| Product: |
Olhao (Portugal) |
| Date: |
06/09/08 (139 review reads) |
| Rating: |
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Advantages: Town with a Moorish influence and adjoining islands
Disadvantages: Possibly one of the hottest places inthe Algarve
Olhao, pronounced "ol yow" is one of those towns that looks dishevelled on the outside but once inside the old town, beauty transpires and shines through. It is the largest fishing port in the Algarve and if you approach the town form the port side you may be a little disappointed as the area is shabby and very industrial with several warehouses. However don't despair because the town is full of character and definitely has a moorish influence with it's flat topped houses, white box chimneys and mosaic tiles. Many years ago in the 14th century Olhao would have been a samall settlement with a handful of people living in huts made from reeds and straw, living on the beach but by the 17th century the town had become more prominent and a fortress was built at Sao Lourenco to act as a defence against marauding pirates.
I first visited Olhao about 22 years ago as my husbands parents lived on a boat in Portimao harbour and for some reason they wanted to visit Olhao to see if they could anchor the boat in the docks. I remember being surprised by the scruffiness of the port area but over the years grew to like the untidiness and up to 5 years ago I visited this area every month on a Sunday as we took part in a boot sale that was held on the first Sunday of every month. It was a weird experience arriving at 6am, half asleep, when the sky was a haze of tangerine and the sea was calm. There was always a feeling of eeriness because the area surrounding all the stalls belonged to shipping companies and leading out to sea there were usually derelict boats and sometimes wrecks beached on the nearby sands. These days the warehouses, fishing boats and cranes don't bother me. I think it gives the area a great deal of character.
If you go round the corner from the docks the road runs along the waterfront and this is a very pleasant area to sit and watch the world go by. It is a very long promenade, beautifully paved in calcadas, with benches at intervals where you can sit and eat your ice creams. You have to devour your cones quickly before the sun melts the ice cream to a liquid and it falls to the ground. Many a time I have been in a dream and the next time I look down at my ice cream it has vanished to the pavement. To escape the Algarvian sun you can always take shade in the the very pretty gardens nearby.
Olhao is well known for it's markets especially it's fish market. The market halls are built from red sandstone bricks and sit side by side on the water front. Inside the smell of freshly caught fish is very pungent. There is always a huge variety of seafood and fish of different shapes and sizes from the smallest sardine to the largest tuna or swordfish. The second market building is always a kaleidoscope of colour with an array of freshly grown vegetables piled high on every stall. After your shopping expedition it is time to have a break and you won't have far to walk as the market buildings are surrounded by pavement cafes. Here you can sit and look out to the adjoining islands of Armona and Culatra and watch the boats bobbing and dotting in the sea as they ferry the visitors and inhabitants to the islands.
If you follow the road between the gap in the market halls you will find yourself in the historical heart of the town. This area with it's merchant houses hidden behind wrought iron balconies, carved stonework and decorated tiles, is a total contrast from the run down port area. At the end of Avenida da Republica in the centre of town stands a very graceful building with a baroque facade. It is the church of Nossa Senhora do Rosario (Our Lady of the Rosary) and was built in 1698 and I might add, the first stone building to be built in Olhao. Every block of stone was paid for with contributions from the local fishermen.
On the other side of the square the building behind the church is the fishermen's mutual society or otherwise known in Portuguese as the Compromisso Maritimo. This building was founded in the eighteenth century and is also home of the town's museum.
This historical part of the town is very picturesque and shady which is a blessing in the hot Summer months. There are many cafes inviting you in to sit down and have a break from all the sightseeing and various, interesting Portuguese old style shops which I always love to have a nosy around being an inquisitive and curious creature.
For all the sunworshippers unfortunately Olhao doesn't have it's own beach because it is on the Rio Formosa lagoon system which is a conservation area for birds and marine life. Ferries from the waterfront can be caught at regular intervals and I recommend you take a trip as these islands are stunning, in the real 'Robinson Crusoe' style. Times will differ in Winter and probably less ferries will run so always check the timetables.
Olhao is surrounded by ilhas which is pronounced "il yash", and they are small spit islands. The closest ilhas to the town are; Ilha da Culatra and ilha da Armona. Culatra is the largest and has the most all year round residents who mostly live in single storey wooden huts spread amongst sandy pathways lined with pink and purple oleanders. Bouganvilea is in abundance everywhere and often seen cascading from wooden balconies. The heat on this island is sometimes unbearable and within seconds from leaving the boat and stepping upon the soft sand you can feel the sun's rays burning through your skin. The water is crystal clear and in the winter months the island slowly sleeps and it is just like being on the desert island we often long to be on. Dotted along the pathway from the quay there are several cafes and restaurants and the smell of burning wood, freshly cooked fish, sea salt and olive oil is an aroma so inviting you just have to follow your nose to the table already awaiting.
At the western end of Culatra is Ilha do Farol (lighthouse in Portuguese) and obviously this is where the lighthouse stands. The water here is very warm and golden sands stretch for miles.
Ilha do Armona is the nearest island to Olhao and takes about 10 minutes on the ferry. This beach consists of white soft sand and again stretches for miles. The water here is very warm and shallow at low tide. Most chalets are equpped for holiday makers and there are restaurants and cafes and I think one is open all year. I know there is a beach hut available for long term let on this island and believe me I have often thought of renting it for at least 6 months so I can be alone, moody and bohemian.
Ilha Deserta is uninhabited and to reach this island you have to catch a water taxi. There is only one restaurant serving traditional fish dishes and it soon fills up with visitors so if you do wish to eat there I suggest you book ahead. Here is the telephone number Tel: 917811856. Sorry the island doesn't have Internet but if you need to use the internet when visiting somewhere as beautiful as this then I think you might possibly need help.
And that ends my travelogue for today. I hope you have enjoyed my trip to Olhao in the eastern Algarve.
Summary: A Moorish town by the sea
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