ONE FOR THE GUIDE BOOKS! (Niepolomice (Poland))

Member Name: Richada

Product:	Niepolomice (Poland)
Date:	04/02/08 (133 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Interesting Royal History. Castle. Compact Town. Easy Going Atmosphere.

Disadvantages: You Will Need Own Transport. Castle Contents not Original.

Does it ever happen to you that, when you set out in the morning intending to go to one place, that you actually finish up somewhere else entirely? That is exactly what happened to us the day we set out for Kazimierza Wielka, to the north east of Krakow in Poland.

As we drove west (from Mielec) towards Krakow, the sky was looking increasingly threatening, could this be the first time that it was going to rain in Poland for over two months? Did we have waterproof coats with us?

Yes and no!

A change of plan then, thanks to the threatening weather, looking around an ancient provincial town had lost its appeal. Better somewhere indoors, or at least where we could dodge the rain clouds. Niepolomice (pron. Nearpowomitsa), where we knew that there was a large castle, seemed to better fit the bill.

This is not the kind of small Polish town that you would stumble across by accident. Had we not known that it was there, we probably would never have heard of it. It is not, for instance, mentioned in my Lonely Planet Polish guide book.

It should be!

You may well wonder how I, as an Englishman, knew about this place. My wife is Polish and knew little if anything about it either. In actual fact, as chance would have it, we have been driving through this little town on each and every journey to her Polish home over the last couple of years. It is a town of 22,000 inhabitants, located to the south east of Krakow on our "back route" (avoiding the notoriously dangerous stretch of E40, between Krakow and Tarnow) en-route to Mielec.

As well as the stary miasto (old town centre), Niepolomice has, by Polish standards, quite prosperous industrial suburbs; Coca Cola even have a plant here for example. Fortunately these are not visible from the old town.

As you drive through Niepolomice, it is difficult to miss the rather large square castle and the very handsome town hall. On several occasions Mrs R had commented to me, that this looked like a place that would be worth stopping in to see. She is seldom wrong about such things, which proved to be very much the case on this occasion.

I had intended originally to request a category only for the castle here. However, having seen the rest of the town and reviewed my photographs from that day, I felt that in producing such a very specific review, I would be rather selling this interesting town short. Yes, the Royal Castle is undoubtedly the main attraction, but the church, rynek (town square) and Town Hall are all well worth viewing too.

In other words we find ourselves merely visiting a different provincial town to the one, which on that day, we had originally intended to do!

As with many other small towns in Poland, parking is free and easy. If you want to, you can park right outside the castle. We parked in a little square reserved for this purpose, opposite the town hall. This was a Sunday in early August and the town was very sleepy indeed, certainly not your average tourist attraction then!

There is no train station here, from the centre of Krakow it is a 15 mile drive, or bus ride. On the map you will find Niepolomce where country (or "B" road in England) road 964 from Wieliczka (of Salt Mines fame) meets main road 75.

This is however a town very much gearing up for tourism. There is much renovation going on generally here, all to the good. In front of us as we step out of the car is a large board telling us what to find and where. This is a small town centre, none of the places listed were more than five minutes walk away from where we were standing.

ROYAL CASTLE IN NIEPOLOMICE

Being the attraction that had drawn us here in the first place, obviously the castle was our first port of call. The large square castle with its cream coloured rendered walls and intensely terracotta coloured tiled roof, very much dominates the town. From the outside the castle is plain, foursquare and with few external decorative features. This does little to prepare you for the delights within.

The main entranceway faces the park, walking through it, one finds oneself in a huge open courtyard, this was obviously a grand and important building in past times.

Built in the fourteenth century by King Kasimir the Great, this castle was a royal residence and became known as "The Other Wawel Castle" - referring to the King's better known (to this day) castle in Krakow, which was, at that time, capital of Poland. Whilst hosting all sorts of political and royal gatherings, its' principal function was that of the King's hunting lodge, being located on the edge of a great forest.

The castle enjoyed its heyday in the sixteenth century, when under the Zygmunt dynasty it was redecorated in Renaissance style with extensive formal gardens laid out.

During the turbulent centuries of Polish history that followed - almost to this day, the castle fell into disrepair. Pictures now displayed on the walls and some of the un-restored rooms remaining, show just how ruined this place was when, in 1991, it was given to the town. Previously it had belonged to the city of Krakow. In that year, a huge restoration plan was started and in the years since the old castle has been restored to its present magnificent state. The exterior of the castle is fully restored, whilst inside the restoration is ongoing.

Most of the castle is now open as a museum, the top floor, in the extensive roof space, is however currently being converted into a hotel. When open next year, this will make a very attractive place to stay.

The full beauty of the courtyard, galleried both on the ground and first floor is difficult to describe. Having been so recently restored, much of it completely reconstructed, it may put you in mind of a Hollywood film set. In the centre of the courtyard is a fountain, four large cannons are placed around this.

Some of the ground floor is given over to what appear to be two separate restaurants, both of which offer splendid indoor eating areas or covered outdoor tables facing the courtyard. On the left hand side of the courtyard is the Tourist Information Centre, from where tickets can be purchased for the guided (only) tour. At 7PLN each, 5 for children (£1.40 / £1.00 approx.) this is one attraction that is hardly going to break the bank!

The Tourist Information Centre also houses a small souvenir shop.

THE GUIDED TOUR

At the appointed time (midday) a very nice lady (who seemed to understand - if not speak - English) appeared with a huge bunch of keys and took our small party down some stairs and into the cellars. Underneath the castle is an impressive network of four interconnecting cellars, all with attractive vaulted ceilings. The first dates from the 14th century, built in what is described as gothic style, using hand made bricks. As recently as the Second World War these cellars saw duty as arms stores for the German army. The other three cellars are of 16th century origin and were part of the Renaissance period of the castle, being used as food stores.

Fascinating as the castle is underground; its attractions above ground are just as interesting. As far as the contents are concerned, there is nothing original to this castle here, all of the furnishings (there are not many), art and interior décor has been put here during the past fifteen years or so. Several of the rooms - galleries as they now describe them, are given over to temporary exhibitions, whilst others are housed here permanently.

Some of the rooms that form the main galleries have their original decorated wooden ceilings from the 16th century. In one of the rooms is a permanent exhibition, paying homage to the most well known Polish wildlife photographer, Wodzimierz Puchalski (1909-1979). He specialised in making nature programmes, as well as producing 60 films he also wrote books on the subject. In this room are to be found some of his possessions, many of his films and photographs as well as his desk, boots and camera. As far as is known, he actually had no association with Niepolomice or its castle however.

Next we enter the Trophy Room, having already seen a colossal (stuffed) 100kg bison at the top of the stairs. All of the hunting trophies on display have been donated from around the world. The three rooms here resemble some kind of bizarre stuffed zoo, fascinating in an uncomfortable sort of way - especially the African collection. Here you will find a zebra standing in front of a giraffe head and neck mounted on the wall. Probably prize of this collection is the large brown bear, hunted in Russia. It has been stuffed and mounted on its hind legs.

Not only animals, but numerous birds are displayed here, mounted in flying positions on invisible thread. This really is an extraordinary sight!

Prepare yourself for other extraordinary displays to come, particularly, on our visit, an international doll collection. Collected by a young Krakovian lady, now only 27 years old, there is a large room containing many hundreds of dolls from all over the world. Apparently these dolls came into her possession a little like chain mail - people got to know that she was collecting them and sent them to her from all corners of the globe. Her collection was beautifully displayed here in well lit glass cabinets.

Parts of this magnificent castle can be hired for functions - the largest room here, the Acoustic Room, making an unusual wedding reception venue for instance. This room dates from 1772 and was created by the Austrians from several smaller rooms. It is a double height room, with a balcony running upstairs all the way around it. In one corner of this huge space sits a grand piano, the Acoustic Room is also, fittingly, used as a concert venue.

The guided tour finishes back outside on the upstairs colonnaded balcony. This is a superb vantage point from which to take photographs. Here in Niepolomice Castle, to their credit, the authorities have no objection to you taking photographs throughout, merely requesting that you do not use flash inside the castle rooms.

I considered my 7PLN to be money extraordinarily well spent. If I have wetted your appetite for a visit, I would note that by prior arrangement, you can organise with the Tourist Information Centre for an English speaking guide to show you around the castle.

The number to call to arrange this is (0048) 01228 11117

The Castle is open from 10.00am to 5.00pm, seven days a week.

THE RYNEK

Most Polish cities and towns, of whatever age are built around a town square - the rynek. Niepolomce is no exception to this. In actual fact the open area in the centre of the town here is not actually square at all! Neither is it enclosed by tall buildings. Unlike the very grand rynki (town squares) in Krakow, Sandomierz or Zamosc, the one here is much less formal in character and gives the centre of modern day Niepolomice a very pleasant "laid back", almost Mediterranean character.

As at the Castle, there are obvious signs of recent and on-going reconstruction taking place here, the ancient layout remains, but the facilities are being upgraded and renewed. Fountains, sculptures and the planting of attractive dwarf trees have all very much enhanced the attractiveness of this place. In one corner sits an artist, both selling and painting new pictures.

There are various shops here too of course around the "square", they are small and in proportion to their surroundings. Only a newsagent appeared to be open, in small Polish towns widespread Sunday trading has yet to arrive. There is a small street going off of one side of the square which contains more and larger shops, a general store was open, but there is no sign of a supermarket here though.

A short walk across the rynek connects the historic castle to the equally historic church.

THE CHURCH OF THE TEN THOUSAND MARTYRS

Along with the castle, the church was founded by King Casimirus the Great. He built it here as a token of gratitude for the victory over Russia in June 1349. The dedication of the church to The Ten Thousand Martyrs, remembers those slaughtered on Mt Arrarat in the year 150 A.D. - during the reign of Emperor Hadrian.

The church building that we see today is largely original from the 15th century, once again reconstructed during the period of the Zygmunt dynasty. At the same time a wall was built enclosing the church yard, that same wall remains to this day and is in surprisingly good condition.

Regrettably we could only go into the vestibule and view and photograph the church interior from the doorway, there are many wall paintings, mostly dating from the nineteenth century, some however from the sixteenth, which were discovered under plasterwork as the interior was renovated.

Whilst ancient churches abound in Poland and, on the face of it, there really is nothing unique about this one, due to its connection with the Royal Castle and Great King, it is very much part of what makes Niepolomice such a fascinating place to explore.

THE TOWN HALL

Whilst the church and castle are off of the main road, as you drive through Niepolomice, in either direction, it is hard to miss the town hall - prominent besides the main roundabout in the centre of the town.

What is surprising is that this building was erected in 1903, it looks brand new, if of slightly "Victorian" appearance in design. This comes about due to the fact that in order to celebrate its' 100th year, the community funded a complete restoration, inside and out of the building which has been in continuous use as the Town Hall since 1903.

As Polish Town Halls go, this is not a particularly large or impressive one. Predominantly red brick with white plasterwork detailing, it displays an eccentric mix of many different architectural styles, being gabled, turreted and even having an arched colonnade on the ground floor facing the road.

CONCLUSION

In many respects Niepolomice is a town in the final stages of regeneration. The authorities have seen a potential to raise considerable income through tourism and grabbed it with both hands. We found it a truly fascinating place to while away half a day.

Ironically, Niepolomice is located a mere fifteen minute country drive from the Salt Mines at Wieliczka, a World Heritage site, which the majority of Poles and very many western Europeans have heard of, if not visited, too.

If I were to design a tour itinerary in this area, based in Krakow, or preferably a less expensive outlaying town, the awe inspiring, but very much "indoor" attraction of the Salt Mines, combined with the leisurely outdoor appeal of Niepolomice would make a superb pairing for a day out that would not be forgotten in a hurry.

Niepolomice may not be in the guide books (yet!), but it certainly joins RICHADA's "recommended to see whilst in Poland" list. And, this time, just for a change, it is really not that far off of the more conventionally beaten tourist path either!

Summary: This may well be the only place that you can read about Niepolomice.