A mountainous wilderness with a touch of style and sophistication (Tras-os-Montes (Portugal))

Member Name: Praskipark

Product:	Tras-os-Montes (Portugal)
Date:	27/07/09 (88 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: A quiet, peaceful region where you can walk, fish, swim, hang glide, eat and drink

Disadvantages: A bit remote for some people

The Tras-os-Montes is an area of remote beauty in the far north east of Portugal. Until 1990 this region was quite cut off from the rest of the country. The terrain is mountainous - hence the name - beyond the mountains. Two new motorways have now been built; one penetrates through the Douro into Braganca, the fortified city and capital in the top north eastern corner, and the other weaves its way from Vila Real, past Chaves and will eventually lead into the north of Spain. This is good news in one way as it means that towns like Chaves and Braganca are more stylish and sophisticated and not the run down backwater towns like they used to be. It also means that younger people of the area are staying and not leaving for the glory lights of Lisbon and Porto. Still the population seems very old and the residents of the towns in the mountains are traditional and speak a form of Portuguese that is sometimes very difficult to understand. The mountain people are very independent, conservative and very proud of their beautiful region and customs. They love tourists and always make them welcome. Religion is very important and at festival times you will see devils, gilted masks and other echoes of times before Christ. Fortified medieval towns, villages with stone houses, decorated balconies and thatched roofs, are just some of the things to look out for.

A sight to see often in the mountains are smallholdings with whitewashed dovecotes (pombais) and lots of stone granaries standing on stilts. Long-horned cattle, sheep and wayward goats graze on the mountain sides. In the river valleys vines grow as well as wheat, rye corn, olives, almonds, potatoes and vegetables. The forests are thick with eucalyptus, oak and sweet chestnut. The best time to visit is in spring when rocky moorland turns into a colourful blanket of heather, and wild flowers. The three mountain ranges - Mentesinho, Alvao and Geres are now national parks and suitable for hillwalkers, hang gliders and horse riding. The spa towns; Chaves, Pedras Salgadas and Vidago are pretty towns and popular with visitors who want to spend time in the hot spring waters.

My favourite city of this region is Braganca and I always remember the first time I visited I couldn't believe how remote and medieval it really was. It was as if cars hadn't been invented. Donkeys and hay wagons were the most popular mode of transport. The setting is quite spectacular, a fortified town surrounded by mountain ranges.

Historically, Braganca was a strategic fortress town and it was the origin of the royal house of Braganca which ruled Portugal from 1640 to 1910 and provided Charles 11 of England with a Queen (Catherine of Braganca).

Today it is a university and market town and walking around the old whitewashed houses you will come across many a stone stairway. The citadel still surveys its city from behind the sturdy city walls and the city is much larger now, expanding westwards and tumbling down towards and along the river. Granite houses were built later in the 20th century giving the town an urban feel.

I first went to Braganca about 20 years ago and have been back several times. The last time was a year ago and I noticed how sophisticated the city had become. The motorway has obviously brought new businesses and tourism to the region. Some of its ancient charm has disappeared but it is still worth taking a day to explore the ancient buildings and cobbled streets in and around the citadel. Braganca is also a good base for exploring the hills, forests and uplands covered in purple heather, not forgetting the delightful little villages.

Chaves is an interesting town and has a very Spanish feel to it. In fact, I think it lies about 10 kilometres from the Spanish border. Because of its fertile valleys and climate Chaves is a very good wine making area. The valley that surrounds Chaves is the Tamega Valley and on the eastern side is a fault line that gives rise to hot mineralised springs. The waters are still used to treat ailments such as rheumatism and high blood pressure and anything else the doctor orders. Portugal is a nation of hypochondriacs and there is nothing more they like to do than to take the waters and obey their doctor. The water is also bottled and sold in the local shops and throughout the country.

Chaves is a very pretty town and I have always found its people very friendly although at times difficult to understand. They are a bit querky as well. I remember buying several bread rolls from a supermarket. As I took the bag out of the shopping basket to put on the counter one dropped out. I went to pick it up to put back in the bag and the lady at the cash desk tapped my hand, took the roll and blew on it and then put it back in the bag. Strange people.

There is a very long Roman bridge which is still used. I think it has 20 arches. Very pretty to look at. The castle is 14th century and remnants are still there for you to visit. This area is very atmospheric with a medieval quarter surrounded by gardens in bloom.

A warning - accommodation is very difficult to come across in the summer months because of this so called 'medical tourism.' I have never been lucky enough to find a hotel or rooms vacant so have stayed in the campsite. Luckily the tent has never fallen down in Chaves!

Most of the towns heading down the valley are spa towns. Vidago is one of the quieter spa towns and its very chic Vidago Palace Hotel which was originally built in 1910 has been renovated and is now open with its fantastic golf course and top notch spa. You will have to book in advance to reserve a room here.

Montalegre in a non-descript town on a plateau up in the north west of the region. The only attraction that is impressive and stands at the top of a hill is its newly renoivated castle but unfortunately you are unable to visit it. However, the moorland that surrounds the town is great for hill walking but I advise you take some good maps which you can obtain from the tourist office in Montalegre. South of the town there is an area known as the Barroso. The area is mountainous and covered in heather. Sheep, goats and oxen graze here and reservoirs and rivers are suitable for fishing and anyone who is good at watersports. That leaves me out.

The roads are more accessible now and it is easier to connect to the towns in the Tras-os-Montes from the Douro region. Murca which is a town that is half in the Douro and half in the Tras-os-Montes is known for its Porca da Murca. This is a huge granite Iron Age pig that stands in the main square. Another fine Roman brige is of interest in the town, also.

Most towns off to the south east of the area are still miles away from anywhere. The only visitors being bird watchers. The Serra de Mogadouro and Parque Natural do Douro Internacional support many species of birds, from black storks whose nests you can see on top of huge chimneys and high roofs to falcons and vultures. The actual town of Mogadouro is a lovely old sleepy town with an agricultural market once a week.

Last but not least - Miranda do Douro is a quiet city, small but quite spectacular. It is Portugal's eastern most city and perched high on a cliff top. The city centre is very sweet with small white houses and stone, cobbled streets. The views into and across the canyon of the Douro Internacional are amazing. Crossing the dam from Miranda to Zamora in Spain is a huge 80 metre high road - pretty spectacular, I reckon.

Restaurants are varied throughout the Tras-os-Montes. They range from small, inexpensive to large family run establishments. Decor is sometimes quaint and traditional but can be very smart and sophisticated. Prices per meal including wine range from 15 euros per person up to 40 euros. Cuisine served is generally meat based as the region is famous for its pork, sausages and cured hams which are sometimes smoked over oak or chestnut fires. One interesting but quite delicious dish to look out for is Feijoada a Transmontana. A scrumptious stew made of dried beans with a variety of pig's offal including ears and trotter's. Honey is widely used in desserts and sold throughout the mountain villages as is the hard goat's cheese, Cabra Transmontano.

I can't really comment on accommodation but I know from my travels there is a plethora of hotels, self catering houses, manor houses, exclusive spa hotels. Some of the house in the high top villages are exteremely pretty and have been beautifully renovated. I am sure out of season these wonderful establishments will be free but definitely not July and August unless you book well in advance. Looking on line at prices they seem to range from 45 euros per night (room) to up to 250 euros. Prices for the Vidago Palace Hotel are a lot cheaper than I expected. A double room ranges from 78 euros low season to 147 euros - high season. That's incredibly cheap for such a very stylish spa hotel.

Farmer's Markets are very popular in the Tras-os-Montes. You will usually find one market open for buisness every day throughout a week. Braganca has a municipal market. This is a new modern building which holds a traditional market selling smoked hams, charcuterie, meat, fish and seafood, bread, cakes, fruit and vegetables. For a more modern shopper there is a trendy shopping centre and a Cyber Centre.

The other two main market towns are; Mirandela which is a covered market and open everyday but on Thursdays it is a special extravaganza. Murca opens to the public on the 13th and 28th of the month and sells all kinds of food including cured hams, sausages, goat's cheeses and wild honey.

January and February is festival time in the mountains. In Montalegre a huge charcuterie fair comes to town on the third week of the month. The region may be quiet but when a fair hits the road it is time for celebrating and believe me these are noisy affairs with loud voices, singing, jarring traditional music and plenty of food and drink.

In February the Feira do Fumerio (Smoke Fair) is held in Vinhais. This is an experience. You can taste as much smoked food as you can eat and buy, of course. At the same time if you are up to it you can join in the folk dancing, fireworks, bullfighting and other festivities. Portuguese firework displays are quite spectacular even if they take a long time to organise and don't always light up the sky the first time.

So there you go - a wonderful region that I am very fond of. Yes, I know I am very fond of the whole of Portugal but the Tras-os-Montes is a little different. I love the remoteness of some of the towns; the peaceful hilltop villages where people stop and stare at you, the horse and hay wagons filled to the brim with hay, foodstuffs, ragged children, chickens and goats and the odd pig trotting behind. I love the old ladies dressed in black with hats that are tall and pointed, like the witches of Macbeth wore. I love the antiquated Portuguese dialect that is strange to my Algarvian ear. Yes, you are right perhaps I am just nuts about Portugal.

The Tras-os-Montes isn't for everybody. You won't be able to eat junk food and dance the night away to hip-hop here unless you put on your traditional folk gear but sometimes it's a great feeling to escape the modern life and go back to the wilderness. Check it out!

Summary: The forgotten north east of Portugal