Shane and I now live in a small Cornish town about twenty miles along the coast from the quaint fishing towns of Looe. Looe is the principal seaside town of southeast Cornwall; with Looe harbour being the base for an important fishing fleet and the town is the headquarters of British shark fishing. The town itself consists of quaint narrow streets, shops restaurants and olde world charm, whilst managing to provide excellent tourist facilities at the same time as maintaining their traditional fishing industries.

You catch the ferry to the other side of the bay or take one of the many boat/fishing trips. (Not one thing I have experienced yet as I get sea sick on a peddlow!) I prefer to watch the fishing fleet land their catch on the key at the market and the auctions that then take place.

At Looe you are never too far from the beautiful Cornish beaches with is water sports, fishing, inns, restaurants, boat trips, walks through the countryside and along with with one of the best scenic plus most beautiful coastlines anywhere in the British isle. In medieval times there were two towns on opposite banks of the River Looe. East Looe includes the fishing harbour, the main shopping centre and the sandiest beach. West Looe is quieter, but also has small quaint shops, restaurants and hotels and leads to Hannafore with its spacious promenades and fine views of Looe Island.


**History Lesson**

I am fascinated by the local history of the area and felt I would like to share some with you too. The two towns of East and West Looe are joined together by a bridge across the river; East Looe and West Looe originated as two separate towns. They were what are called "planted boroughs" and there was first mention of them is in 1201. An estuary bridge, the earliest in Cornwall, joined the two towns settlements by about 1411. The bridge was then replaced in 1853 by a new one about a hundred yards further upstream. Up until 1832 the twin tow
ns had two Parliamentary seats - but lost them during parliamentary reforms.

East Looe was built on sand spit, alongside the present river and it was actually a planned town with grid of streets. The houses on the four parallel streets were timber fronted but had stonewalls for fire prevention. Later frontages were built on some of these old houses so it is not immediately noticeable how old East Looe really is. Why not take a little time out whilst enjoying a local pasty to very the architecture?

Around 1500, the Guildhall is believed to have been built and one house is dated 1555 whilst another is dated around 1632. The ‘Golden Guinea restaurant’ is one of many ancient houses still in use today and whose gorgeous interiors, give more clues to its age than do the later exteriors that has been disguised. One might normally expect the Church of England's parish church to have the most interesting history, but in West Looe, that of the Congregational Chapel on the Quay eclipses it. It is one of the most extraordinary stories in the history of Non-conformist churches. I say this because the Chapel was founded in the 1770s (date not certain), largely due to the efforts of its first pastor, the Rev. Sir Harry Telawny, Bart. However, for some unknown reason he was ordained at Southampton, in itself extraordinary. It seems that no one knows why he was not ordained either at West Looe or at least somewhere nearer than Southampton. Actually the ordination service was attended by an enormous gathering. (The largest recorded in the Southampton chapel's history). It had more pomp in it than was customary for non-conformists. There is some vagueness about the dealings, much of which seem to have over-ridden the regular pre-requisites. Sir Harry, in his address, said the "the dear people at West Looe being, for the most part, brought out of darkness into marvellous light through my poor instrumentality, are abundantly beloved by me"
;. Even at Westminster School, Sir Harry had been a young man of earnest religious inclination. When at Oxford, he preferred to commerce of men of inferior class rank who were religiously inclined for company. As was required in those days, he attested his faith in the established church at the time he took his Bachelor's degree, though he had something of a crisis of conscience in so doing.

He preached across the southwest region for many years and at West Looe, on a site near the market place, which is now a private house, at his own expense Sir Henry built a chapel. Whilst he was pastor (the period is unclear), large numbers flocked to his services from as far a field as Plymouth. (This is around 30miles distance). He preached the opening sermon at the new Congregational chapel at Mevagissey in 1776. Sir Harry planned to live his life and die as pastor of the chapel. It seems that great pressure was brought to bear on him; it took the form of returning to the Established Church (of England). He was reminded of the desirableness of persistent to the religion of his ancestors and retrieving the reputation of his family. His scruples were overcome by an assurance that subscription to the Articles of the Established Church was simply an affirmation that he was a Christian. However, after a short time, his religious views underwent further change and he entered the Roman Catholic Church, eventually, after his wife's death, actually becoming a priest. He died in 1834. His congregation at the little chapel remained steadfast in their faith, but their pastor became their foe. He had the chapel, which was his property, pulled down and prevented them from having another meeting place, so they had to meet in secret in each other’s houses. Eventually, the congregation purchased a piece of land and raised the funds to build a small chapel, which opened in 1787.

The new chapel was too poor to begin with, so it could ill afford its own pastor, b
ut eventually one of the congregation emerged as minister - a Mr James Angear, but by the time he resigned in 1807, the numbers of the church had increased sufficiently to support a minister and the chapel was enlarged in 1830 and 1849.

History lesson over!


**The Summer Season**

I winter Looe is moderately quiet and there is always plenty of places to park but come the summer months, parking in one of the four larger pay and display car-parks is a nightmare. Near by there is the Monkey sanctuary, Dobwalls theme parks, Eden project, golf courses, and the general natural beauty of Cornwall itself, over at Bodmin Moor. Why not take the coastal path west and walk to Polperro. When sitting on the sheltered sandy beaches, look out for Nelson the seal that regularly visits the harbour for his supper of fish from the fishermen; he is now blind in one eye. A word of warning though, watch out for the seagulls as they think the tourists are easy pickings. The birds are large, so you are warned. They sit atop of cars parked in the car park almost taking food from your hands! This is the reason that you see lots of signs in Cornwall saying, PLEASE DO NOT FEED THE SEAGULLS!


**Eating Out**

Talking about food, Looe has a wide selection of eating establishment. Looe and the surrounding area can offers restaurants, cafes, pubs and other eating houses of every description - from gourmet meals - through fish and chips on the plate or out of the bag - to fast food. Really the choice is yours. I have given a few examples of place that I have used since moving to Cornwall in October 2002.

*The Moonlight Tandoori Restaurant*
Fore Street
East Looe
Cornwall PL13 1AE
Tel: 01503 / 265372
For a spicy night out. The portions are large and very tasty. It is open Sunday to Saturday 12 noon - 2.30pm 5.30 pm – Midnight, open seven days a week including Bank holidays (except Christmas day) and is Fully Lice
nsed. The prices are reasonable.

The Smugglers Cott
Middle Market Street,
East Looe,
Cornwall UK
Tel: 01503/262397:
This is a famous 15th Century Eating House that Open All Year. I would advise booking, as it is very popular. It is open evenings only and Sunday lunchtimes, plus serves Carvery on Thursday & Friday evenings. This is idea to visit for special occasions or anniversaries.

Tom Sawyers Tavern: Proprietors: John & Judith
Marine drive,
Hannafore,
West Looe,
Cornwall.
UK Tel: +44 (0)1503/262782
This is probably my favourite restaurant in Looe at present. It as a Restaurant and bar and I would advise booking, as it is very popular. On a Sunday offers an excellent Carvery meal and also provides Live Music.

Kelly’s Restaurant and take away
Fore Street,
East Looe,
Tel :01503 / 263381
It is open all year 7 days a week and serves traditional carved roast dinners, home made fresh cream cakes, locally made ice-cream extensive on an all day menu. It strikes me though as a fast food café and I have only used it to buy chips if truth were told! It serves quality fish & chips and was winners of the sea fish industry quality awards 97, 98, 99, 00. 01 & 02
There is also a Children's menu available, along with wheelchair access. (Special rates for party bookings, coaches & clubs.)

Finally it would be Cornwall if I did not mention the infamous Pasties. Yes you know the "national dish" of Cornwall. It is truly a meal in itself and Looe has some of the very best Pasty makers. Expect to pay from 75p for a small one to between £1.50 and £2.25 for a big one. The traditional beef potato and suede varieties is avalible but look out for the more exotic flavours such a Indian Chickpea and Potato, Pork and Stilton, Chicken and Aspagrass to name but a few. Yummy!

Well I hope my guide to Looe has given you some incite to the town and what it has to o
f the holidaymaker. Now I think “I” deserve a large Veggie pasty for my supper!