The Place Where the Polar Bears Go (Nanortalik)

Member Name: NemoDog

Product:	Nanortalik
Date:	05/09/09 (76 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Authentic Greenland Village

Disadvantages: Not easy or cheap to get there

Nanortalik is Greenland's southernmost town and means "the place where the polar bears go". I visited here back in 2006 the starting point of a sea kayak expedition. The only way to get here is by boat or by helicopter. I went by helicopter and it was an awesome flight in.

The town's emblem is a shield with 3 polar bears on. I think everyone who visits must ask the polar bear question. Yes they do still occasionally 'pass by' but very rarely in the town itself. Most are shot on sight now as they do pose a threat to livestock but rarely to people.

So what is there to do?
The Nanortalik area is best known for its natural "skyscrapers", the steep, jagged peaks and sheer cliffs in Tasermiut Fjord, Pamialluk, and the unique Prince Christians Sound. Many of these mountains have not been climbed so attract mountaineers and climbers eager to get a first ascent.

And of course you get people like me here to do some expeditioning by sea kayak. With miles of coastline to explore along with fjords and glaciers and of course amazing icebergs.

You can always go on a boat trip to the Sermitsiaq glacier in Tasermiut Fjord, where you can stand really close to the moving ice, or to the hot springs close to Alluitsup Paa.

I visited the local museum, which left me amazed. The museum is located in some original colonial buildings in the Old Harbour area. As you enter you feel like you have been transported back in time. As you wander back through history you learn about Eskimo settlements, Norse ruins, art, culture and local minerals. I took lots of pictures, especially of the photos that depicted life in Nanortalik many years ago. As well as all the indoor areas there is an outdoor camp with kayaks, umiaq, and Eskimo huts. The climb up to the viewpoint is also well worth it. It gave me a great appreciation of the country I was about to explore and how much did it cost? Nothing, that's right it was free!!

Then there is also the wooden church, which dates from 1916. It's in a Danish design, painted white with a red roof. I was curious as to what the small shed type building next to the church with a light outside it was so I asked. I got an answer I wasn't expecting, it's the morgue!! If the light is on then there's a body inside!!

So What Do the Locals Do?
The main work is in crab fishing, hunting for hooded seals, and fishing. Over the past few years, a goldmine in Kirkespir Valley 30 km north of Nanortalik has proven highly successful. There is also a local primary school and some council buildings. Tourism is slowly beginning to make an impact with a few locals working at the Tourism Office. Neil's who runs the tourism office is brilliant. Nothing is too much and he is always happy to help organize or sort out things. Many more cruise ships are now stopping. Up to 1500 people can end up visiting the town in just one day!! This seems to me a bit of an intrusion on the people living there to have such a huge invasion.

Wildlife
During the spring and late summer, there are many whales in the waters around the town, with minke whales being the most common visitors. We saw a Minke whale and also a humpback whale, a bit scary when you are in a kayak. The locals are allowed to kill a quota of whales a year, they are wary of people taking photos of them even killing seals.

Shopping
There are 2 fairly big supermarkets in the town, which sell everything. They have to as far as shops go that's it. The food comes in by container ship at intervals; sometimes it doesn't get there as the ice prevents the ships from getting in to the harbour. I was surprised to find that prices for most things were pretty much the same as the UK. Just don't buy watermelon, one of our group did and it cost him £20!! The supermarket on the main street sells the most amazing Danish pastries; I sampled most of them in the few days we were there.

If it's souvenirs that you are looking for then visit Neils at the tourist information service. They sell books, music, fur gloves, t-shirts, jewellery and much more.

Where to stay
I stayed at Old Anders' House, which is a small wooden building comprising of 2 bedrooms with bunks, a kitchen, a dining area and toilet. It was basic but as the rest of the 14 days I was going to be sleeping in a tent this was luxury.

There is also a youth hostel, which sleeps 8, some hotel apartments and Hotel Kap Farvel, which has one of Greenland's best restaurants.

On the return trip we stayed at the Youth Hostel Tupilak, which is centrally located with small double rooms, a Shared kitchen, showers, bathrooms and a large dining room with television and harbour view. Its not luxury but it was warm and clean. There is however a room underneath which they use, as a bar so I believe that it can sometimes be noisy.

Where to eat
Where else but in one of Greenland's finest restaurants, Hotel Kap Farvel. If you visit make sure that you enter by the hotel entrance rather than the bar entrance. Locals with a lot of alcohol can be very rowdy and somewhat aggressive at times. They offer an a la carte menu, which is equivalent to many UK restaurants. We had a set menu, which comprised of a starter of crab. This wasn't simply a plate of crabmeat served at the table. We went up to a table and helped ourselves to crab from these huge containers, which were full, of what I think were spider crabs. There was sauce on the table as well.

After we had had our fill of his it was onto the main course. Some of our group had asked about whale meat so the restaurant had done some especially for us along with local lamb. This was my one chance to try whale so I did, it was like beef but a bit bloodier taste. I ate more of the lamb though which was so tender, the veggies were good to.

If I had the chance to go back there to eat again I would be there in a shot.

In Conclusion
I realise now that it was a privilege to visit such an amazing place. Here I saw how fragile life was to a town with no transport links to anywhere except by air or sea. I have more of an appreciation of what I have and how I live; many people don't even have a flushing toilet!!

But I'll leave you with the words of McGonagall who wrote,
Greenland's icy mountains are fascinating and grand,
And wondrously created by the Almighty's command;
And the works of the Almighty there's few can understand:
Who knows but it might be a part of Fairyland?

Because there are churches of ice, and houses glittering like glass,
And for scenic grandeur there's nothing can it surpass,
Besides there's monuments and spires, also ruins,
Which serve for a safe retreat from the wild bruins.

And there's icy crags and precipices, also beautiful waterfalls,
And as the stranger gazes thereon, his heart it appalls
With a mixture of wonder, fear, and delight,
Till at last he exclaims, Oh! what a wonderful sight!

Summary: Well worth a visit