Troodoscopia (Troodos (Cyprus))

Member Name: Praskipark

Product:	Troodos (Cyprus)
Date:	08/11/08 (198 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Striking scenery in a very tranquil mountain range

Disadvantages: If you go off the beaten track you can get lost

Yesterday I spent the whole day sorting out photographs from previous trips and reading through my scibbled travel notes. I came across some fantastic photos of my son and husband taken in the Troodos mountains. These date back from a trip of the island we did two years ago. My son was living in Athens at the time, it was Christmas, we wanted to travel and see the island so he agreed to meet us in Pathos as it was easy for him to fly from Athens to Limassol and then get a bus to Pathos. Some of the photos I am taking back to the UK as I have to go on Wednesday and I will be seeing family I haven't seen for a long time so I thought it would be nice to show these pics as they are always interested about my travels if sometimes they don't always approve.

Pathos was only a base really, somewhere to sleep. although the town itself and surounding area was very nice. Always having fidgety feet I can never stay put for long so within 24 hours from picking my son up, we hired a car and went into the mountains and here is my review.

Overview
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Cyprus is the most densely wooded area in the Mediterranean due to the afforestation programme which began during colonial rule. In the woods around Mount Olympus (1,953 metres high), the island's highest mountain, there is a wide range of nature trails from which to choose. In my view, the most beautiful of these paths winds for two hours through various vegetation zones of the mountain, at the same time providing an insight into the geology of the region. It runs from the Troodos forest station along a mountain stream to the idyllic Caledonian Falls and then on to sleepy Platres - a pleasant spot even at the height of summer and the Christmas holiday ( this is a popular time for the locals to visit after Christmas Day). Forest tracks through deserted terrain lead to Kykko, the richest monastery on Cyprus and close to where Achbishop Makarios is buried. Then it is on to to the forest station at Stavros tis Psokas. To cover this route in a hired car will take around two days that is without any long walks. Obviously you can just go out for a ride in the hills and return to your base but once I am on the road I like to keep going until I have surveyed the whole area.

The countryside around the abandoned Turkish villages of Souskiou in the sparsely populated Diarizos valley serves as a reminder of the horrors suffered by the inhabitants during the civil war. In some ways it reminds me of the area travelling by car/bus from Orebic (Croatia) to Mostar. You will see many derelict properties.


Omodos
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The wine village of Omodos is certailnly one of the prettiest places in Cyprus. The white houses with blue doors, shady vine harbours and lovingly tended flowers are reminiscent of the Cyclades Islands. Old women knitting in the shade of the mulberry trees while sleepy cats sprawl on the window ledges. If you fancy yourself as an amateur geologist you will definitely enjoy the two hour walk from Omodos to Kato Platres. The vineyards end above the village where the valley narrows. It is not the climate nor the altitude that limits vine cultivation, but the soil. The light chalk on which vines thrive gives way abruptly to brownish-grey volcanic tuff. Around Kato Platres this changes to volcanic diabase before the primary rocks of the Troodos mountains push their way to the surface.

In winter this area can be very sunny yet cold but it is also pleasantly cool in the summer. Pano Platres (1,128 metres) has been a favourite with the British since colonial times. Like the Indian hill stations, the predominant colours in Platres, a village hidden away amid dense woodland, are green and red. Brooks babble at the verges of the steep roads and a peaceful, almost weary atmosphere prevails. The principal occupation of many holidaymakers seems to be watching the passers-by.

Trooditissa Monastery
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This beautiful monastery stands at 1,424 metres and is hidden away at the head of a fertile valley, under huge walnut and plane trees. Founded over a thousand years ago after an icon of Mary attributed to the evangelist Luke was discovered here, it became the summer residence of the Bishop of Pathos. But it has burnt down on more than one occasion since and the buildings are relatively recent. In the monastery church (1731), young women pilgrims come not only to worship the miracle-working Virgin Mary but also to put on a silver-coated belt which is said to help them to conceive a boy.

I have been to the Troodos in winter and summer but my timing has never coincided with the opening of the monastery so I am sorry but I am unable to comment on the works inside. The monastery is open daily from 9am until noon and from 2-8pm. It certainly is stunning from the outside especially when the cloud is low as it gives it a magical Narnia feel and because of it's setting can be seen from the lower valleys below.

A small holiday resort grew up at the village of Troodos during the British colonial era. Tavernas, hotels, stalls, a post office and a petrol station meet the needs of most visitors. This is not as touristy as you might think and because of it's setting is quite picturesque. The stalls alone are very interesting as most of the goods on sale are home-made foods from the mountains and also hand knitted garments. Four relatively easy nature trails that can be followed wearing trainers start here. Leaflets about the walks should be available in boxes at the start. They show the route and give explanations in English about the sites. Most tourist offices will also supply them.


The Caledonian Trail
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This trail follows a shady path down to Platres. It runs alongside a stream that flows even in summer and lower down tumbles noisily over a waterfall. Nature lovers particularly will be interested in this trail with its changing range of vegetation. Troodos pines and the rare black poplars thrive higher up, while more typical for the medium altitudes are golden oaks, Aleppo pines and the bright reddish brown strawberry trees that stand out through the thicket.

The Artemis or Chionistra Trail
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This trail circles Mount Olympus (1,953 metres) without any steep gradients. Cypriots call their highest mountain Chionistra, meaning 'frost bite.' The Royal Air Force maintains a radio and listening station on the summit. The huge spherical structures could be seen as one of the giant Digenis's golf balls. From December to the end of February the Cyprus Ski Club operates ski lifts up the slopes.

In the winter the Marathassa valley is covered with snow and the winter we were there it was absolutely stunning. Nearly every photograph I have is of this valley. I was fascinated because the soft, white, winter clouds were so fluffy and low in the sky that they actually met the snow on the mountain top and the trails that circled it. The whole area was a blanket of white with like a misty but glassy glow.

In the spring when I visited the pevious year, the valley was covered with a veil of white cherry blossom. Quince, plums and pears also grow on the terraces that were painstakingly carved out of the hillsides by earlier generations. Many of the gardens have grown wild, reverting to their natural state which is how I prefer it.

A modest spa has been established in Kalopanayiotis around a spring of sulphurous water. Modern pilgrims also come to visit the Ioannis Lambadistis monastery. The 11th century basilica is adorned with some fine frescoes. The Roman Catholic Chapel was added in the 15th century and the murals here betray clearly western influences. In the 18th century another church roofed with barrel vaulting was added and the silver coated skull of the town's patron saint is kept here. Olive and grape presses are displayed in the east wing of the monastery.

Kykko
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This is definitely off the beaten track but worth a visit because nestled in a remote spot surrounded by pine trees lies Cyprus's richest and most powerful monastery. The abbey formerly owned two estates as far away as the Black Sea coast and it is still the biggest landowner on Cyprus. When the Turks plundered the monastery in 1821, they are said to have made off with 16 camel loads of gold and silver. More pilgrims visit Kykko that any other monastery on the island. Many of the visitors come to express their thanks for a miracle attributed to Kykko and give presents or declare that the monastery will benefit from their inheritance. They no doubt hope that when the Day of Judgement comes, such acts of generosity will act in their favour.

The most important holy object is the icon of the Virgin Mary painted by St Luke which was presented to the monastery by the Byzantine Emperor Alexis Commenus in 1100. He was giving thanks to Isaiah, the monk who founded the monastery and who miraculously cured his daughter of gout. A silver mounting specially made in 1795 masks the icon, thought to be too sacred to gaze upon. No one has set eyes on it since that date.

On Throni tis Panayia or St Mary's throne, half an hour away to the west of the monastery, lies the grave of Archbishop Makarios. This senior religious dignitary and first president of Cyprus started his career as a novice in Kykko and for all his life had a close affinity with its religious community. A wishing tree hung with rags stands near his grave, testifying to the fact that even today Cypriots accord him almost saint like status.

If you wish to venture further into the woods beyond Kykko then I suggest you walk ( not in trainers but in full hiking gear) or drive carefully. Mountain bikes would be fun but with a small car you may get stuck in some of the stoney, mountainous roads. A four wheel drive would do the job but to hire one of those will probably work out expensive. We have got lost on the odd occasion and got stuck in the mud so watch out!

Some of the last surviving Troodos cedars grow in the Valley of the Cedars. These fine trees, larger and more beautiful than their Lebanese counterparts, can live for over 600 years. The rare and timid moufflons also live in the valley. Just as the species was on the point of extinction, succesful attempts were made to breed it in captivity, and the national airline, Cyprus Airways, has adopted it as its emblem. Without binoculars, it may be necessary to wait a long time for a glimpse of this sheep-like creature in the wild.

The forest station at the idyllically located village of Stavros tis Psokas further up the Cedar Valley keep a herd of about 60 moufflons in a reserve. If you like sheep then give this reserve a visit. They are quite nervous critters but have very pretty faces.

Summary
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I really can't recommend The Troodos mountains enough. It is a special mountain area; green, beautiful, tranquil and when the mist falls has a dreamlike quality. As you make your decline down the mountain region as the sun is setting it is like you are all alone in an imaginary land.

Out of all the places I have visited I was pleasantly surprised with Cyprus and the Troodos. The island was more beautiful than I expected and the mountains left a lasting impression. The people of Cyprus are warm, friendly and extremely laid back which are admirable qualities. Highly Recommended.

I will also say that it is very cheap and easy to rent a small car in Cyprus. You just go and pick up the keys and drive off - no paperwork or interrogation or fuss over credit cards. You don't even have to take it back to where you hired the car from - you leave it at your hotel/ accommodation or at the airport. They do the rest. Talk about being laid back - Brilliant.

Summary: A well worth hike in the mountains.