Trotting around in Trogir (Trogir)

Member Name: Praskipark

Product:	Trogir
Date:	26/03/09 (206 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: A town full of history and a lively, atmospheric waterfront

Disadvantages: Can get overcrowded during July and August but not as bad as Dubrovnik or Split

Trogir - where is it, you may well ask? This small port and town is situated in Central Dalmatia which is in Croatia and about 30 kilometres from Split where there is an International airport. The town is well located as it is on the famous Adriatic Highway which links this part of Croatia to the rest of Europe. The reason I came across this beautiful spot is because we were driving from Zagreb to Split and thought I would stop overnight and see what the town had to offer. I knew the town existed but originally wasn't going to visit because I thought it would be overcrowded with visitors as I had heard it was a very popular resort. But seeing that we were doing a grand tour of Croatia and the other Balkan countries in our very old and frail camper van I thought why not, its only another night, another place. I am so glad I did stop because Trogir is actually a mighty fine place.

In fact, I would go as far to say that it is one of the most stunning places in this area. The town sits on its own island with bridges linking it to the mainland on one side and to the island of Ciovo on the other. As you walk around Trogir you immediately feel that you are in the Mediterranean with its shimmering knot of orange roofs and traditional stone buildings, amongst which lies one of Croatia's most remarkable cathedrals. The well preserved old town is perhaps the most unified in the whole country, a pedestrianised oasis where pages of history are peeled back with every step. Even the many tourists fail to diminish the appeal of this beautiful town.

A visit to the surrounding area of Trogir is worthwhile just to see the lush verdant vegetation which consists of heavy laden fig trees, silvery grey-green olive trees and black carob trees. Lots of aromatic herbs grow wild and when the wind is blowing you are able to breathe in the wonderful scented aromas as they waft through the blue dappled skies. Not forgetting the small islets and coves, pebble beaches and rocky promintories. But the real beauty of the town is in its historic core which is perfectly preserved and shines with churches, palaces, monuments and art. In 1997 the town was included in the Unesco World Heritage list. The fortified town with its streets, squares and a myriad of fascinating buildings has kept its medieval structure and is an important asset to Croatia.

To give you a taste of the attractions and features you will find in Trogir I will give a short description of my top ten places to visit in the town;

Cathedral of St Lawrence
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This is a monumental building and one that shouldn't be missed. What I found really interesting was the 13th century west door, lavishly adorned with biblical scenes carved by Trogir-bon sculptor Radovan. The portal is unusual because this artist didn't follow the patterns of the time by usiing iconography but used different elements. The biblical scenes represent real life in the form of hunting, fishing and games rather than a mystical theme. The scenes represent an earthiness by being interwoven and mingled with leaves and branches. On either side of the door you will notice Adam and Eve standing proudly over a pair of Venetian lions. This is obviously indicating the influence that the Venetians once had over Trogir.

The baptistry was finished in 1497 and it is a mixtue of Gothic and Renaissance style which is absolutely sumptious.The portal is decorated with mouth watering fruits, intricate flowers and gothic shells. In the interior, there is an interesting mixture of styles, leaves that sway in the wind but are moving in opposite directions and a rather jolly frieze depicting happy children wearing garlands.

St. John's Chapel is a marvellous piece of work that was carried out from 1461 until 1497. The chapel is Renaissance in style and in the form of a mausoleum with a sarcophagus made entirley from marble. The architect responsible for this creative piece was no other than Nikola Firentinac who was a pupil of Italy's famous Donatello. Look out for the cherubs holding torches.

The adjacent Zupni Dvor houses an interesting collection of 14th to 17th century Dalmation paintings.

There is a small admission charge to go inside the cathedral which was 10 Kuna when I visited in 2007. Approx £1 (I have just checked on the currency converter and 10 kuna = £1.24)
Opening Times - from June to Sept - 9am - 12 and rom 4pm until 7pm

Civic Museum
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Trogir's Civic Museum is housed in the Baroque Garagnin Palace and presents details of the town's eclectic past. It displays everything from the legacy left by the Greeks and Romans to chilling documents from the Napoleonic era listing the proclamation of death sentences on local officials who dared to defy French authority. I particularly enjoyed walking around the salon which houses original furniture from the 17th and 18th century and I loved the grim looking portraits of the Trogir aristocrats. There is a fantastic collection of beautifully decorated church robes with intricate embroidered designs and an amazing collection of books from the 14th century.

The price of entry for this museum is 15 krona for adults and 5 krona for children.

Opening Times - 9am -1 and from 5pm until 9pm

Kamerlengo Fortress
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This is a hum dinger of a Romanesque fortress mainly because it is so well preserved and gives the whole town a medieval look. It is very similar to the one in Paphos in Cyprus. The battlements and fortifications are safe to walk on and from the top you will have a terrific glimpse of the town. This fortification has guarded the western approaches to Trogir since the 15th century. In the summer concerts and films are showed here. What a fine place to be Bohemian! If you are not bothered about the arts then the ramparts offer views of the old town.

Open from June until September. Daily times from 9am until 8pm. Cost - 10 kuna.

Cipiko Palace
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This grand Gothic masterpiece is very impressive and one of the finest buildings in the old town. It was once the base of the powerful Cipkio family who held great influence in 15th century Trogir. The remains of the old Romanesque palace is still to be seen on the ground floor of the edifice. What I really admire about this palace is the arrangement of two rows of arched Gothic windows standing at the top of the building and then underneath another three of the same style but with a stone balcony underneath. In parts the stone work has been blackened with age and the elements but you can still see the golden sandstone shining through which gives the building a worn but romantic look. I can just imagine Rapunzel with her head of golden hair standing at one of these windows.

Loggia and Clock Tower
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This is a cumbersome looking building in many ways. The tower has a dumpy sort of look to it and with its enormous blue clock seems too large for the rest of the building and totally dominates the area. Traditionally this was a place where criminals were tried and shamed, the 14th century loggia is notable for the conspicuous hole on its eastern wall. This was left when a Venetian stone lion was blown up by local activists in the 1930's, in a show of defiance against Italian claims on Dalmation territory.

An interesting building to view but not the most attractive in the town.

Church of St John the Baptist
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This very small Romanesque church stands in the main square next to the abbey. Once a great Benedictine monastery built in the 13th century and now is the final resting place of the famous Cipiko family. Here you can view their tomb, decorated with a 15th century relief depicting the mourning of Christ. The relief is quite stunning as you are able to see the suffering and pain in the face of Christ carved into the stone. Definitely worth a peek if you like tombs and a good bit of sculpture.

Mazmont's Gazebo
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This is sometimes known as Mazmont's pavillion and it is a gazebo built in neo-classical form on the western end of the island near to the fortress. Originally, the pavillion rose out of the water before the sea level dropped.

During the Napoleonic era (1806-13) the head French General in the region, Marmont, liked nothing better than to recline, here taking in the views and indulging in the odd game of cards with a glass of wine, watching the colours of the sky change as the golden yellow of the sun changed to a burnt orange as it began to set. Over the years shipyards have been built in Ciovo which you can now see but it is still a striking spot and I can very well understand why he chose it as a place to chill out.

Convent of St Nicholas
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This modest convent is worth visiting for its art collection. The highlight, only uncovered in the 1920's, is the 3rd century Greek relief of Kairos which is the God of Luck and symbol of the Olympic Games in Ancient Greece. I am always fascinated by works like this because I can never understand how they had the patience to sit there for days, weeks, even months chiselling away at a piece of marble to create every part of the body and face. The other stone relief in the collection which interested me was of the Greek God, Achilles. The most beautiful piece of art, for me, was the 13th century painting of Madonna with Child. A very ancient painting indeed. The painting is so delicate and very few colours used but the look on the face of Madonna is so maternal it is absolutely beautiful. I remember when leaving the convent, I spied a couple of interesting wooden chests which looked to me be 'very Gothic'. Apparantely they were chests made available for newcomers to the convent to deposit their gifts. I fell in love with these immediately and wanted to bring one home with me.

Land Gate
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I thought I would just mention this as it is quite impressive and has survived to this day.The gate was built by the Venetians and forms part of the fortifications. A statue of St John, Trogir's patron saint, watches warily over new arrivals from the mainland. It's always amazing how such structures stand the test of time. I love to stand and stare and imagine how many people have passed by this gate.

Riva
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Now, I have left this to the last because this is my favourite place on Trogir to visit. Although I love history and I am always interested in knowing as much information as possible about the town I am visiting and will walk around, going in and out of museums, churches etc, I am also lazy and there is nothing more I like to do than sit on a palm fringed waterfront sipping a beer or drinking coffee. The waterfront is where locals and tourists come to wander or enjoy a meal or drink on a barmy summer evening.There are numerous bars, cafes and restaurants and in July when we were there boats lined up on the waterfront so that visitors can book trips for the following day. The riva also hosts the summer festival in July and August which is a cacophany of sounds permeating from folk, classical, rock and jazz instruments. Street performers, dancers, flame throwers all take part in the activities along the wide pedestrianed riva. A fascinating, if noisy experience not to be missed.

So there you are - my top 10 highlights.

A word of warning
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Vehicles are not allowed in the historic part of Trogir so if you arrive by car or camper van you will have to park in the public car park which is located just outside the old town's northern walls. Simply cross over the bridge from the mainland and turn right. Parking spaces are hard to find in July and August, so many people opt to take the bus instead. The bus station is situated not far from the bridge, on the Jadranska Magistrala.

Hotels
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There are hotels in Trogir but I haven't stayed in any because we parked the camper in the car park and slept overnight there. However, we did eat in the Restoran Fontana which is part of a hotel situated in the old town. I was told by the locals that this is the best hotel and restaurant in the old town. The restaurant has a great atmosphere and you can sit outside on the terrace where you can absorb the buzzing atmosphere of the busy riva or watch the amazing sunsets casting amber shadows on luxurious yachts moored on the waterfront. The hotel and restaurant are open all year and the restaurant specialises in seafood. My favourite - prawns cooked in garlic butter, white wine and chillies.

I think this covers most things and hope it gives you an idea of what Trogir has to offer. It is another beauty spot that I very nearly dismissed because of the tourists. I suppose if you visited in September the town and area would be very calm and really stunning but then sometimes it is nice to have some atmosphere and Trogir certainly has that.
Highly Recommended.

Further Reading - http://www.trogir-online.com/

Summary: A wonderful town, port and holiday resort.