The History of Chester (Chester in General)

Member Name: mattydalton

Product:	Chester in General
Date:	05/12/03 (2195 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Massive culture and historical importance, Beautiful sights, Growing all the time

Disadvantages: Rising cost of living, The odd vagrant bothering people

Rather than write about how Chester is now, I decided to take a different approach and give you a history of the city from day one to present day. Admittedly, the history is quite sketchy, but I found it quite difficult to find more detail than is already included. Naturally, any further information on the topic would be gratefully received, and if I manage to find anything else out for myself, I will also add that. Due to difficulties in finding information, I found it easier to write the review in a chronological order of date (Sorry if it seems to jump about a bit!!). Anyway, back to the subject of my review.

In AD 43, Roman Emperor Claudius visited the site that was later to become Chester, during the third invasion of Britain. At this time London was founded. In the year of AD 74 , Chester was originally founded as the Roman fortress of Deva, contained within the loop of the river Dee. The fortress, like many Roman fortresses, was constructed in the shape of a playing card. Inside the walls, you would find 24 hectares of land, or about 240,000 square metres. Enclosed within these walls, a standard grid pattern was seen implemented in the construction of streets and military buildings along with the cross which marks the centre of the city. The Roman wall, or the walls as they are commonly known amongst the locals, was built alongside a large turf bank, making it difficult to launch an attack on the city. The walls were also well served defensively by the twenty six towers dotted around and the four fortified gateways, which can still be seen today.

The first sketchy bit comes here. Between AD 74 and 100 I have struggled to find any history of the events. In AD 100, the gradual redevelopment of the Roman fortress Deva and the amphitheatre in stone began, and a civilian settlement began to grow outside of the city walls. All I know about the following 283 years is that Chester, or Deva as it was, remained Roman. I think that maybe this period co
incided with the Roman invasion and, once conquered, the Romans lost interest. The fortifications they had built had obviously been neglected, as when they abandoned Chester the fortress fell into ruin. This is the most logical explanation I can come up with for this happening. Once the Romans had left, the Saxons extended the walls all the way down to the river Dee, creating a fortified setup against any potential Danish invasions.

Another seeming gap in Chester's recorded history can be seen between AD 383 and 603. Saint Augustine, the North African Bishop and Doctor of the Roman Catholic Church, meets Chester's Celtic bishops in Chester, or Legeceaster meaning the city of legions. Chester seemingly rejects Saint Augustine's authority sparking the tragic Battle of Chester in AD 616. During this conflict, 1200 monks, who had prayed for the enemy, are slaughtered by Northumbrians. Solon, the king of Britons, and king Cetula were also removed. In AD 620, a large fleet gathered by King Edwin of Northumbria, Deira and Bernicia, a fleet later used to capture Anglesey and the Isle of Man. By AD 660, a new church had been constructed on the site where Chester Cathedral can now be found, by King Wulphere. He also constructed a convent on this site, which he dedicated to saints Peter and Paul. 29 years later, in AD 689 if you'd forgotten, St. John's Church was founded by Aethelred, the King of Mercia.

In AD 779, Mercia's King Offa became King of all England and three years later the Anglo-Saxons marked the Anglo-Welsh border with the construction of the Offa's Dyke. This was a barrier, built from earth, which stretched from the most northern point of the Welsh border, which happened to be Chester and its most southern point which turned out to be Bristol. Nowadays, there is a community called Broughton where the Offa?s Dyke pub can be found. 15 years later, King Offa was founding things again, this time St. Bridgets Church, whi
ch was situated in Lower Bridge St for all those locals wondering. This church remained a fixture in Chester for over a thousand years, before being lost to the inclusion of Grosvenor St in the city's profile. Chester's next hundred years are relatively boring, with only the odd appointment of a king. The only major event was Chester's capture by King Egbert of Wessex.

In AD 894, Chester suffered a Danish invasion. Sadly, King Alfred's army was to arrive too late, and was therefore unable to prevent the capture of the fortress. Alfred decided to wage a war of wit rather than aggression, and the Danes were forced to leave, due to a miserable existence. Alfred?s men went through the area destroying all corn and cattle they came across, causing the Danes to turn their dietary attentions to horse flesh, yummy!! Predictably, the Danes couldn't handle it, and gave up the fortress and fled to Wales. Hurray for Chester!! Victory was short lived, however, as AD 897 saw the Danes return for the winter, seizing as many inhabitants, cattle and assets they could before leaving again. In AD 907, the Saxons refortified the city against the dangers of marauding Danes.

AD 1066 saw the Norman invasions. Chester, uncannily was resilient again, being the last English stronghold to fall in 1070. King Harold is reported to have died in the Battle of Hastings, but it is believed quite strongly that King Harold fled to Chester and lived the rest of his life near St. John's Church near the banks of the Dee. It is rumoured that King Harold's ghost haunts these buildings which are situated behind the amphitheatre. Following the Norman conquest, the appointment the first Earl of Chester, Hugh Lupus who was William the Conqueror's nephew, in 1071, he built Chester Castle, which is now partly used as the crown courts, to dominate the Welsh border, reinforcing the city once more. In 1092 the Saxon Church became a Benedictine abbey. 47 years lat
er, in 1139, Chester Market received its first mention in the history books and in 1208 the first shopping charter was officially used. Only the people of Chester were allowed selling rights under this charter, with only annual fairs giving outsiders a chance to sell within the city. The charter was confirmed in 1239 by Henry III, and this remained until the Great Charter of 1506, which will be covered later on.

In 1236 a Dominican friary was established, which is now known as Black Friars, located near the police station. The following year saw the appointment of Chester's first mayor, William the Clerk as he was known. In 1251, Chester Castle, built only 180 year previously was rebuilt in stone by King Henry II. Three years later, Prince Edward, who was to later become King Edward I, was attributed with the role of Earl of Chester. The Kaleyards gate, which still stand today, with an accompanying tea room, was built by the monks of Chester in 1275. The traditions of locking the gate at 8pm and reopening them at 6am still stand today, reinforcing the historic feel of the city. 1277 saw King Edward I make his base for the conquest of North Wales in Chester. The following year, the city was devastated by the 'Great Fire of Chester' which nearly the whole of the city contained within the walls.

The thirteenth century also witnessed the construction of Chester's most famous exhibit, The Rows. These include shops or warehouses at street level with a series of half timbered buildings which were joined with long walkways on the first floor. The layout can be seen in not just one, but four streets in Chester. These streets are Bridge St, Northgate St, Eastgate St and Watergate St, which all meet at the central cross. The rows are so famous due to them being the only existing rows in the country. The first quarter of the fourteenth century saw more developments in the city as it became an independent Palatinate, what I believe to be a terr
itory under the jurisdiction of a Count Palatine. Basically this meant that
Cheshire was a county where royal privileges and exclusive rights of jurisdiction were held by its lord, or earl as in this case. 1307 saw the introduction of the Murage tax, supposedly to pay for the upkeep of the city walls. Three years later at the site which is now the cathedral, St. Werburgh's shrine was built followed by the erection of the water tower on the city walls, at a bargain price of £100. The conclusion of the first half of the fourteenth century is rather more tragic than the beginning, as the Black Death, which killed a third of England's population, tore through Chester.

In 1375 the Chester Mystery Plays were first performed, something which can still be seen today. Mystery in old English means trade guilds, or for the working people. Two years later, Chester's High Cross was first mentioned in the history books. The High Cross is a sandstone post about five feet tall, and I believe it was originally created as a recreation of a crucifix which had been destroyed in a previous civil war. Upon construction, the cross was used to mark the central point of the city, but now is mainly used to stick direction posts on. Sad really. Anyway, moving on, the next important issue is the Bluebell Inn, Chester's oldest and only surviving real medieval inn. Most of the building was built between 1250-1400 but some parts date all the way back to the eleventh century. Four years later, the Welsh were barred from Chester on pain of death. I believe pain of death to refer to the creation of a bylaw allowing cestrians, inhabitants of Chester, to use a crossbow to kill any Welshman found inside the city walls after a certain time of night, I believe to be 9pm. This bylaw has lived hundreds of years, although I believe it was recently dismissed. As I say, I'm not sure of the link here, but is my most logical explanation of the two events. 67 years later in 1
470, the central tower of St. John's Church, which was the cathedral as explained earlier, collapsed. Again, more vagueness as I do not know the full extent of the collapse, or when or whether it was rebuilt. In the final year of the century, 1499, the Midsummer Watch parade begins for the first time.

In 1503, Chester underwent more modernisation, as the first proper pavements were laid at the cross. The Great Charter was granted three years later, granting Chester a mayor. From my searching I have found the first mayor to be William the Clerk in 1237, however I have also found information to suggest that Chester received its first mayor in 1506, due to the Great Charter. Make of it what you will, as I have not managed to find any further evidence to confirm either appointment's claim as the first. Anyway, moving on, how did the locals react to the Great Charter? Well the answer is, very well indeed. The locals had a sharp eye for business and acted immediately to include coal and cattle markets. Names were given to the rows according to what they were used for. The names for these rows were the ironmongers row, shoemakers row and a cooks row. Within this multi-purpose shopping centre, a pepper alley and fish shambles could be found. As if this was not enough, there was a linen hall, in what is now Linenhall Mews, where the Linenhall stables can be found. Chester also featured a fruit, root and herb market. In those days Chester was seen as a complete shopping city. If you wanted something, Chester most probably sold it.

Between 1508 and 1510 St. Ursula's hospital was built which was quite lucky really due to the misfortunes to come. In 1517, the plague struck Chester once more, fortunately this time with less fatal effects, perhaps due to the fortuitous recent construction of the previously mentioned hospital. Due to everybody having to stay at home though, the grass around the central cross in Chester grew to a massive whole foot hi
gh. Shocking!! 1538 saw Henry VIII going mad with his dissolution of the monasteries routine, as three friaries
were seen to surrender on the fifteenth of August. By 1541, Henry VIII had shut down Chester Abbey, formerly known as the Saxon Church, temporarily, before reopening it the following year to serve the newly created Diocese of Chester. These events came about due to a disagreement Henry VIII was having with the Pope. The Pope would not grant him divorce, as it was not in the interests of the religion, according to the Pope. Henry VIII, however, disagreed and thought that he should be allowed to get shut of any wife who bore a daughter instead of a son. Inevitably, Henry VIII decided to make his own church. This created six new bishoprics, one of which happened to be Chester, hence the new cathedral and Diocese. One highlight to come out of this period of madness was the first Chester Races, which took place on the Roodee in 1540. The same site is still used today for the yearly racing events. 1547 saw Henry VIII dissolving St. Ursula's hospital, with it continuing as Sir Thomas' Almshouses. I think these Almshouses are now known as the Bluecoat almshouses, and can be found just outside of the north gate by the canal bridge. This, as far as I can tell from research, is the last action by Henry concerning the city as he died in this year.

1551 saw the last performances of the legendary Mystery Plays, a gap of 400 years ensuing. I have never seen the Mystery Plays, and have very little understanding of them, but would be interested in any input. I think they were some sort of religious cult, as they are performed in the cathedral grounds nowadays. Talking about religion, George Marsh, a Protestant martyr, was burnt at the stake a mere four years later. Just as things seem to be going from bad to worse under the reign of Henry, there was light at the end of the tunnel, but not before the boys of Chester were seen to be playing football on
the frozen river Dee during the great frost of 1564. Three years later and four taverns were licensed in the great walled city, and just another year later Northgate Street was paved. Things were beginning to look up. Mixed fortunes were again on the horizon though. Just four years later a massive proportion of St. John's church collapsed, and eleven years after this the choir and chapels were pulled down.

In 1591, Stanley Palace was built as the town house of the Stanley's, who were from Alderley. This family were the sergeants of the Watergate in these times. Nowadays, it is free to view, open to the public Monday to Friday, between the hours of 10am and 4pm. Its main use today, apart from being a tourist attraction, is for meetings. Slightly down the road from here stands the Bishop Lloyd's House, built in the seventeenth century. This building holds panels detailing various biblical scenes. Another historical point on this street is a building bearing the inscription "Gods Providence is my Mine Inheritance", just below the first floor window. These words refer to a plague in the seventeenth century. During this time, this was the only building in the street to remain unaffected by the plague.

New laws were introduced in 1595 forbidding plays and bearbaiting within the city and four years later the bullring was removed form the cross. I am not sure if the bullring was used for the purpose intended, in fact I have a suspicion that it was possibly used for crucifixions, but I have found no evidence to support this theory. The river Dee was the source of some more misery four years later when the weir was broken and the mills remained totally dry from February to May. This was disastrous for the city as a good shipping trade existed prior to this. The drying out of the river meant the cease of passage through the town and alternative routes were therefore sought. As the river recovered its status, the shipping routes reverte
d to include Chester. In the thirteenth century, Chester was the second most important port in Britain. In 1683, Chester's port trade was dominant with the shipyards recording more ships built than in nearby Liverpool. 50 years later, the decline of the Dee began. Work began to canalise parts of the Dee to form what is now known as the Shropshire Union Canal. A few years later in 1739 due to lowered water levels, the river is frozen solid for a quarter of the year and, according to records, a sheep was roasted on the ice. 1771 saw the opening of the new Dee cut and 91 ships docked in the city. By the early part of the 19th century, its status was lost due to the silting of the river estuary, which was accelerated in later years by reclamation of land processes.

The early 1600s saw much activity, again events were varied in forms of joy and sorrow. At the start of the century, the Tudor House was built in Lower Bridge Street in 1603. This building still stands today and is used as a sandwich bar. It is clearly detailed on the exterior of the building that this is the Tudor House, with both the name of the building and the year of construction etched into the face. In the two years following, the plague struck again and was to claim thousands of victims. During this period, the oldest remaining Cathedral bell was cast, the end of an era!! More construction work ensued as a new viewing gallery was built on the racecourse in 1607 and just a year later, the Wolf gate contained in the city walls was rebuilt. Eight years later, royalty visited in the form of King James. Upon this visit he walked along the shoemakers row. I think this is the row found on East gate Street, but don't quote me on it. The ironmongers row detailed earlier is situated on Northgate Street and I believe Watergate Street or Bridge Street to be the cooks row.

Chester's historic walls were to feature once more in the city's history between 1643 and 1646 as the city
was besieged by Parliamentarian armies during the Civil War. The Roman built fortifications duly played their part in defending their keepers and as peace returned to the city so did its mixed fortunes. Elegant Georgian terraces and squares began to spring up all over the place, enhancing the visual impact of the already impressive city. Just a year later, progress was delayed once more as more than two thousand Cestrians fell victim to the plague. The following hundred years sees mostly peaceful times and focus is dedicated to progression rather than aggression. In 1657 the first Chester to London coach is established. Northgate Street still to this day holds signs of mileages to various cities in the country by the Pied Bull. The Midsummer shows are forbidden eleven years later in 1678 by the mayor, again I presume these have some religious connections.

Continuing the peaceful times again, the city walls were converted to house a peaceful promenade for visitors and inhabitants alike. These walls are now one of the major tourist attractions, as complete sets of Roman walls are hard to find. 1745 saw a momentary return to feuds as the Jacobite rebellion saw the Watergate and Northgate both blocked up. Staying on the subject of gates, the medieval East gate was replaced with an arch in 1768 and a Roman gate was found in the old masonry. Construction continued to alter the appearance of the city five years later the library was built, a feature that can still be seen today at the back of the bus station. Four years later two Roman hypocausts were dug up, reinforcing the great Roman history of the city. A hypocaust, just in case you are wondering, is an ancient Roman system in which heated air is circulated under the floor and in between double walls, acting as a central heating system if you like. A welcome return to trivial matters is seen a year prior to this as a horseman rides the two miles around the top of the city walls in just nine and a half minute
s for a bet. I don't know if that was a record, but I do know that in 1784 a Chester to London mail coach set a new record of a staggeringly quick time of 22 hours and 45 minutes!!

Much of Chester Castle was reconstructed in 1788 in a classical style, as the regeneration of the city was to continue. Five years later the Bridge of Sighs was built over the canal in between the Northgate and the Blue Coat Almshouses. I believe these almshouses were used to keep nutters inside and the Bridge of Sighs was used for the purpose off hanging. The site is now a particular hot spot for paranormal activity. Twelve years later, the pillory and stocks were removed from Chester Cross and three years into the 19th century saw the prohibition of bull baiting at the same site. The Gaol, or jail as we call it now, in Northgate Street was closed in 1808. I believe that this building is the Blue Coat Almshouses. All in all, Chester was becoming a more attractive place to live. Civilisation was flourishing in the town. The shopping trade was very strong and both recent and future developments in the city could only strengthen its status. In 1807, gas pipes were first laid in the city, a luxury we today take for granted. Fourteen years later the lamb row collapsed into the street. I have a sneaking suspicion that these were situated on East gate Street where a row of modern high street stores can now be found, such as Boots, BHS, Virgin Mega store, HMV, McDonalds and Marks and Sparks.

Princess Victoria, as she was in 1832, opened the Grosvenor Bridge, situated near the racecourse and police station, which now links the city to the valuable business park on Wrexham Rd, containing the European headquarters of the MBNA Bank. In 1852, the first Queens Park suspension bridge is built across the Dee, allowing passage from the Groves, where the Boathouse Pub can now be found, into Hand bridge. 1836 sees the tolls end at all of the city gates, further allowing out of town tr
ade to enter. More developments on this front are seen just a year later, as the construction of the Chester to Crewe railway is begun in 1836. Eleven years later, the Chester General Station is opened. Amenities are the next thing to be included in the features of this growing city as the City Baths are opened near the Water Tower in 1848. Five years later in 1853, King Charles Tower on the walls is converted to an observatory.

The following fifty years include more developments and progressions in many forms, the first being the last public hanging in Chester, occurring in 1866. I have not found information to support the theory that this meant the end of all hanging. I think this just stopped the hangings on the Bridge of Sighs, but private hangings possibly continued. A year later an extremely famous man was to visit the city as Charles Dickens came and gave a reading at Chester Music Hall. The Music Hall later became a cinema in 1921. I think this building was in Brook St, and if I am correct, it was to become the bingo, before it moved to the Mecca site by Gorse Stacks. The following year saw more progression and famous faces visiting as the Prince of Wales reopened the Town Hall. The Roman connection was again strengthened in 1881 with the discovery of Roman gravestones inside the city walls close to the Northgate. Seven years later Chester?s status as a leading English city is reaffirmed as the city becomes a County Borough. 1892 sees the racecourse cash in on the demand for horseracing, as the Roodee is enclosed during races, and an admission charge of one shilling is introduced. This is a vital part of Chester?s modern economy, as the races are very popular, and bring a lot of money to the area, as race-goers spend generously in local shops, pubs and restaurants. Taxi firms also benefit greatly from the vast amount of people in the city for the annual events. 1896 sees the first electric lights installed in the city and three years later the East
gate Clock is erected in celebration of Queen Victoria?s Diamond Jubilee. A strong Victorian presence was emerging in the city as time passed. By 1903, transport within and around the city had developed quite handsomely, with the installation of electric trams. Chester now had a valuable train and tram network to replace the diminished ports, continuing its important trading status. 1917 saw the return of trivial matters as a local publican decided to take his car out for a spin on the frozen river Dee!!

One of the most important discoveries in Chester's history was to follow in 1929, as the Roman Amphitheatre was uncovered. Along with other discoveries, the amphitheatre confirmed that Chester was most definitely an important Roman town. One of the things that make the discovery so important is that when it was discovered it was the largest stone amphitheatre to have been discovered. People from all over the world come to Chester purely to see the Roman heritage. Most people in Chester take our rich culture for granted, but Chester's Roman connections are very strong and the historical sites are something that we should be proud to hold. The almost two thousand year old amphitheatre, built in about AD 86, was excavated in the 60s and by 1972 had been opened to the public. In its day, the amphitheatre probably seated about seven thousand people, more than the local football clubs stadium holds now (a measly 6000!!). Within the excavated wall the arena wall, main entrances to the north and east and a shrine dedicated to the Greek goddess Nemesis can be seen. The shrine dedicated to Nemesis, the Greek goddess of vengeance, is a strange feature for a Romano-British amphitheatre. The original altar is kept in the Grosvenor Museum about 200 yards down the road in the Grosvenor Museum, which sits by the Castle, but a replica has been placed beside the arena in its place. Around the grass banks of the arena Little St. John Street makes a wide curve, a road
which probably went right over the top of the site. Still today, half of the arena is located under the grounds of a convent. I believe this is a listed building and this is why the site has not already been further excavated, but there is still fierce debate over whether this building should make way for the total excavation of the amphitheatre, a site I believe would become an even bigger tourist attraction given the correct attention, and possible reconstruction of the tiers. If inclined, the local council could totally rebuild the site to its former glories and re-enactments could be held, something which would benefit the tourist culture, and the relevant history for the youngsters to study in the city.

Chester has continued throughout the ages to prosper as a trading city, and has grown and grown. The regeneration work continued in 1935 when the Odeon cinema was opened near the library in Northgate Street. 1951 saw the return of the mystery plays. These plays are acted out every four years, I think, taking place in the Cathedral grounds. 1966 saw Queen Elizabeth I visit Chester Races for the first time and more royal development occurred seven years later as Prince Charles was awarded ?Freedom of the city?. The racecourse suffered a minor setback in 1985 as the County Stand burnt down, but has now been replaced with a brick structure stand, and looks amazing on a race day when filled. 1992 saw a bronze statue erected in the Town Hall Square, which most of the locals find quite hideous, but is a curious sight for tourists, fascinating all who visit. The statue was erected as 'a celebration of Chester'. In 1997, the nave floor of the Cathedral was replaced, and a couple of years later much of the city centre was repaved, ridding the town of many of the cobbled streets that were once present with smooth surfaces.

The regeneration of the city continues today, with new properties constantly springing up in place of old derelict sites. Ch
ester is now seen as a very desirable place to live with a booming economy. It is now one of the richest cities in the land, and many posh wine bars are being opened around the city. The shopping has continually improved in the city with many old sites being redeveloped into shopping centres, such as the Greyhound Park, where the local football and greyhound stadiums could once be found, and Broughton Retail Park. The price of housing has rocketed in the city and city centre apartments boast values of £100,000 upwards. The development of the business park on Wrexham Road has been crucial in attracting people as well as businesses to the city. Things, as Tony Blair would say, can only get better!

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