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18/02/05 (114 review reads) |
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Advantages: Cheap, Beautiful
Disadvantages: Busy Prague
I travelled around the Czech Republic last year the day after they joined the EU. Amazingly in Praha airport, the little blue and gold stars were already up. There’s Eastern European efficiency for you!
Before you get put off by the negative stuff, read on because the Czech Republic is fabulous.
Quick tip – don’t listen to anyone who says it’s difficult to get from the airport by public transport. That’s b*ll*cks! A bus leaves from outside the arrivals hall which connects to the local train system. If you follow everyone else, it’s pretty easy. You can buy a ticket in advance in the arrivals hall and they gave me a little instructions card. Don’t bother trying to buy a “Prague Card” or anything like that; they’re a waste of money. You’d also have to use the trains and trams loads to make it worth buying a day ticket. The 12Kc 60 minute ticket can be transferred. Remember 2 things though; large luggage needs a 6Kc ticket and validate your ticket(s) by putting them into the machine the first time you get onto a bus, train or tram. DON’T EVEN TRY TO AVOID PAYING THE FARE. Ticket inspectors check regularly and will fine you on the spot. Being a tourist will not be seen as an excuse. If you’re at all worried, take a look at http://www.dp-praha.cz/en/index.htm - there’s a great set of pictures about what the machines look like, what a ticket inspectors ID looks like, tariffs and fares.
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER USE A TAXI IN PRAGUE. There are loads of stories about people having problems and I know friends who’ve been ripped off.
Now Prague (Praha) is nice but that’s it. I went in May and there were hoards of English, Irish, and Germans etc. That might be your cup of tea but it’s not mine. I’m also a bit mean when it comes to travelling so I love going somewhere cheap and cool. Anyway, Prague is busy, expensive and touristy but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy yourself there. I stayed at the Sir Toby’s Hostel which is a little out of town but the transport network of trams and trains is so good, it’s easy. Sir Toby’s was ok but if you’re not used to Hostelling, it might not be your thing.
Top Prague tips:
1. Get up early and go to the Charles Bridge at about 8am. You’ll never see it so quiet or so beautiful.
2. Go to Vysehrad. Much less touristy than the castle and much, much cheaper to go into the cathedral. Go and see the famous Czechs in the graveyard. Also the Music Festival in May starts here (odd I know but it was an experience).
3. Have a fabulous beer. The Czechs brew the best. Don’t go to a bar in the old square, minutes walk away are much cheaper, more authentic places.
4. Try a bit of Czech, people appreciate the effort. Beer is Pivo, please is Prosim (pron. prosseem), No is “Ne”, Yes is “Ano” (which can sound like “No” to English people), Thanks is “Dekuju” (dyekooyoo) Hello is “Dobry Den”, I don’t understand is “Nerozumim”. A website with pronunciations is on http://www.czechinfocenter.com/e.mag/czech/czau.ht ml. If all else fails, some people speak German but Russian, although understood, wouldn’t be well received.
5. GET OUT OF PRAGUE. Don’t you get annoyed with tourists who think the whole of the UK can be summed up by a visit to London? The Czech Republic has some of the best train services in the world.
Right, so you’re at the train station wondering where to go. I’ll list the places I went and give quick reviews:
Olomouc:
Pretty and quiet. Good trams system. A cheap hotel to stay at is the Narodni Dom in the centre. It’s basic and very Slavic but it does.
Plsen:
Home of Pilsner Beer. If you can get here in the Liberation festival, it’s fabulous and a great laugh seeing all the Czechs dressed up as GIs. Don’t think the Iraqis will be doing the same in 60 years time. Allegedly the US liberated Plzen but held back allowing the Soviets to take the rest of the Czech Republic. Personally I just think they fancied some beer. Plzen is a weird mix of the Soviet with beautiful old buildings and one of the biggest Synagogues in Eastern Europe. Of course, it’s never far from your mind that the Czech Republic has hardly any Jews left.
Pardubice:
Fabulous purely for the people and people watching. A local cheap hotel was full so a local man helped me find somewhere else to stay that was nicer and cheaper, while giving me a tour of Pardubice in broken English and Czech. After that he wouldn’t accept a bit of cash for a beer! Also another really beautiful town.
Castles:
I went to Karlstejn and Sternberk as well as others I can’t remember the names of. Be prepared to be given a written guide in English rather than a tour. English isn’t widely spoken outside of Prague.
I can’t really get across how fab the Czech Republic is if you like feeling a bit different. I didn’t meet a single English person outside Prague and personally I think that’s great. Try it now before it all changes under the EU!
When I finally returned to Prague and was checking in at the Sleazyjet desk, a couple behind me said how nice it was in Prague, how cheap and how friendly. I asked whether they left the capital. They said no. I allowed myself a small amount of smugness.
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- 22/02/05 I unfortunately didn't make it to the races but I heard about them while I was there.
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- 19/02/05 Grrreat review (and I am Polish!). But if you mention Pardubice at all, please please add something about Velká pardubická, which is one of the most difficult horse races there are out there, a real killer steeplechase I thing it's called, I am not a horsy person but even I have heard of it!
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- 19/02/05 The Czech Republic could do with you in their tourist office. :-) I do like the idea of learning a few words of the language before visiting. Polite somehow.
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