Addicted to Kranjsterdam? (Kranj)

Member Name: fizzywizzy

Product:	Kranj
Date:	27/01/06 (230 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Historic old town, compact, good for walkers

Disadvantages: Expensive shops, some museums don't have English captions

"Oh, Kranjsterdam, lovely" my Slovenian friend Tanja said suspiciously,when I told her we were thinking of going up the town of Kranj, about 40 minutes north of the capital Ljubljana. (Note - you don't pronounce the letter "j" in Kranj)Alas, the reason it has attracted this epithet is not that the town has a network of quaintly appealing waterways, but because of its reputation as being home to a high number of drug addicts. Like the love-hate relationship between my fellow geordies and our neighbours in Sunderland, the people of Ljubljana don't have a good word to say about the people of Kranj.

While it is true that Kranj has, by Slovene standards, a high number of unemployed young people, you don't really see any sign of that as a tourist (except for one piece of grafitti on the side of a medieval building proclaiming "Kranjsterdam" in spray-painted letters).

Nestled at the foot of Slovenia's Julian Alps, Kranj is an attractive and historic town although it is little known outside central Europe despite its historical importance as a major trading centre. Today it sits on the London - Istanbul transcontinental rail line which really puts it at the heart of Europe but it has been a town based on commerce for centuries and is well known for its trade fairs which it still plays host to today. (This probably explains the number of conference centres in the area)

The easiest way to reach Kranj is by car or bus, whether you are coming from the capital or from one of the popular ski resorts to the north-west. Kranj has a railway station but it is at the bottom of a steep and winding hill which may deter people. When we looked down from the top of the hill on which old Kranj is perched, we felt smugly pleased that we'd taken the bus from Ljubljana which drops you off in the town centre.

What most people will want to see is, rather conveniently, arranged in a square in the centre of which is a monument to Kranj's most celebrated son, the national poet France Preseren who was born, lived and died in the town. The statue of him was designed by Jose Plecnik (Slovenia's most famous architect and designer) and is quite a monstrous piece, looming over you as you pose for a photograph!

But back to the town. History buffs should make the tourist information office their first stop because there you can get a free map and booklet which provides information corresponding to the numbered signs on various buildings around the old town. Even if you don't get the map, the signs on the buildings are also in English so you can at least learn what they are.

The old town stands on a tiny escarpment which overlook two rivers and the three streets meet at the tip which is known as "Pungert". Here you can either enjoy the view or you can take the winding walk down to the water - taking care not to go too fast and end up battered and bruised. There's a defence tower here (understandably given the views) which is worh a climb if its open but what you should really see is the paintings in the "Plague Church" - don't worry you won't catch anything , it was built during the plague in the fifteenth century.

The Preseren Memorial Museum is hard to miss but, if like us, your Slovenian language skills are somewhat lacking you'll not stay long. Its much better to visit the cemetry in which he is buried - "Preseren Grove" - it's really more like a park with several intersting monuments including the first anti-fascist monument in the world which wa erected in the early part of the twentieth century.

Kranj has several churches but the only one of any special beauty or interest is the Church of St Cantius which stands in Glavni trg, nest to the statue of Preseren. I believe the early part is a Gothic church but it has been embellished over the years. Look out for the St John fountain along with its little sculpted octopus!

Elsewhere it is possible simply to stroll the streets admiring the gothic and renaissance townhouses without really needing to "do" anything. Kranj has a large number of galleries selling contemporary art alongside more traditional landscapes and has an air of a rather prosperous town despite its dubious moniker. Depending on your preference you could splurge on silk underwear, speciality foods, handmade shoes or designer hats. Window shoppers needn't be disappointed - Kranj has some of the most attractive and unusual window displays I have ever seen. Following most of central and eastern Europe the displays all featured pumpkins and squash when we were there - whatever the shop was selling!

We visited on a weekday out of the main tourist season so found the town full of elderly people or young mothers. (I presume the younger people were all at work) which gave it a relaxed and gentle feeling. We dived into a basement coffee shop to warm up and found the place full of gossiping old ladies, though I have to say they all smiled and said hello - we must have been something of an unusual sight in November. Kranj has plenty of places like this along with several gostilna - a traditional style pub/restaurant which serves Slovenian fare at great prices.

Away from the old town Kranj is like any other central European town - it could just as easily be in Austria or Germany. It has a big sports centre, a modern shopping centre and academic insitutions but it also has a sense of space and of honest activity. The sort of town for people who like to get out there and do things. I can't quite explain it but there's something about Kranj which makes you want to get out and enjoy the great outdoors.

It's real walking country and you don't have to go far out of town to get into some lovely countryside - I can highly recommend Brdo Castle, best described as a country park where you can take part in fishing, horseriding or cycle as well as exploring the grounds or the sumptuous house (where you can also stay if you are sufficiently wealthy!).

Kranj has only one hotel proper but the parts of interest are so small that only a day at most is necessary to see everything. Its location means it is easily reached from where most tourists stay anyway. I would recommend Kranj to adults rather than to families. Its charms lie in looking rather than doing which I feel wouldn't really appeal to children - even the shopping is adult-directed!

In short, Kranj would make an interesting half day excursion (perhaps a day with regular coffee stops and a leisurely lunch). A charming town which deserves to be better known.

Summary: History and the great outdoors - the appealing combination of Kranj