An A-Z Guide to Edinburgh (Edinburgh in General)

Member Name: Crazy-Christian

Product:	Edinburgh in General
Date:	25/06/01 (251 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: It's beautiful!, It has a castle!, It's very centralised

Disadvantages: The weather (sometimes!), A tad expensive

I hate A - Z guides, don’t you? They’re so superficial and contrived. I mean, what are the chances you’re going to find exactly one entry for each letter of the alphabet? You’re bound to miss something out and what happens when you get to the entry for X? It’s always either obvious, a cheat or obscure! So, with that in mind, here’s my A to Z guide for Edinburgh!

My qualifications should suffice. I was born and bred here and still work and live in Scotland’s capital city. I know that there is no way you could ever cover everything about Edinburgh (I could easily do 10,000 words, but I’ll take words off for good behaviour!), so I don’t mind missing some stuff out. This is very much a personal guide to this wonderful, cosmopolitan city of culture and commerce.

A is for - ARTHUR’S SEAT.

You have to visit here for one reason - THAT view! Arthur’s Seat is an extinct volcano and it’s distinctive shape can be seen from many places in the city. If you visit Holyrood Palace at the bottom of the Royal Mile, go into Holyrood Park and have a look. The ridged part is known as Salisbury Crags. It’s a nice hike up, only 825 feet (!), but there is also a one-way road that winds up and around and down the other side. The views over East Lothian are breath-taking, and as the road turns back towards the city centre keep your eyes open for the Castle appearing ahead of you, framed between the slopes of the hills - magnificent! The name may derive from the legend of King Arthur but is more likely a corruption of Archer’s Seat - in Gaelic, the volcano is called ‘Ard-Na-Said’ or ‘Height of Arrows’.

See: http://www.smoothhound.co.uk/tourism/edinburgh/art hurs-seat.html

B is for BOTANIC GARDENS

At the north side of the city centre, 10-15 minute walk, I would reckon, are the Royal Botanic Gardens. Flowers. And lots of them! Ther
e are some excellent greenhouses with interesting exotic plants and often some special exhibition or display. A walk around the grounds is worthwhile and it’s free. There is a fee for some parts.

See: http://www.rbge.org.uk/

C is for CASTLES

Edinburgh Castle is rightly famous - it just looks so impressive! I mean, there you are on Princes Street, right in the middle of town, shops on one side, castle looming over you on the other! I haven’t been there for years but my wife, Anne, took the kids there in May and found it very interesting. Joshua (6) and Nathan (4) were suitably entertained for several hours! It cost £7.50 for adults and £2 for kids (under five’s are free).

See: http://www.geo.ed.ac.uk/home/tour/castle.html

If you like castles you should also check out Craigmillar Castle. It is only 3 miles from the city centre but not on a direct bus route. Although smaller, and technically a ruin, it has been restored over the years and it is surprising how much there is to see here. Definitely recommended to take up a couple of hours. Prices are very reasonable.

See: http://www.geo.ed.ac.uk/scotgaz/features/featurefi rst1135.html

D is for DRINKING

Often said to be the national pastime, but not something I can help you with at all! So, I’ve turned to an expert, my colleague, Colin Valentine, who is Scottish Director of CAMRA as well as being on the National Executive (board of directors). Here’s what he had to say-

"I would recommend The Bow Bar in Upper Bow (Victoria Street), Cloisters in Brougham Place (Tollcross), Guildford Arms (West Register Street) and Thomsons in Morrison Street as pubs to drink in, in Edinburgh. Pubs to go and look at for their decor include the Cafe Royal, next door to the Guildford, Bennets Bar in Leven Street, Tollcross (probably the best pub, as opposed to beer, in Edinburgh), the Windsor Buffet at the top of Leith W
alk, the Roseburn Bar at Roseburn and, of course, the legendary Athletic Arms (The Diggers) on Angle Park Terrace."

Thanks for that, Colin, and cheers!

E is for EXPENSIVE

That’s right, I’m afraid. I feel we can be honest with each other, here. Edinburgh is an expensive place in which to live and eat, and you should be aware of that. However, it’s not all doom and gloom. There are lots of free things to do here, also, and many reasonably priced restaurants with good deals for food, but you will have to look for them. It must be capable of being done, though, because there are always backpackers and the like, with very little money, coming through the city.

F is for FESTIVAL and FRINGE

Wow, there is just so much that could be said here. Edinburgh is famous for it’s festival - it’s been going for over 50 years and is a tremendous celebration of the Arts. This year it lasts from 12 August until 1 September. It is impossible to describe what the city is like during this period! There is so much going on and there is a real buzz. Many of the shows are quite expensive but what I love are the free performances in the centre of town. True, you never know what you’re going to get, but often there are African drummers or Chilean pipers playing, creating quite a special atmosphere.

See: http://www.eif.co.uk/

The fringe started at the same time as the Festival and opens it up a bit. It is probably most famous for it’s comedy, as many famous comedians have taken their first step to fame here. There’s a very good chance you could see the stars of tomorrow first! It runs from 5 to 27 August, this year, but the popular shows often sell out so get a programme quickly and plan your visit!

See: http://www.edfringe.com/home.html

At this time of year, accommodation is very limited and extremely expensive. Book early or re-acquaint yourselves with
any friends or family you may have in the area!

G is for GREYFRIAR’S BOBBY & GALLERIES

Everyone has heard of the legend of this famous loyal dog, and possibly seen the film. The story is actually true and the statue of Bobby is a popular visit for tourists.

See: http://edinburgh.about.com/aboutuk/edinburgh/blbob by.htm



There are numerous art galleries in Edinburgh:


ANTHONY WOODD (formerly Malcolm Innes Gallery, Edinburgh)
BOURNE FINE ART
CALTON GALLERY
CHRISTIE'S
CITY ART CENTRE
THE DEAN GALLERY
THE EDINBURGH GALLERY
HANOVER FINE ARTS
INGLEBY GALLERY
LANDINGS GALLERY
THE LEITH GALLERY
NATIONAL GALLERY OF SCOTLAND
OPEN EYE GALLERY
PHILLIPS
THE ROYAL SCOTTISH ACADEMY
THE SCOTTISH GALLERY
SCOTTISH NATIONAL GALLERY OF MODERN ART
SCOTTISH NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
TALBOT RICE GALLERY
TORRANCE GALLERY


There is information about all of these at: http://www.artefact.co.uk/g-edi.htm#F

H is for HEART OF MIDLOTHIAN

Not just the name of Edinburgh’s inferior football team but also the site of an old tollbooth with the shape of a heart set into the cobble-stones. It’s Edinburgh tradition (albeit a dirty one!) to spit on the heart!

See: http://www.geo.ed.ac.uk/scotgaz/features/featurefi rst8035.html

Next to the heart, and rather more interesting, is St. Giles Cathedral. This is a quite magnificent building and is well worth seeing.

See: http://www.napier.ac.uk/depts/music/st-giles/st-gi les.html

I is for IKEA

Hmmm. Debated this one for a while but it is the only branch in Scotland. People used to go down to Gateshead for the day, the main reason being to stock up on Swedish furniture! The Edinburgh branch is on the southern outskirts of the city at Straiton and is only ten minutes away from my house. My wife is still wond
ering why I have had her locked-up for the past eighteen months!

See: http://www.ikea.co.uk/default.asp

J is for JOHN KNOX’S HOUSE

John Knox is famous as being the leader of the Scottish Reformation in the 16th Century, leading Scots from Catholicism to Protestantism. This is a famous landmark always popular with tourists.

See: http://www.smoothhound.co.uk/tourism/edinburgh/kno x-house.html

K is for KINGS THEATRE

There are several theatres in Edinburgh, befitting a city so dedicated to the Arts. Okay, so I couldn’t think of another ‘K’! (Someone will, no doubt, offer a much better alternative!) Find out more about them at:

http://www.firstcity.f9.co.uk/cul05.htm

L is for LITTER

Unfortunately this is a big problem in the city. So many of its inhabitants just don’t seem to care. The council is supposed to be starting some sort of initiative to clean up the streets starting this summer. So watch out - you could be fined on the spot for littering! One of the few bad points about the city.

M is for MUSEUMS

Once again there is an excellent choice. The best is probably the biggest, the Royal Museum of Scotland. This is huge and has added an extension in recent times devoted to the history of Scotland. Lots for kids to look at, too, and you could spend hours in here. My next favourite is the Museum of Childhood, which has loads of old children’s toys on display. Most museums are free of charge.

See: http://www.smoothhound.co.uk/tourism/edinburgh/mus eums.html

N is for NIGHTLIFE

Now, to me, a lively nightlife is staying up until after 11 to watch The West Wing on Channel 4! I am reliably informed, however, that the scene in Edinburgh is ‘jumping’, although this term may be out of date by the time you read this! I’ll have to point you elsewhere for more info on this one.

See: h
ttp://www.nights-out.com/edinburgh/clubs.shtml

O is for OBSERVATORY

The Royal Observatory, about 3 miles south of the city centre, is an interesting place to visit. It has a visitor centre with plenty to look at, and lots of hands-on things to do, and various exhibitions on at different times. I remember them having some fantastic photographs of stars. One of the most popular attractions is the public observing nights, but these are not available until October, when it gets dark earlier, obviously. Again, this is good for kids and adults, and you could spend between 2-4 hours here depending upon how interested you are in the subject in the first place.

See: http://www.roe.ac.uk/


P is for PRINCES STREET

Right in the heart of Edinburgh, this is the main road. With blocks of shops right down one side, and the famous Gardens on the other, all overshadowed by the looming Castle, this is a great place to start exploring. There are attractions right along the Garden side, like the Walter Scott Monument and the National Art Gallery. This is also where you’ll find the City of Edinburgh Tourist Information Centre and Accommodation Bureau.

Q is for QUEEN’S RESIDENCE

At the bottom of the Royal Mile you come across a modest little building called Holyrood Palace. This is, indeed, the Queen’s Residence in Edinburgh. Originally built in 1498 for James IV, the Palace you can see today dates from 1671, the time of Charles II. Allegedly (!) this is a true story: when I was 3 years old, some relatives from Northern Ireland took me with them to go round the Palace. They suddenly noticed that I had left the party and they began to look for me. Apparently, I had wandered under the rope into a restricted area and decided to have a lie down on the Queen’s bed! (Hang on, I’m suddenly wondering if this could be classed as treason!) There are no photographs, so I tend not to believe them!


R is for RESTAURANTS

This is definitely a weak link for Edinburgh. There are thousands of them but so many of them are average. They do go right across the board though from chains like McDonalds and Pizza Hut, to the more expensive Atrium and Witchery. The latter is an Edinburgh institution but I had a bad experience there I’m afraid. Jacksons on the High Street is an excellent high-class restaurant at decent prices, especially lunch time, but it is not child-friendly. A good place to take kids is Cuddies Brae, near Fort Kinnaird shopping park on the east side of the city, on the way out to Musselburgh. All the usual varieties such as Italian, Chinese, Indian and Mexican exist so there is some choice. There are also loads of coffee shops in Edinburgh now, a real boom area of late.

S is for SHOPPING

As mentioned, shops line one side of Princes Street. These are often your usual High Street stores, but there are a number of specialist stores suitable for tourists but they are expensive (there’s that word again!) Parallel to Princes Street is George Street, and this is where a lot of the exclusive shops lie. You could also spend a pleasant day starting at the top of the Royal Mile at Edinburgh Castle and working your way down to Holyrood Palace at the bottom, investigating all the shops along the way. There are plenty of food outlets too, to help keep your strength up! A good tip for some alternative shopping is to go down Cockburn Street. There are some more individual and unusual shops down here and some excellent record stores.

T is for TATTOO

The Edinburgh Military Tattoo is also famous world-wide. It takes place at the Esplanade of Edinburgh Castle and is a huge, colourful pageant of music and dance. The massed pipe bands are always popular This year it runs from 3-25 August and tickets cost between £9-26. This year will include the Cook Island Polynesian Dancers and a thrilling Highland Danc
e display; if you’ve seen this on the TV and fancy it, you will LOVE it. If you’re not too sure, it is definitely better live, as it is very atmospheric but it is not to everyone’s taste. Kids may well be bored. It is something I think everyone should try at least once!

See: http://www.edinburgh-tattoo.co.uk/

U is for UNIVERSITY

Yes, Edinburgh is not just for tourists - some people come here to have FUN! It has a very good reputation and was competing with St. Andrews for Prince William’s attendance. I have a couple of friends currently attending and they say it is very good. What more recommendation do you need! They also have plenty of part-time courses open to non-students; a colleague recently did a Film Criticism course which he thoroughly enjoyed. (And of course I went to Edinburgh University - but they turned me away as they already had someone to clean out the toilets!)

Ahem, see: http://www.ed.ac.uk/

V is for VAULTS

These are a set of underground vaults dating from the 18th Century. They were only discovered in the 1980s and you can now tour the dark rooms beneath what is now the South Bridge with Mercat Tours. They also do tours of Mary King’s Close, a similarly rediscovered underground building where plague victims were left to die in 1645. This is a genuinely creepy and unsettling experience and many people have reported seeing ghosts down there.

See: http://www.mercat-tours.co.uk/Edinburgh/tours.shtm l

W is for WEATHER

Well, we had to mention it! We do have summer here, for one hour, usually one afternoon in June or July. Yes, it does rain quite a lot here, and yes, just because it’s May it doesn’t mean it won’t snow, but it all adds character to the place - doesn’t it? The biggest problem is how quickly the weather can change. Even if it is a sunny day, blue sky, not a cloud in sight: take an umbrella! This is p
erhaps the best tip I can possibly give you about Edinburgh! Also, Princes Street can be a bit of a wind trap. It’s a shame really, because Edinburgh is beautiful in the sunshine but the rain and grey overcast skies really dull down it’s charm. May was tremendous but June has been much more variable.

X is for X-RAYS, eXcellent, & XIAN CHINESE TAKEAWAY

Yes we have a hospital. The city is eXcellent. And I have no knowledge of the takeaway at all but it starts with ‘X’! What! You didn’t expect me to buck tradition, did you?

Y is for YACHT

The Leith Docks area of Edinburgh is now where the Royal Yacht Britannia is moored.

There is a lot to see and do here and it is apparently very good for kids. There are hands-on exhibits, displays and the Royal Barge itself, all in the Visitor Centre. You can then go on to the Yacht and tour four decks. I have to be honest and say that this is something I have yet to visit, but it must be doing something right as it has won the following awards:

Voted Best New Attraction in the UK, 1999
Which? Tourist Attraction Award Winner 2000

See: http://www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk/

Z is for ZOO

I think most residents of Edinburgh would agree that a visit to the Zoo was always a highlight of their childhood. I love taking my kids here as it entertains them for hours. I would advise getting here early and making a day of it. I would normally recommend taking a picnic as the food here is terrible but that may still be restricted as a precaution because of the foot-and-mouth outbreak. My advice would be to give them a phone before going to check. All the usual animals are here, though, and make sure you find out the various feeding times and check out any special events. And don’t miss the Penguin parade - it’s hilarious! Situated on the west side of the city, it is some way away from the centre, but it is well ser
ved by buses and there is a car park, for which you have to pay.

See: http://www.edinburghzoo.org.uk/

And there we have it! Whew! Our brief tour of Edinburgh is over! Of course, someone else could probably come up with a completely different list and be able to justify it but I hope I’ve given enough information to see what you might be interested in and encourage you to come and visit us.

I don’t know everything about Edinburgh by any means, but if you have a particular question or want me to try and find out something locally, please feel free to e-mail me, my address is on my profile, and I’ll do my best to help.

See you soon! (Remember the umbrella!)

Summary: