Skye- Where Heather Clad Lilac Hillsides Lie In The Shadow Of the Cuillins (Isle of Skye in general)

Member Name: Machair1

Product:	Isle of Skye in general
Date:	19/01/09 (101 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: A place of outstanding natural beauty

Disadvantages: Midges

Introduction

I have been going through Skye for what seems like decades on my way to the ferry terminal at the far end of the island at a delightful place called Uig, but have also stayed there and would like to give you an insight into the island and what it can offer to the tourist. Known as Eilean a' Cheò (The Misty Isle) this island certainly has plenty of rainy days, but I think the name Misty Isle conjures up images of mystery and intrigue, and certainly the island has many quite and hidden corners just waiting for you to explore.

By way of introduction please do not judge Skye on the main road which runs throughout the island spine from the bridge at the Kyle of Lochalsh to the town of Portree. It is fast and double track, and there are some good views from here, but the real Skye is to be found off this road which in the summer months is busy and fast.

The Isle of Skye is home to 9200 people but the important thing is that on an island 50 miles long with over 2000 living in Portree, it is not crowded and there are endless nooks to lose yourself in solitude.

Glenelg Ferry

So here is my journey through Skye for you to enjoy. There are a number of ways of reaching the island. The simplest of course is the road bridge which has been there now since 1995. Prior to this access was by ferry and until recent times the bridge was a toll. After years of arguments and pressure the toll has gone. It's now a free and easy way to get to Skye but not my first choice. No for me the best way has to be the little ferry which runs from April to October from Glenelg to Kylerhea. Access to this ferry means turning off the A87 at Shiel Bridge and following the 10 mile mountainous road to the ferry. This road climbs to the summit of Mam Ratagan before making a more gradual descent down to the valley and to the terminal. Keep your eyes peeled here for you could spot the all elusive otter as they are common in this area...

At the ferry you are rewarded with wonderful views and the sight of Skye ahead of you. The ferry is the last turntable ferry in operation in Scotland and driving onto it is like going back in history. It takes 6 cars and the atmosphere is one of excitement and anticipation. There were genuine concerns about the survival of the ferry, but in 2007 a community buyout was confirmed, and so it should continue to flourish and to provide the best way to arrive on Skye in my opinion. It is hard to believe that in days gone by cattle being taken to market in the south would swim across the few hundred metres of this channel in small groups tied together behind a rowing boat. For more details visit:
www.skyeferry.co.uk

At Kylerhea you can visit the Otter Haven which is an excellent opportunity to see otters if you are patient.

The other side of the ferry the road is single track and snakes round the hills in a web of turns and twists. You hope you don't meet a caravan but some hardy souls do take their campers on this road which makes reversing difficult. The scenery is picturesque and gives you an idea of the beauty and peace of Skye. Sheep graze peacefully in the heather which in the autumn casts a lilac shadow over the moors. The lavender hue is breathtaking and the sense of peace and tranquility is just magic.

You can also access Skye from Mallaig where the ferry takes you to Armadale on the Sleat peninsula. I have done this route as well but prefer the smaller ferry because it is such an experience. This area of Skye is however very pretty and is wooded, and in the spring there are carpets of bluebells and summer brings rhododendrons and wild flowers in abundance. I have a dear friend who lives there and the area has some wonderful cottages nestled on the hill sides with stunning views.

Facilities at Broadford

So the road eventually joins the main route to Broadford and you are on the spine road.
The village of Broadford is important as there are some very helpful tourist things here. Park at the garage and here there is a Co-op and the garage is also well stocked with foods and gifts. Incidentally the shop also stocks a wide range of whole foods. This petrol is the cheapest on the island and is open 24 hours. Across the road from here are toilets and in the car park is a tourist information centre. Please note this area is very busy so take care crossing the road as traffic is heavy in the summer with cars turning. There are also many foreign drivers so beware of them as some may be new to UK roads. When my children were small getting across this road safely was quite difficult.

Skye Serpentarium

So from here I would recommend a light lunch at the Skye Serpentarium. Just outside Broadford this is a lovely place to visit if you don't mind snakes. The owners have a good selection and you can handle them if you wish. The snakes are rescued and they are recovering from a serious fire which destroyed many of their reptiles in 2006. They have a lovely café where you can enjoy delicious baking and the walls are covered in great information about snakes, in particular adders, which are common in parts of Scotland. It is quite a surreal experience having lunch with snakes so close but it is fun and the children always enjoyed it!

The Road To Elgol

If you only have time to leave the main road once take the road to Elgol from Broadford. The scenery is really beautiful and the road ends in the small village where you take a boat trip to Loch Coruisk which is at the interior of the Cuillin Mountain range and is only accessible from Elgol by boat, or on foot from Sligachan a place on the main Bradford to Skye road which I will mention later. The walk however is not for the faint hearted as it has what is known as the "notorious bad step" which is a section of the path where agility and nerves of steel are required. This loch is only a few hundred yards wide but is two miles long and takes you into the heart of the Black Cuillins which are often shrouded in mist. The Cuillins of Skye are majestic "don't mess with me" daunting ranges of mountains which challenge any experienced climbers. The views from Elgol are magnificent across Loch Scavaig to the islands of Soay, Rum and Canna. I think it is my favourite spot on Skye and one I go to in my mind when I am seeking peace and tranquility on maybe a day which is less than calm.

Broadford to Sligachan and the Possibility of Raasay

Driving back to the main road you enter again the world of civilization which has lost you for some time. Behind you the memories of whitewashed stone cottages, peaks as high as you can see, and a sense of peace and tranquility, - in front of you the next section of the spine road. There is the option on the section of the road to take the ferry to Raasay. This is a small island off Skye reached by ferry from the village of Sconser. This island with a population of 194 is calling me to visit soon if only to see the end of the main road which was built single handedly by one man between 1964-1974.This gentlemen by the name of Calum MacLeod used nothing but a shovel, a pick, and a wheelbarrow to create this road.

Driving on you soon arrive at the tiny settlement of Sligachan.

Sligachan is a great place to camp and there is also a hotel here.
The path to Elgol via Loch Corruisk begins here and is a favourite amongst walkers.

Sligachan to Dunvegan is also a possible drive if you wish to divert from the main road to Portree. This area is best known for its castle. I have never been on this road as far as Dunvegan but like the Raasay trip it is calling me soon. The castle has an excellent reputation and you can read about it www.dunvegancastle.com. This is the ancient stronghold of the McLeod Clan and has been for the last 800 years; today this is still their family home. Taking this fork does however offer you the change to visit the Tallisker distillery in Carbost which is a must for whisky lovers! My husband took me here recently as it is one of his favourite drinks only surpassed by the whiskies of Islay.

If like me you wish to carry on to Portree this is where you don't fork left to Dunvegan but carry on the main road to Portree itself.


Portree

This is a bustling Scottish town with everything you could wish for including a wonderful bakery in the square-truly wonderful forget diets and indulge in one of their cream filled pancakes-out of this world. Look out for the markets where local growers get together usually on Saturday to sell their produce. The salad crops are fabulous and are dug or picked that day. The watercress is grown hydroponically and is tender and sweet and delicious. Cafes there serve salads with edible flowers and the town is a lovely place to walk around for an hour or two. Don't forget the little whole foods shop in Portree which is piled high from floor to ceiling with whole foods of every kind. It is the best health food shop I have ever been to in my life, and we always stop there for supplies.

Portree to Uig

This drive is pretty but not spectacular but leads to a place I love because it is the ferry terminal to The Outer Hebrides. Here you can travel to Harris or to North Uist by car ferry and this is when I am at my happiest knowing I am going to be going home-I call it that but it isn't quite yet but soon will be!

The north of Skye is also known as the Trotternish peninsula and here there is some excellent scenery including "The Old Man of Storr" which has spectacular rock pinnacles.

Skye and The Culture

The Island of Skye is multi cultural now and many of the inhabitants have moved there from the South of England to start new lives. Despite this it is still home to 10% of the world's Gaelic speakers and there is a community spirit there which is rich and alive. I have several good friends who have moved there seeking solace and peace and have found exactly what they have been looking for.

The Drawbacks

The area is prone to midges in the summer and the problem gets severe in the summer months and can make being outside very unpleasant. Midge hoods are one treatment if you fancy walking around like a beekeeper, but otherwise try Avon Skin So Soft- Soft and Fresh (formerly woodland fresh) as this is effective as a deterrent and is used by the British Army.

If you love walking breathtaking scenery, climbing and wildlife this is a place I recommend. The weather is unpredictable and the seasons are not always what you expect, but you are rewarded with a place where you can recharge your batteries and your emotional wellbeing.

Also posted on Ciao under the user name Violet1278.

Summary: A place which is rich in culture, wildlife,and is a place to find solace and peace.