I recently read an opinion by Ellen67 of the Foz do Iguaco falls in Southern Brazil, which plunge 289 ft into the Iguacu river below. Entitled ‘Do not read this if you suffer from vertigo’ the review was a well-written piece of work describing one of the world’s largest and most impressive waterfalls.

As it happens at the time I was considering writing an opinion on a waterfall close to where I live, but decided to shelve the idea after reading the review because Pistyll Rhaeadr seemed to pale into insignificance compared to the majesty of this South American Waterfall.

However I’ve had second thoughts, I’ve decided that anything the Brazilians can do, Wales can do just as well, so here is my description of my favourite of the ‘Seven Wonders of Wales’ a site to behold and much more accessible than the Brazilian/Argentine border.

Not quite as high as the Foz do Iguacu, Pistyll Rhaider, which translates as ‘the spring of the waterfall’ is nevertheless an impressive cascade of 240 ft and is the highest waterfall in Britain south of the Scottish highlands.

The waterfall is about 16 miles from Oswestry, a town of welsh origins in northern Shropshire but east of Offa's Dyke, the eighth century border between England and Wales. To get there from Oswestry follow the A483 towards Welshpool. After 3 miles turn right at Llynclys cross roads (White Lion pub on your right), and continue on the B4396.

From here to the secluded falls, you drive through some incredibly beautiful scenery set in mostly uninhabited countryside to the village of Llanrhaeadr ym Mochnant (A translation is the Church of the waterfall in the village of the stream of the Pigs). This village was once the parish of the famous vicar (and later Bishop) William Morgan (1545-1604), the place where he worked on his translation of the Holy Bible into Welsh that became one of the deciding factors in the survival of
the language.

In Llanrhaeadr go through the main square, past the Wynstay Arms, and turn right into Waterfall Street just before the corner shop. The Waterfall is signposted above the shop, Continue along Waterfall Street for four miles until the road ends at the waterfall car park.

This place is so remote it has not yet been damaged by too much tourism. Those who do know of its existence refer to it as the 'Hidden Pearl of Wales'. It is the perfect antidote to the stress of modern living. Bewitchingly magnificent, it is both beautiful and majestic and it will quickly subdue your stress, and instill a sense of awe and peace.

George Borrow, the 19th century author of ‘Wild Wales’ (what a wonderful book this is – the original Bill Bryson) described the awe-inspiring spectacle as follows:

‘What shall I liken it too? I scarcely know, unless to an immense skein of silk agitated and disturbed by tempestuous blasts’, and went on to say that he had ‘never seen water falling so gracefully, so much like thin, beautiful threads as here’.

A little flowery perhaps but if you’ve been there you would agree that its a fitting description of a beautiful site. The scenery is breathtaking and dramatic surrounded on both sides by sheer cliffs and woods, with many walks leading into the Berwyn Mountains.

Because of the absence of too much tourist development the falls can be enjoyed without interruption in their natural splendor as they descend down the steep, rocky hillside in a series of leaps. After a near vertical drop of about 120 ft the water emerges as a spout through a natural arch in the rock to complete the remaining 120 ft of its journey. George Borrow was told that a man once managed to clamber across this arch, whilst legend claims that it was created as a fairy bridge.

The more I think of it, the more beautiful I remember it is. If you recall the New Z
ealand scenery in Lord of the Rings, this area is very similar to many of the scenes and is full of just as many myths. It really is a very magical place.

Geologically the falls are relatively young formed no more than 10,000 years ago. The smooth sides of the valley indicate that it was carved by glaciers during the ice age. The waterfall did not appear until the ice had melted and has therefore had very little time to carve a gorge at the head of the valley.

Climb to the top of the waterfall, and you are rewarded with spectacular views. The huge rocks visible on the floor of the valley are known as the ‘Giants Burdens’. According to legend these large boulders were dropped by a family of giants disturbed by a cock-crow, as they were about to build a bridge across the river, under cover of darkness, to attack a neighbour.

To the south of the waterfall the highest peaks in the Berwyn range, Moel Sych (2713 ft) and Cadair Berwyn (2712 ft) can be seen to the head of the valley. Another legend says that the Berwyns are haunted by the Hounds of Hell, which race over the slopes looking for lost souls. In the spring, which I think is a lovely time to visit, the melting snows from these mountains feed the mountain streams and provide truly spectacular vistas.

To the east of the valley is the site of a mediaeval castle and a disused lead mine from Roman times. Not particularly interesting, but a pointer of how this area was not always considered to be as remote as it is now.

The waterfall and the valley are a haven for an incredible variety of birds. Buzzards, kestrels, wheatears and whinchats are frequently seen fling between the falls and the moorland, whilst the sheltered valley floor is a home for redstarts, pied flycatchers, tree pipits, green woodpeckers, greater spotted woodpeckers, marsh tits, tree creepers, nut hatches, blackcaps garden warblers, willow warblers, chiff-chaffs and lesser wood warblers.
Near the river you are almost certain to see dippers, grey wagtails and pied wagtails. It’s a twitchers’ paradise.

As I’ve already pointed out, its not mainstream as far as tourism is concerned, which adds to its charm. However there is a restaurant/tea room/ B and B in a building constructed by a vicar in 1724 as a summer retreat and who supposedly had an encounter with the ‘little folk’. Its called Tan-y-Pistyll which means ‘little house under the waterfall’. The restaurant/ tearoom has a very cosy and rustic appearance, with many of the original 17th Century features still existing today, the atmosphere is very homely and peaceful, and it looks an ideal place for drinking hot toddies around the log fire in winter, or a pint sitting outside on the picnic benches in summer.

If you’re looking for peace, beautiful scenery and nature at its best pay this waterfall and is environment a visit and bring a little magic into your life without the expense and hassle of flying halfway round the world. Take a look at the pictures on the web site you’ll be amazed how beautiful it is.