St Andrews- quaint and cobbled, who needs golf! (St Andrews in General)

Member Name: theabster

Product:	St Andrews in General
Date:	08/09/09 (38 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Lots of pubs, big reputation, good uni,close to other Scottish cities, beautiful countryside and sea

Disadvantages: Overcrowding at times and expensive prices due to tourists (even Tescos is expensive!)

St Andrews

St Andrews is probably one of the most famous towns in Scotland. It has something of an international reputation, perhaps mostly due to it being the location of one of the world's most famous golf courses, St Andrews Links Course. Yet, in my personal opinion, the association of St Andrews as a golfing location has had a rather negative impact on the attraction of the town, thwarting much more interesting natural features, sites of interest and things to do that don't cost the earth (in both ways!).


St Andrews and the Golf

Now, I know a lot of people enjoy golf. They enjoy a stroll through manufactured 'open space'. I understand that the golfing demographic is not all professionals and executives these days and that if it wasn't for golf courses there would be no green spaces and we would be surrounded with shopping malls and car parks instead. I also understand that irrigation has become more efficient and that fertiliser use is being limited. 'The rough' has a significant positive impact for wildlife species (though, of course, unless the green spaces were used as ACTUAL green spaces).

But, for all I am told, I still think the same. St Andrews is a prime example of where the country club scene has dominated other sites of interest, for which there are many.

I happen to think that golf courses, to put it politely, are rather monstrous creations wasting huge quantities of water, requiring large amounts of fertiliser and are mown to the extent that little or no wildlife could exist on these barren swathes of 'green' even if they wanted to. The stereotype of 'people who golf' is perhaps the most grotesque of social cliques: people who regard eating a heavy lunch at 'the club', drinking excess alcohol and getting driven around in laughable buggies as exercise (?!). Then, whilst in impeccable dress, claim that the game itself is not at all boring. I suggest that those guys (and ladies, of which they are so very few) go home and spend some time with their children rather than tiptoeing on their fake grass in polo shirts and chinos. But, I am entitled to my opinion and so are you, so be sure that if you love golf then I don't hold a grudge. More importantly, this review is about St Andrews as a place of interest and hence my indirect ramble just serves to quantify how much I think it has to offer besides golf! I think it gives St Andrews a one-dimensional appeal that neglects the more raw and real appeal of long beaches, historical sites of interest, coastal walks, quaint shops, cobbles and so on.

So, the golf course? I think it is elitist, wasteful and boring, but that's too bad! For those who enjoy, it offers one of the most famous golf courses in the world: the Old Course, which dates back to Medieval times. The Open Championship will return to the town in 2010, so I better be far away for that! Tiger Woods frequents the course, and according to Jack Nicklaus "If a golfer is going to be remembered, he must win at St Andrews". Since lots of celebrities like to play on the course, particularly at the Dunhill Links Championship that comes around every October, you tend to see quite a few of them walking about the town. I passed Samuel L Jackson outside of a pub during this time!

St Andrews Cathedral

Since the town grew out from the west of this cathedral, with the southern side of the Scores to the north and the Kinnessburn to the South, it seems like a good place to start. It was in use from its foundation in 1158 until it fell into disuse after the Reformation. It is currently ruined and in the custody of Historic Scotland. It is really quite a focal point of the town: one end wall that remains in place stands at an impressive height. St Rule's tower is located in the Cathedral grounds and predates the actual cathedral, but you can pay a fee to get up to the top in order to see an admirable view of the town, habour, sea and surrounding countryside. I think as a site it is quite expensive, since going up the tower costs at least £4 each or perhaps more cheaply as part of a "tour St Andrews" bundle. I think you get a good enough sense of the history of the place by walking around, breathing the air and reading the placards. That said, the view would probably be great. There is also a cathedral museum which contains a sarcophagus dating from the mid-8th century. Who needs Egypt! The museum also costs to enter- I visited the site but didn't go into the museum or up the tower because of the cost, so perhaps if you had children or were particularly interested then this would be a good way to enjoy a few hours.

St Andrews Castle

This a very picturesque 1200AD fort that now lies in ruins but is perched on the cliff face, clinging to rocks against a spectacular seascape. There is a visitor centre and you can poke around the ruins and perhaps climb down the steps below the castle to a sweet little shingle beach that boasts little rock pools and a glorious cosy feeling. Better than any visitor centre!

The Beaches

Alongside the golf course, on the sea edge, runs West Sands, a great stretch of soft, sandy beach that was captured in the movie "Chariots of Fire", giving some impression of its scale. Though this is Scotland and the weather variable and rarely 'hot', you do get crisp, beautiful days and somewhat mild winters and little rain that encourages many-a-stroll along the beach. The water is very cold, which I can tell you from personal experience of taking dips in both summer and winter. Not for the faint hearted! East Sands is a smaller beach in a more southerly position that is smaller but more British seaside town-like with ice cream vans and a promenade and so on. Lovely!

The Town itself

From September to May the town is largely dominated by a heavy student population and thus much of the amenities are geared towards the students. Thus there are a large number of bars and pubs, though no clubs as such. One bar has called the Lizard has recently extended its opening hours to 2am and is charging entry after 11pm thus trying to create a club atmosphere, though a little half-heartedly. Strict planning restrictions and high rents mean the shops and types of amenities are relatively static and then some cater also to the tourist trade. To list them all would be difficult but to give you a range there are knitwear/Scottish themed stores, a greengrocers, boots, Starbucks, delicatessens, an ice cream parlour, a stationary shop, chip shops, etc. Except for high market boutique style shops and a New Look, there are limited clothes shopping opportunities unless you are game for charity shopping or like Arran sweaters. Dundee is close though and you could always take a short bus trip there for a plethora of shops and services! There is something for everyone and this includes a huge variation in pub style, restaurant theme (ranging from premium sea food, to Indian, to cheap takeaways, Italian and so on) and bar style. Students have some regular haunts and tend to circulate these on nights out (perhaps avoid Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays if you aren't looking to be somewhere swamped by students). Drinks are not that cheap: Mackays bar is the cheapest if that is what you are looking for. You need to be in a city for cheap drinks deals- here they know students will buy them, pretty much whatever the price, within some degree of reason. May to September is golf season and tourist season, and the weather is better- so perhaps this is the better time to visit as it is more like a 'normal' town. You actually might see locals in the pubs this way too!

University

I go there so I'm not going to be able to be particularly unbiased, but league tables aside, University experience is largely positive and depends on the people you meet rather than the subject you are doing or how well it is taught (though in later years this is perhaps more of an issue). It can be claustrophobic as a small town with limited amenities and the repetitive nature of the nightlife and people can turn it into a weird amalgamation of social cliques that can support or neglect your overall experience. Most people I know love it! But you need to get out once in a while, and it is not a city university. It has a buzzing and internationally recognised academic record and everyone likes to beef up the subject they are doing and all its prowess. Take all with a pinch and salt and do what you love.

Coastal Walks

Try the Fife Coastal trail which you can go off in many directions from the St Andrews locality. There are cycle trails galore which you can look up online or pick up a leaflet from the tourist office. The walk down in the direction of Anstruther is just breathtaking. Just walking through the town on a quiet day is quite nice. As is Fife in general, which is characterised by luscious arable fields atypical of eastern Scottish lowlands.

Access

The town is approximately 50 miles north-east of Edinburgh, 14 miles south east of Dundee, 78 miles south of Aberdeen, 82 miles east of Glasgow and 466 miles north of London! Air travel to Edinburgh or Glasgow is probably easiest followed by a car trip or bus trip. Rail services operate to Leuchars which is a fair few miles outside of St Andrews and thus a short bus ride or taxi from the station itself.

Overall, St Andrews is quaint and pretty but a bit overcrowded at times. Choose a good time to go and you will be able to enjoy clean, sea air and a great, relaxing taste of coastal Scotland.

Summary: British coastal charm without the tack and with plenty of fresh, natural beauty