A unique Island (Holy Island ( Lindisfarne ) in general)

Member Name: Charris2002

Product:	Holy Island ( Lindisfarne ) in general
Date:	07/11/08 (112 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Too numerous too mention

Disadvantages: None

Lindisfarne, or Holy Island, offers something of interest for all who visit the island - Scenery, sites of historical significance, wildlife or sailing, it's all here. I have been fortunate enough to be a regular visitor to Holy Island for over forty years, although when younger I didn't really appreciate it. Why don't you pay a visit to the island with me?

Lindisfarne was the name given to the Island by the first Anglo-Saxons to live here. Historians have been unable to discover the meaning of the word.

Holy Island was designated as a Nature Reserve for its Flora although its immense variety of bird life continues to draw keen ornithologists throughout the year. Visited briefly by hundreds of birds during the migration periods, many species visit and remain throughout the Winter. Geese, duck, waders and the occasional rare Northern Gull are regular visitors, sometimes in staggering numbers. There is tightly controlled Wild-Fowling on the Island.

Holy Island is linked to the mainland by a causeway, covered by the sea twice daily. The causeway regularly causes problems for those who disregard the safe crossing times, or believe they can beat the tide. A small, raised hut is provided at the highest point for those who misjudge it. As a small child I clambered enthusiastically up to the hut to see what it was like - basic, cold and damp as I recall. Those who have spent a few miserable hours in the hut, watching their car slowly being covered or gently bobbing away into the distance, must hope never to repeat the experience. However, I can guarantee that it will happen again and again - some people always know better!

Stretching across the sands, forming a straight line from the start of the causeway to the island, is the Pilgrims Way, named for the visiting pilgrims who still make the trek across to the island on foot.

Arriving on the island proper, the shoreline curves to the right - this route will eventually bring you to the harbour - it involves scrabbling up and down between the shore and a narrow footpath running parallel with the fields behind the village. To the left, an easier footpath leads to the far shore, with some incredible, unspoilt dunes and sweeping beaches. This part of the island is normally very quiet, as it is quite a walk to the dunes. It can be fairly hard going, but it's well worth the effort. You should come across an abundance of rabbits scampering around - they are everywhere on the island despite suffering badly during the Mixymatosis days - I'll never forget finding a hideously deformed rabbit staggering around - it gave me nightmares for weeks afterwards. The sea can be heard from a distance, crashing over the rocks onto the shore. If you can, do this walk in the winter when the winds up, you will be treated to an awesome display of natures power as wave after wave pounds the shore.

Let's head towards the village - On the corner is the Lindisfarne Hotel - a warm, welcoming hotel, privately owned and family run, it does some great afternoon teas, the hot chocolate being a particular favourite - an ideal place for granny to get her breath back. Slightly further on, a large unsightly hut looms into view - a cafe catering for the dozens of coach parties that descend upon the island. Decision time. Down the picturesque narrow street to the castle and harbour? Right, to the island post office, or head along to the Village Square? Lets head right, past the Lindisfarne Heritage Centre (home to an electronic version of the Lindisfarne Gospels, now 'owned' by the British Museum after their 'removal' or theft as we call it, from the island). Further up the village Post Office offers newspapers, sweets, a range of local books, postcards and stamps. Almost opposite used to be the Castle pub - it's now a B&B. I have good memories of this pub - I remember one afternoon, my brother and I were in the Castle, and the landlady decided to close. This is somewhat of a rarity on an Island that has it's own, very loose interpretation of licensing hours. We were chatting with her when there was a knock at the door. Moaning, she answers it to some sinister looking leather-clad figures pleading for a drink. 'I'm afraid we are shut', she states, then as an afterthought, asks 'How many are there? 'About 20' is the reply. Suddenly the pubs open again and it's jumping! This really is typical of the island - welcoming, hospitable, but also acutely aware that a living must be made too.

As we wander to the top of the road, the village school is set back to the right - currently 2 pupils and a teacher!. The school has barely survived, due to younger islanders leaving the island and caters only for primary age children, and it looks likely that this will be an ongoing fight. The older children tend to travel to nearby Berwick or Alnwick (daily travel is not always possible) so most tend to board.

Bear left and we have the ubiquitous craft shop, selling all the usual bits and pieces - shells, celtic design rings, postcards, soaps, plastic things etc. As with most of the tourist shops on the Island this opens at Easter and closes in the Autumn. As you can see, we are between two rows of cottages. These cause some resentment among the Islanders, as most are second homes to people who contribute nothing to the local economy or community. The Islands popularity as a holiday home location exploded and property prices spiralled. People who were scraping a living from fishing, farming and tourism really did receive offers they couldn't refuse. Consequently, younger islanders couldn't afford property on the island - however, in recent years, properties have been constructed specifically for these islanders, with prices fixed and various clauses included to safeguard these properties.

We'll wander straight down here, passing through the cottages, down to the shore. The road winds past the church (we'll pop back this way in a few minutes). On the shore, and the tide is out - let's clamber over the rocks to St Cuthberts island - all that remains are the ruins of his hermitage, and a small cross to mark its presence. Cuthbert ran the monastery and was an active missionary. He was 'called' to be a hermit to fight evil while living a life of solitude. He used this tiny islet for short time before moving to the 'Inner Farne' where he built a hermitage and lived for 10 years. He then became a bishop at the Church's and Kings request .

Having strolled back up the lane, we come to the parish church of St Marys, thought to be built upon the site of the original monastery. This beautiful church can be traced back to 1066. It is a living church, holding three services a day, as well as extra services for the large number of visitors who use it. It is still used for the baptisms, marriages and funerals of the Island people. My parents recently re-took their wedding vows on the day of their Ruby wedding and did so here - the day was glorious, with the sun streaming through the incredibly detailed stained glass windows, church full of flowers and most of the islanders along to help celebrate the event.

Leaving the church we literally stumble into the 11th century Priory. Contrary to popular belief it wasn't built on the site of St Aidans original monastery - in fact, evidence suggests great efforts were made to remove all traces of the old order. It is an incredible feat of civil engineering and is particularly well preserved, with a host of unique features . The well usually proves to be of great interest to the younger generation - I can't work out how the countless stones dropped down this well don't reach the surface by now - where do they go?

Gazing out of the Priory , you can see Lindisfarne Castle, perched high on Beblowe Craig. If we head through the graveyard towards the village square, you can see examples of the harsh reality of life on the island - graves mark the deaths of whole families and infants, bringing home how hard life must have been. Strangely, going back in time, we can see that many islanders far exceeded the average life expectancy of their times. Must be something in the air. I find this graveyard absolutely fascinating, wondering whether heroic tragedy resulted in the deaths of entire families, or whether simple diseases were to blame.

The village green in summer is magnificent - as we leave the churchyard, you can see a stunningly picturesque cottage, covered in roses and greenery. This was the village shop. I loved this place as a kid but was also slightly scared of it - it was dark, full of nooks and crannies and run by two of the oldest, scariest women I had ever seen. These ladies were incredible - they ran the shop well into their late 80s, and never knew a price in their life - How much was it last time you were in? They would ask - I think I told the truth on most occasions! It truly was the end of an era when they shut the shop for the last time.

The green has also been the site of the funniest sight I have ever seen on the island. An islander had purchased a pig to fatten up and sell at market. However, he had nothing to transport it to market, so he borrowed a trailer. Having loaded up the pig, he stopped in the green, at which point the pig made a bid for freedom. It was pursued energetically but totally ineffectually by everyone present. Think Ealing films and you'll get the picture. It eventually escaped, ending up in the dunes, where it spent nearly a week, and was the basis of many stories of strange sightings and noises coming from the shore.

The Manor House Hotel and the Crown and Anchor pub are separated by about 5 feet at the corner of the green - I've spent many nights (and much money) in both of these establishments and can recommend them unreservedly. Both the Lindisfarne that we passed earlier and the Manor stock an incredible range of Whisky, but don't try and sample them all - I was once challenged to do so, managed it over a week and wasn't right for about 3 months! Nice at the time but.....

If we cut through this little gap between the pub and the hotel, we'll head over the field and towards the harbour. The castle to one side, Priory to the other, it's likes stepping back in time.

Lindisfarnes nautical history can be traced back over 1300 years. Its two lifeboats were responsible for some heroic rescues in some of the most dangerous seas around Britain. Unfortunately, no lifeboat station exists on the island today, due mainly to economic pressures. The harbour is known world-wide by pictures of the large, upturned fishing boats, covered in pitch that line the beach. These were work sheds for the small group of remaining seagoing islanders. Many began life as part of one of the largest Herring Fleets to sail off the east coast . The fleet operated from Holy Island harbour until the turn of the 19th century. Sadly, only one working fishing boat remains harboured here, and even that now struggles to bring in a living for its owners.

The views from the harbour of the tremendous seas breaking over the other Farne islands during severe Winter gales are absolutely spectacular but during the Summer months as well, there is nothing more peaceful when the tide is in, visitors have left, than strolling around the harbour.

It is often claimed that the first oak-smoked Herring was prepared in the adjacent Herring Houses. These have now been converted into flats and cottages and form the basis of my most surreal Holy Island experience. I must have been about 9, and my parents didn't have a property on the island, so had rented the Herring House for the Summer. I woke one morning to the sun streaming into the bedroom, and pulled open the curtains - there was Angela Ripon, standing in mid air talking into a microphone! Closing the curtains (I was naked), I pulled my jeans on and had another peek - sure enough it was her. It turned out that a BBC production was being filmed on the island and she was actually standing on top of van doing her commentary. I waited until they were gone before leaving the house due to acute embarrassment.

Look at the spectacular view of the Castle here - on a clear day, you can see the other Farne islands as well as the magnificent Bamburgh Castle, perhaps the most famous of all the Northumbrian coastal defences.

Lindisfarne castle itself sits on a volcanic mound and is one of the most distinct and picturesque features of the Island. Built in 1550 following the dissolution of the monasteries, to defend against attack by Scotland and in pursuit of their Spanish allies, it was constructed from stone taken from the Priory. It has recently been renovated - using of Yak hair in the render. The view from the top of the castle is truly magnificent. Behind the castle are disused lime kilns which were in use until the turn of the 19th century - slaked lime featured highly in the Island's economy.

Now we are at the Castle, lets catch the horse drawn bus back to car, taking one last look at the castle, the priory, and the harbour, savouring the peace and quiet beauty of the Island.
I hope you have enjoyed your visit and hope you get the opportunity to visit this historic, beautiful place and judge for yourself.

This review also on Ciao under my name MarkKerr

Summary: Heaven on Earth