Western Australia - the better half of the Land Down Under? (Western Australia)

Name: Miss Gretta

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Product:	Western Australia
Date:	21/02/07 (138 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Natural beauty, pristine beaches, fantastic weather, laidback and friendly

Disadvantages: Long distances between destinations, not always easily accessible

I have noticed that the most common things that entice people to visit Australia are the weather, the wilderness and wide open spaces, the beaches and water sports, and perhaps a feeling that Australians are generally quite relaxed and friendly people. All of these are very valid reasons to visit the Land Down Under and make the country a great destination both for families and for independent travellers. Obviously though, Australia is a very, very large country so the question is, where should a visitor choose to go?

Western Australia is a state that offers a chance to experience the outdoors lifestyle that Australia is famous for, so in that sense it is perhaps strange that it isn’t closer to the top of most tourists’ list of places to visit, however it does pose some potential problems for time-restricted travellers. Perth, the capital city of Western Australia, is one of the most isolated cities in the world. It is approximately a 4 hour plane ride away from cities on the east coast of Australia (such as the popular destinations like Sydney, Melbourne, and the Gold Coast), so if you can only spare a couple of weeks for your holiday it probably isn't worth trying squeeze in both the western and eastern seaboards.

For this reason a lot of visitors choose stick to the east coast where it is possible to see a little of everything. It is relatively easy to travel between the major cities (Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide), plus there are beautiful coastal, mountainous, and rural areas within a day or so of travel from the urban centres. The downside is that these areas, by virtue of being more accessible, have become more touristy and therefore perhaps a less authentic experience than some less travelled places around the country.

If your main interest is the great outdoors, Western Australia may well be the perfect destination. Perth has a population of about 1.5 million, which is over three quarters of the total state population – that means there’s a lot of land with not a whole lot of people on it and you’re sure to be able to find some quiet places all to yourself. Outside the city you can drive for miles on long, straight roads and often feel truly alone with the environment. The landscape is starkly, almost savagely beautiful and the sunsets have to be seen to be believed.

The beaches are one of the true gems of W.A. and you’ll find something to suit you whether you’re looking for a sheltered, safe place for a day at the beach with young children, a trendy hang-out place for the young and beautiful, a wild surfing ride, or your very own private stretch of coast. The only problem is that to really see a lot of the best places outside of the city, you’ll need a car because whilst there are reasonable bus or train services to most regions from Perth, travelling within the towns and surrounds can pose problems if you don’t have private transport.

Perth city itself is oft remarked by visitors to be a very pretty, clean, and well-organised city, it is safe and has a good variety of culture, shopping, and nightlife for its size. The central city flanks the beautiful Swan River and feels mildly cosmopolitan without being overly crowded or as expensive as Sydney or Melbourne. The CBD and central shopping areas are easy to explore on foot or via the free bus service that runs through the heart of the city. However, Perth actually has several ‘centres’ and these can be somewhat difficult to explore without an insider to help you and, again, the public transport leaves something to be desired once you get out of the central areas.

A brief breakdown of the city goes something like this: visit the funky café strip of arty Mt Lawley for good coffee, relaxed pubs and restaurants, and an eclectic collection of boutique, alternative, and second-hand shopping; for more up-market shopping and to mingle with the beautiful people try Claremont or Subiaco, these places also have good coffee and food though are sometimes a little more pricey; Cottesloe, right on the coast and with its own very popular beach, is a haven of ice cream, sun-downer drinks overlooking the water, and surf shops; Fremantle is readily accessible by train and makes a fantastic day trip for gallery visits, eating out, nightlife, and shopping. For those interested in fun after the sun goes down pick up a copy of the free street press magazine ‘Xpress’ published every Thursday and which lists all the major events and venues in the city.

A number of smaller towns in W.A. are also well worth the visit - Margaret River is a hedonist’s heaven with stunning beaches and surfing, a great selection of galleries and artists’ studios, chocolate, fudge, and cheese factories if you’re feeling indulgent, and numerous vineyards, many of which are world renowned for their excellent wines and restaurants. It's also a comfortable 3.5 hour drive from Perth through exquisite countryside and impressive Karri forests. Broome, right up in the north of the state, is a popular beach resort retreat and if you can spare the time to drive up there rather than flying you will be treated to some incredible scenery.

A great day trip or relaxing few days away is Rottnest Island, just off the coast of Perth. The island is reached by a short trip on regular ferries from Perth and Fremantle and is all about beaches, bush walks, camping, snorkelling and bike rides. The island is also home to the very unique 'quokkas', mammals that are basically like very small kangaroos and are extremely cute - just don't feed them! Be warned though that Rottnest is very popular with both West Australians and tourists so you'll need to book ahead if you want to stay overnight.

If you’re interested in seeing some of the famous ‘Outback’ I recommend heading out past Kalgoorlie (the centre of the mining industry in W.A.) to Lake Ballard. The ‘lake’ is actually a huge salt lake and as part of the Perth International Arts Festival in 2003 the sculptor Antony Gormley produced an amazing collection of ethereal figural sculptures, based on the 200 or so residents of nearby Menzies, which have become part of a permanent installation in the landscape. The striking red earth is patterned by crystal salt formations like a never ending stretch of lily pads and the heat makes the eerie bronze sculptures shimmer and seem to move in the distance. It is a very unique experience that I highly recommend. Again though, the major drawback is that it is a very long way to travel (about 6 hours from Perth) and the round trip would take at least two days if you’re travelling from Perth.

You could see a decent amount of Perth and Western Australia in about 10 days I would suggest, but you could just as easily fill 2 or 3 weeks if you're interested in exploring the more far flung areas. So, Sydney or Melbourne are still the places to go if you want true big-city hustle and bustle but if you're after something a little more relaxing, W.A. might just be worth the journey.

Summary: All the beauty of Australia without as much tourist hype.