French Beauty (Morlaix, France)

Member Name: elbar1

Product:	Morlaix, France
Date:	19/08/08 (142 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Everything!

Disadvantages: Nothing!

Morlaix is a beautiful old town situated near the North coast of Brittany, just south of Roscoff.

THE TOWN
Morlaix itself is situated in and around a deep valley. The centre of the town, the shops and town hall are all situated in the bottom of a very steep valley. Most hotels and restaurants can also be found here. The more residential areas are found along the extremely steep hills that flank either side. The two sides of the valley are connected by a two tier viaduct.

ARCHITECTURE
Much of the architecture in the centre of the town is impressive, traditional nineteenth century. The older area of the town has winding cobbled streets with overhanging medieval houses, which are constructed of stone and timber. You can spend many a wonderful afternoon strolling around spotting the various sculptures on the façades of these older buildings. We have visited Morlaix at least 8 times and yet every time we go, there is always something fresh that we discover. If you like history, you will love Morlaix!

One example of an incredibly interesting house is La Maison de la Reine Anne, or Queen Anne's house, built in the sixteenth century and probably the oldest house in Morlaix. It is now a museum that traces the history of Finistère. It is a fascinating little museum but what is most interesting is not the exhibitions but the building itself. To see how a family would have lived in sixteenth century France is incredible and the excellent original condition of the building will really take you back in time. Entry costs 4 euros for an adult or 6 euros for a family.


TRANSPORT LINKS
If you have taken the ferry to Roscoff, Morlaix is only a short drive inland, along the winding river. Alternatively you can catch a train or bus from Roscoss. The train station is in the centre of the town. The bus stops at the ferry port. Timetables vary depending on the season and whether it is a public holiday so it is well worth checking this out before you set off. The trains are the best I have travelled on in Europe! For only a 10 minute ride, they really have put a great deal of effort into making them state of the art.


WHERE TO STAY
HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE 2 étoile(s), 1 rue d'Aiguillon, 29600 MORLAIX. (This is the hotel we always stay in. It is two star but I have no idea why. The decor is stunning. The staff are helpful. The breakfast is delicious and plentiful. The beds are comfortable. The bathrooms are grand and exquisite. To have a look at some of their rooms, check out http://www.hotel-europe-com.fr/ Prices range from 60 euros to 150 euros. It is by far the best hotel in town. The medieval staircase alone makes the stay worthwhile! It has carved figures all the way up. It really is beautiful. There is also free internet connection and satellite television in the rooms.)
HÔTEL SAINT-MELAINE , 75/77, rue Ange de Guernisac, 29600 MORLAIX (This is a cheaper alternative. There are shared bathrooms and the rooms are not great but for less than 30 euros a night, what more can you ask for. They also do an amazing workers buffet for lunch. 10 euros for a 5 course meal. Outstanding value and excellent traditional home-made French food. Superb!)


WHERE TO EAT
There is an abundance of creperies in Morlaix, all of which I can safely say serve delicious galettes and crepes. After all, this is the food that the Bretons are famed for. The main restaurants that we go back to time and again, and the ones that serve consistently excellent food are as follows:

Restaurant Les Fontaines, 2 Rue au Fil (Open only for lunch. Has a small menu of specials, which change daily. It is worth having a look at the menu, which is chalked up outside each morning to see if you fancy anything. If you do, I would not hesitate to go in. The home-made food is delicious. The owner is extremely friendly and will attempt to translate into English for you. The decor is dark and romantic, with a bar full of interesting bits and pieces at one end. There are also tables outside during the summer months. Main courses are about 6 euros so very reasonable. But the food is superb quality and there is plenty of it. My favourite is their chicken in mushroom sauce. But I have to be honest, we have never had a bad meal here. We even once ordered tripe by mistake and thoroughly enjoyed it! It's Andouille for reference - in case you want to avoid it!!)

Le Grand café de la Terrasse, 31 place des Otages (I have done a separate review on this restaurant. It has an elegant romantic decor and a superb menu. It has far smaller portions and is not as homely but the food is again delicious. You should be able to eat from the set menu for 12 euros. Their sauces are divine.)

La Parenthèse, 4 place au lait (A pizzeria, slightly out of the main town but only a 5 minute walk. The service is so warm and friendly and the pizzas are incredible. They are prepared in the restaurant so you can see exactly what is being done. There is also a large open pizza oven in the room which makes it very snug and homely. We only discovered this restaurant the last time we went and yet we managed to eat there three times in a week - it was that good!)

Restaurant le Chaudron, 7, rue Ange de Guernisac (By far the jewel in Morlaix's cuisine crown. Every meal is delicious. The first time we had coq au vin, rather than asking if we were enjoying it, the owner came over and commented, "Good isn't it?". Their pride and confidence is entirely justified. Stunning good honest homely food. You would be failing yourself if you did not eat here at least once during your stay in Morlaix. The owner can be a little intimidating at times but only because she has total control over her restaurant. She will help with the menu but does not speak fluent English. If you try at French, she will try at English. That is often the way in France. Prices are extremely reasonable, especially for the set menus. For about 15 euros you can eat the biggest seafood platter you have ever seen of muscles, oysters, prawns and langoustines, followed by a big hearty steak that is cooked on the open fire in the restaurant, topped off with a delicious desert. You will be fit to burst after this meal... but so so happy!)


WHAT TO DO
You cannot miss the impressive granite viaduct in the town. It is worth gazing up for a while and trying not to get too dizzy! There is a beautiful marina at one end of the town, with an impressive display of very expensive boats.

There is a large market in Morlaix once a week. It is wonderful to wander around, buying bits of fruit and dreaming about how wonderful it would be to live in France and eat well every day.

My favourite thing to do in Morlaix is just stroll around the town, looking at the buildings, churches and pottering in the shops.

SURROUNDING AREA
Morlaix is very close to Roscoff and St Pol de Leon, both of which are pretty seaside towns. It is therefore a good base from which to explore this picturesque and idyllic area of Brittany.

OVERALL
A stunning gem of a town, situated in a good location to explore the surrounding area. The architecture is beautiful and the people friendly. You can stay in luxury and eat out every day on food fit for a king without breaking the bank. We go back a few times every year. I cannot recommend this town highly enough.

Summary: Really worth a visit, at least once in your life.