sevilla

Product:	Don Det (Laos)
Date:	01/06/09 (37 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Very pretty, kiyaking, a nice beach, great and convienient place to relax, mekong river dolphins!

Disadvantages: Some guesthouses can try to overcharge for food and drink, which is very rare for Lao.

Don Det is a river island located in Southern Lao on the border with Cambodia.

Don Det is actually just one island out of about 4000 on this part of the Mekong. At no other part of the Mekong does the river run so wide. Here it's a few kilometres from one side to the next.

To get here from Pakse, the region capital, it takes about 3 hours by minibus, a little longer by local transport. Coming from Stung Treng in Cambodia takes about 2 hours by minibus or more once you take into account waiting times at immigration at the border where you can get visas for both countries on arrival.

Any minibus or tuk tuk will drop you off at a small beach from which you have to get a longtail boat the remaining 10 minutes to Don Det. There is a fixed price of 20,000kip each way, you have to pay this to get there so there is no point in trying to haggle. Just pay up or swim!

Once on Don Det you can choose from plenty of budget accommodation running down the Eastside of the riverbank. Pretty much everything here is geared towards backpackers and electricity only runs with electrical generators until about 11pm. After that the island is pitch black. A torch is absolutely essential!

The cheapest bungalows start at around 20,000 kip in low season, which is cheap even by Lao standards. Generally think no more than about 4 or 5$ for a double.

Many of the riverside guesthouse bungalows have hammocks where you can watch the world go by on the river. Most guesthouses also double as resturant/bars. There is even a cheap Indian resturants that's pretty okay! The bars can serve some pretty strong cocktails and buckets.

Many Guesthouses sell very cheap marijuana and do not mind guests smoking discreetly in the hammocks by the river but advise to be weary of the very occasional policeman who will wander on the main dirt track running down the island. Remember it's illegal in Lao to be caught in possession of drugs, many Laotion people do not like it and although you will only have to pay a fine of $3-500 for possession of marijuana or opium (that will go straight into the policemans pocket) if caught, you should think very carefully before buying. If you do choose to buy, do it discreetly away from locals in your guesthouse.

Aside from chilling (or getting stoned) in your hammock and just enjoying the life on the river go by there are a few options for the more active;

You can hire a bicycle (1$) and cycle to Don Khong, the neighbouring island, which is acessible by a bridge over the river. On the way you can see the ruins of the only railway the French built here in Lao to transport timber from one side of the island to the other and then onto boats and onto Phnom Penh in Cambodia further south. There is a small steam engine and some railway lines rusting away.

But towards the south of Don Khong is a series of rapids and waterfalls that are quite impressive though in wet season it's just a raging torrent of brown muddy monsoon water and not so pretty!

Then there is a stretch of beach that is actually very pleasant in dry season (strong currents and submerged in wet season, though still nice) and a great place to swim. It's usually very quiet and there is a singular resturant open selling noodle soup and cold drinks/beer Lao if you get hungry, though this was swept away during the floods in 2008. It may well have been rebuilt by now. Just across the river is Cambodia! ou are right on the border here and if you check your mobile phone it should say 'Welcome to Cambodia'!

It's also possible to arrange a longtail boat from here to take you out on the river to go River Dolphin spotting. The freshwater dolphins are becoming increasing rare and it's really 50-50 if you will see them or not but even if you don't it's a nice couple of hours on the Mekong anyway and you could pursuade the fishermen to stay on the river to watch the sunset.

Finally, kiyaks are available for hire at about 3-5$ a day. You can hire a guide but in dry season it's pretty safe to go alone, just make sure you get a life jacket and don't go near the waterfalls further south or stray across into Cambodia! Kiyaking is a great way to visit other islands in the delta if you are feeling fit! Many of the islands don't get many visitors at all so the sight of kiyaks landing on the island drives to kids crazy and you'll be greeted by flocks of curious and over excited kids!

Don Det is a great place to relax before heading into Cambodia or vice versa. It's definitely worth making the trip this far south because there is enough to do for a few days even if you aren't looking for some R&R in a hammock!

Recommended.

Summary: Very chilled out place, even by Lao standards, which is saying something!