The Polish Manchester (Lodz)

Member Name: Praskipark

Product:	Lodz
Date:	20/11/08 (154 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Great Art Nouveau Architecture in an Industrial City

Disadvantages: Maybe a Bit Rough Around the Edges For Some

Lodz may look like it is pronounced Lodz, but it most certainly isn't. Think of it as Woodge, and three hundred years ago a visit here would have produced the sight of little more than one man and his dog. In terms of age Lodz is one of the youngest cities in the country, and a direct product of the Industrial Revolution. And while Lodz cannot boast the twee charisma of Prague and Krakow a scratch of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the countries finest after dark venues.

A Little History
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After much rapid industrial development Lodz has surpassed much older town's and is today Poland's largest urban centre after Warsaw. Although the first account of its existence dates from the 14th century, it remained obscure until the beginning of the 19th century. In the 1820's the government of the Congress Kingdom of Poland undertook to industrialise the country, and Lodz was included in the plans, subsequently undergoing an unprecedented economic boom. Enterprising industrialists - Jews, Germans and Poles - rushed in to build textile mills; following them, workers flooded into the city. The arrival of the steam engine in 1838 and the abolition of custom barriers to Russia in 1850 were two milestones in the city's growth. Palaces and great houses of the mill owners multiplied, as well as extensive suburbs for the workers. Within a century, by the outbreak of World War 1, Lodz had grown a thousandfold, reaching a population of half a million.

After World War 1 the city's growth slowed down, mainly because of the loss of the huge eastern market, but industrial sectors such as machinery and chemistry continued to expand. In 1930's ethnic Poles made up only half the population; the rest were mostly Jews and Germans. Having escaped major destruction during World War II, Lodz continues as Poland's textile capital, the Polish Manchester, as it is sometimes called. Although ailing now through lack of investment, it is still responsible for roughly half of Poland's textile production.

Industry apart, Lodz is also the Polish Hollywood. After the Film School and the film studios had been established here, the city became the national centre for cinematography. Most of the great figures of Polish cinema, such as Polanski, Skolimowski, Wajda and Kieslowski, started out in Lodz.

Overview
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At first sight, Lodz is sprawling, grubby and unpleasant: however this is only half the picture. There isn't a single city building older than 200 years but there is an enormous wealth of 19th century architecture. Visible on the facades of the buildings and inside the mill owners' residences is an extraordinary hotchpotch of styles of different epochs and artistic trends, not often seen in such a concentration. The decoration of the palaces reached the height of fashionable and snobbish extravagance. Though it's not always in good taste, and purists may be uncomfortable, it is certainly impressive. Look out for the amazing examples of Art Nouveau. Furthermore, the city has the best museum of modern art in Poland, and an active cultural life.

How to get there
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Lodz lies some 140 kilometres west of Warsaw and was easily accessed by train - that was until repairs to improve the tracks began. When work finishes Lodz will be within an hour's reach of Warsaw. For the time being though it is taking up to three hours by train. If arriving by train choose a train that arrives at Lodz Fabryczna as it is closest to the city centre.

There is an international bus service to London, Hamburg, France, Paris and Prague.

Flights from Liverpol, London, Nottingham, Edinburgh and Dublin arrive at Lodz and also you can fly from Vienna, Copenhagen, Stockholm and other Polish cities. There are possibly flights from other European cities but these listed are the ones I have flown from and used before.

Things to See
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Lodz developed around ul Piotrkowska, its four kilometre main axis. It is in the area that most of the surviving 19th century architecture can be seen. Most museums too, are on or nearby this artery, and in some cases they are installed in old palaces (one in an old mill).

The Historical Museum of Lodz
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This is situated at ul Ogrodowa 15, and is housed in the palace of the Poznanski family, who were among the wealthiest Jewish clans in the city. Although the historical display is not inspiring, the palace itself makes up for that, especially its spectacular dining hall. I recommend going into the garden to check out the back of the building as it is very ornate. Part of the interior is given over to an exhibition dedicated to Artur Rubinstein, the world famous pianist of Jewish origin born in Lodz. On display are photos of the artist, posters, records, documents and so on.

The museum is open from 10am to 2pm but on Wednesday it opens from 2 to 6pm and closed on Monday.

Muzeum Sztuki
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This is situated three blocks south from the Historical Museum at ul Wieckowskiego 36, and it is another palace of the Poznanski family. Here you should pay more attention to the museum collection itsef: a wide selection of 20th century Polish and International painting including a lot of contemporary artists. There are works by Picasso, Chagall and Ernst.

Opening hours vary, but mostly open from noon until 4pm. Monday it's closed.

BWA Art Gallery
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Nearby at Wolczanska 31/33 is the old residence of Kindermann, a German industrialist. There are temporary exhibitions so you never know what you will see but the building itself is well worth a look. Built in 1903, it is a handsome Art Nouveau villa.

The Museum of Ethnography and Archaelogy
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This museum is situated at Plac Wolnosci 14. Its ethnographic section is worth a visit principally for its local woodcarving. The archaelogical section has finds from central Poland from the Stone age to the Middle Ages. Completing the collection are a couple of models of early settlements.

Again the opening times vary but it should be open Tuesday to Friday from 11am to 5pm, and on Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 3pm.

Textile Museum
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At the far southern end of ul Piotrkowska is the Textile Museum. Arranged inside one of the oldest mills, dating from the 1830s, it houses an amazing collection of textile machinery ranging from the early looms to contemporary devices. Fabrics, clothing and other objects related to the textile industry are on the first floor. The upper two floors are devoted to temporary exhibitions.

A new open air museum has been added and was officially opened this year at the end of September but when I visited was not finished. It is designed to replicate a typical Lodz street in the 1820's. On both sides of the street there are three authentic workman's homes and workshops, a historical church dating from 1848 and an Art Nouveau summer house. Here in the grounds you can see examples of most types of municipal timber architecture that are typical for Lodz but which present a dying craft today. Although the houses are in place the interiors are still being restored and eventually will contain authentic equipment previously used by workers and craftsmen. I have to say that the quadrangle of buildings are quite stunning from an architectural and landscaping point of view and when completely renovated will give the museum additional space ideally suited for open workshops and I think they are even planning an open air cinema.

The museum is open Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 4pm, on Sunday from 10am to 3pm. Trams No 6 and 19 from Plac Wolnosci will drop you at the door of the museum.

Palace of the Herbst Family
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Siituated at ul. Przedzalniana 72, 1.5 kilometres east of the Textile Museum ( about a 20 minute walk along ul Tymienieckiego). The building erected in 1875, is today open to the public as a museum and is the best place to find out how the barons of industry lived in Lodz up till World War II. Although the owners fled abroad, taking all the furnishings and works of art with them, the interior was lovingly restored and furnished like the original.

The museum has different opening hours every day but should be open from noon until 5pm, and on Saturday and Sunday, from 11am to 4pm.

I have only listed a few of the attractions but if you wish to explore more palaces and villas, buy the map of Lodz entitled Palace Ziemi Obiecanej (Palaces of the Promised Land), which lists over 40 buildings of this sort complete with short descriptions and information regarding opening times. The map is published in English, German and French. It is avaialable in the Historical Museum and some bookshops.

Finally a quick mention regarding the large Jewish cemetry. I will probably review this later as I have an obsession with cemetries so I will just give you the tram number which is No 15. The cemetry is north east of the centre and you jump on the tram at Plac Wolnosci.

Accommodation
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I haven't stayed overnight so I can't make any comment on accommodation but there are plenty of hotels to choose from and there seems to be a wide price range to choose from. If you are a budget traveller then I suggest the central hostel. It is open all year and the beds will be the cheapest in the city. You can find the hostel at ul. Zamenhofa 13.

Eateries
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There's a fair range of places to eat but nothing out of the ordinary. There are several cafes and a string of bars on the main street (Piottrkowska). One of the cheapest restaurants is the Wilenska at No 19, which specialises in Lithuanian dishes. Try their kolduny and zraz (stuffed dumplings with steak and mushrooms) or if you like pierogi they do a good pierogi ruskie(potatoes and cheese in ravioli type envelopes).

If you like Chinese food which I do, then head to the golden Duck which is situated at No 79 Piotrkowska. It is an unpretentious restaurant with food that you'll find acceptable as long as you just haven't arrived from Singapore or Beijing. No smoking only - thought I had better mention that.

One of the more celubrious establishments is the Orfeuz at ul Narutowicza 43, near the bus station. The interior is nicely decorated and they serve good, delicious food at moderate prices. This is a haunt for atists and has a bustling and chatty atmosphere without being pretentious.

Entertainment
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Culturally there is a lot on offer in Lodz. The city hosts several universities and a handful of theatres which show opera, drama, musical productions, musical recitals and ballet. The city organises the Opera Festival in March and the Ballet Festival from late May until early June. As for clasical music; the National Philarmonic Orchestra usually gives concerts on Friday and Saturday evenings. For films check out the Lodski Dom Kultury (City Culture Centre).

The Information Centre in the city at Zamenhofa 1/3 is a good source of information about what's going on in the city and it also sells tickets for many of the shows and performances.

Manufaktura
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How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself 'More than a shopping cente?' In the case of Manufaktura, for once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed more than a shopping centre. Manufaktura today is the result of Poland's largest renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaw's Old Town in the 1950's. Situated in Lodz and originally a series of factories that were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century the restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed. Enter through the Poznanski gate, where workers used to file through every day on their way to the mills, and you'll arrive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000 square metres Rynek (main square). Featuring Europe's longest fountain the square is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness clubs, and IMAX cinema crowded around it. A full programme of events is planned to keep things lively, incuding rock concerts, beer festival and big screen showing of sports events.

With a catchment area of 1.8 million people in a 50km radius Manufaktura expect 15 million visitors per year. For the more languorous character two electric tramlines have also been added to ferry visitors from one end of the complex to the other. And in spite of all this Manufaktura remains very much a work in progress; further additions include the transformation of the showpiece Spinning Mill into a conference centre, ofice block and a four star hotel, as well as the addition of a huge modern art centre, children's museum and technological museum.

Summary
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Lodz isn't the most attractive city in Poland but it is very interesting and as a great fan of Art Nouveau Art and Architecture, I was pleased to find some real gems. Being brought up as a child in Lancashire I have always been interested in the textile industry and I do find industrial cities fascinating. The textile museum in Lodz is one of the most beautiful examples of industrial architecture I have ever seen and I think the work that they are doing at the moment to recreate a working mill town inside the museum grounds is very admirable and I hope when it is finished it will be very popular with visitors. This city isn't Krakow with its picturesque old quarter or even Warsaw with its Old Town and Gotham City tower blocks, it is a city with its own charm; a little scruffy round the edges but well worth a visit.

Summary: Poland's Youngest City.