Stunning St Ives (St Ives (Cornwall))

Member Name: Leolover

Product:	St Ives (Cornwall)
Date:	06/09/02 (1435 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Beautiful location, lovely fresh sea air, plenty to see and do

Disadvantages: Driving and parking is a nightmare

Looking for a relaxing, romantic break where you can lay in bed and listen to waves sweeping into the harbour and crashing against the sea wall? Look no further. St Ives is a lovely little town in North Cornwall, about twenty minutes from Penzance. Here you can meander along the harbour front, taking in the spectacular sea views, browse the many art galleries and shops for a masterpiece to take home, or, if you’re the more adventurous type, go wreck fishing in one of the rickety little fishing trawlers that line the harbour. You can dine on the most delicious seafood imaginable in one of the many fabulous restaurants, or munch on a giant pasty or a traditional Cornish cream tea. St Ives has something for everyone. It’s my favourite place in England.

I spent many family holidays in Cornwall as a child, and we often paid St Ives a visit, although I don’t think we ever actually stayed there. I have lots of fond childhood memories of the place; paddling in the sea, searching for crabs among the rocks on the beach, watching artists paint on the harbour front, surfing on a ‘body board’ on Porthmeor beach. This year I had a hankering to go back there, and experience St Ives’ beauty from an adult perspective.

*** THE TOWN

St Ives is a small town full of quaint fishing cottages and cobbled streets. Wandering through the back streets down to the harbour is like stepping back in time. The harbour front itself is more modern, but still attractive, with bustling restaurants nestling alongside souvenir shops and stalls selling Cornish pasties and scrumptious Cornish ice-cream. It’s a working harbour, so you can watch the local fisherman bring in their catches by the pier. The air smells fresh, salty and invigorating. St Ives is famous for the quality of the light there, everything seems bright and fresh and new.

*** THINGS TO DO

Deep sea fishing

You can go on fishing trips for
two, four or eight hours. We went for two, and it was more than adequate – we caught six fish between us! It’s great fun, but if you suffer from sea-sickness, give this one a miss – even on calm days the small fishing boats rock about quite a bit. Two hours costs around £10 per person.

Tate Gallery

The famous Tate Gallery at St Ives is worth a visit. There were three separate exhibitions when we were there, all very different and interesting. The exhibitions change around every three months. Entry is £4.50 per adult, £2.50 concessions.

Shopping

If you’re into art of any kind, you’ll be in heaven. St Ives is famous for producing outstanding artists and there are lots of art and craft galleries and shops to browse through. There are also lots of souvenir shops and a few clothes shops (of the ‘sporty surfer dude’ variety mainly).

Trip to Seal Island

Seal Island is a tiny rocky outcrop about 45 minutes by boat from the harbour, and around 100 seals live there. For £7, you can travel to the island and see the seals. It is a lovely experience – one big bull seal swam right out to out boat to say hello! Again, avoid if you suffer from seasickness, it’s a bumpy old ride.

The Minack Theatre

This isn’t actually in St Ives, it’s in Porthcurno, which is a half hour drive away, but it’s a must see. An open air theatre cut into the rocky cliff, with the most breathtaking views imaginable. There are evening performances from April – September, but even if you don’t fancy actually attending a show, the exhibition explaining how it was built is still very interesting, and you can wander around the theatre itself taking photographs.

The Beach

Build sandcastles, search or fish for crabs, lounge in the sun, fly a kite, have a picnic, swim in the sea (if you can cope with the near freezing temperature!) or s
urf the waves at Porthmeor beach. I never tire of simply sitting on the sand and watching the sea. It’s more relaxing than a massage, in my opinion!

*** PLACES TO EAT

St Ives has a myriad of wonderful places to eat. I can't remember where all of the restaurants I'm about to list are located, but you'll realise when you get to St Ives that it's quite a small town, and you'll easily be able to track them down.

The Mermaid

This was our favourite restaurant, of all those we tried. We liked it so much we went there twice! It’s a lovely little restaurant tucked away down a side street, cosy and inviting. The Mermaid Seafood soup starter is to die for – huge chunks of lobster, fish and prawns in a thick bisque-like sauce. The mussels are also a great starter – juicy, tender and laced with garlic in a white wine sauce. For your main course, I thoroughly recommend the Newlyn Scallops in lobster sauce, served with seasonal vegetables and white rice. On our second visit, we tried the lobster, which was delicious, but the scallops were tastier.

You may be stuffed by the time the dessert menu comes your way, but if you can find a bit of space to squeeze it in, the bread and butter pudding is absolutely scrumptious. They also have a great selection of whiskies and a really good wine list.

Moby’s

The first place we tried, and it didn’t disappoint. The Thai Tiger Prawn starter is really nice, and the fresh fish (I tried the mackerel stuffed with lemon and thyme) is very well prepared, fresh and tasty.

Russets

I had brown crab for my starter here, and it was fab – if somewhat fiddly to get out of its shell! I had a Thai Monkfish curry for my main course, which was also great, and for dessert, raspberry crème brulee. A good wine list and attractive décor. Quite a bit pricier thatn many of the other restaurants in the area though.
<
br>Huer’s

This restaurant is situated on the harbour front above a shop, and has a great view. There’s a funky little bar inside the building where you can grab a pre dinner drink or two. The food is really nice – and cheaper than some – and the ambience was good too. The service wasn’t great though

Bumbles Tea Rooms

A great place for lunch or afternoon tea – two scones, cream and jam and a pot of tea for £2.75. They also have a selection of sandwiches, salads and jacket potatoes, and some main meals. It gets quite packed in peak season though, so you may have to wait for a table.

A cheaper option is to grab a Pasty or a portion of fish and chips from one of the many stalls and shops on the harbour front, and eat them by the sea – keeping a lookout for the aggressive, food grabbing seagulls as you do!

Make sure you get your hands on some Cornish clotted cream fudge while you’re there – it’s to die for!

Oh – and one to avoid is ‘The Saucy Chef,’ it was appalling. The mussels I ordered were gritty and shrivelled, and my boyfriend requested a medium steak and it came out blackened to a crisp. Stay away!

*** WHEN TO GO

We went the week of the August bank holiday, and I have to say it probably wasn’t at its best then – very overcrowded. We had to book a restaurant each morning to ensure a place in the evening, and sometimes had to eat very late. I think it would be better to visit earlier in the year, maybe May or June. St Ives is also just as beautiful out of season. Cornwall is one of those places that’s so rugged and romantic it’s just as charming in stormy, cold weather as it is when the sun’s shining.

*** WHERE TO STAY

We stayed at Cornerways Guest House, a modest B&B run by Carol and Brian Pyecroft, which is located very near the harbour front. Log on to www
.treganna.com\Cornerways for more information. Our ensuite room had a sea view and was comfy but basic. We paid £24 per person per night, which is pretty typical for the area. That included a really nice English breakfast. There are lots of similar guest houses in the town, and they all seemed very nice. Try Smoothhound.co.uk to find one that suits you. There are a few hotels, but they’re very expensive – around £80 - £150 a night.

If you’re planning to drive to St Ives, be warned – the place is a nightmare for driving and parking. You may want to find a B&B or hotel further back from the harbour front as possible, as they’re more likely to provide parking spaces.

*** CONCLUSION

I hope I’ve managed to convince you that St Ives is the perfect place for a relaxing, fun filled break. I guarantee you’ll come back with a smile on your face, and a lot of happy memories to get you through the rest of the year. Kids will love it, and if they’re anything like me they’ll be left with a fondness for this beautiful place that will last well into adulthood. So go on – book yourself a break, you deserve it!

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