UPDATED - A Phoenix from the ashes (Cains Beers in general)

Member Name: grahamt

Product:	Cains Beers in general
Date:	03/09/01 (121 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Great beer, Great pubs

Disadvantages: Only locally available, Only available in cans elsewhere

I worked for many years in Liverpool. When I first moved to Merseyside at the end of the 60s, it was a bit of a beer desert. The local beer was Higsons and even then, although it had a faithful local following, it hardly constituted an example of brewing excellence.

A new brewery by the name of Peter Walker started up in Warrington and supplied a number of tied pubs in Liverpool. The beer was excellent and so became the beer of choice for those who appreciated what they drank.

Higsons never really responded to the challenge and in 1985 succumbed to a takeover bid from Manchester brewer, Boddingtons. Everyone wondered what would become of Higsons after that. What happened was not quite what was expected. In 1990 it was Boddingtons that was taken over, by Whitbread, who therefore also acquired Higsons.

Whitbread has had a love/hate relationship with Real Ale. Over the years they have been in turn saviours and destroyers of some of the best-loved beers in the UK. In the case of Higsons they almost immediately announced that the Higsons Stanhope Street brewery would close. Was this to be the end of brewing in Liverpool.

There was a local outcry. Isn't strange that when a local institution is threatened everyone jumps on the bandwagon to cry "foul" even though they hardly could be said to have supported it "in life"?

A rescue of sorts in the form of the purchase of the brewery by G.B. Breweries Ltd, which reopened in June 1990. In purchasing the brewery they did not also acquire the rights to the Higsons name, which was retained by Whitbread, production of Higson beer being transferred elsewhere within the Whitbread empire.

So, a new brand had to be created and a new pub chain built from scratch. Whitbread had also retained all of the old Higsons pubs as well. G.B. Breweries looked back into history and it turned out that the Higsons ownership of their brewery was only of fairly rece
nt origin. Daniel Higson bought the brewery in 1923 from Walker Cain Ltd.

Walker Cain had been itself formed by the merger of Walkers of Warrington (déjà vu?) and the Liverpool Stanhope Street brewery owned by one Robert Cain. Robert had arrived from Ireland in 1844 and in 1858 acquired the site on which the current brewery stands. The brewery he bought is not the current one. He redeveloped the site as it is today (more or less) between 1887 and 1902.

It therefore seemed natural to revive the Robert Cain name and to produce a range of beers branded with his name. In 1991, G.B. Breweries became Robert Cain & Co Ltd and was immediately acquired by The Danish Brewery Group. Was this going to be another Whitbread fiasco?

To their credit, the Danes recognised that Cains had something positive to offer the people of Liverpool and put their full support behind the UK management. A range of beers was created and the group set out to buy tied pubs in which to sell their beer. They also produced for the free trade. Their canned Bitter and Formidable Ale were sold widely in supermarkets. This ensured a positive source of revenue as the pub estate was built.

But Cains is dedicated to Real Ale. Their superb Best Bitter is one of my all-time favourite beers. In addition to the already mentioned Formidable Ale they also produce a most excellent Dark Mild, an unusual show of commitment to the style which is declining generally in popularity, more's the pity, and which has three times won the Mild Ale Bronze Medal at the CAMRA Great British Beer Festival.

Their growing pub estate has also been the recipient of awards. Two of their pubs, Doctor Duncan on St Johns Lane and The Dispensary on Renshaw Street have been awarded CAMRA "Pub of Excellence" awards, demonstrating Cains commitment not only to superb beer but also excellent drinking surroundings.

However, they are not content to rest there. Through
their association with The Danish Brewery Group they are introducing a range of superb Danish beers into the UK.

The Danish Brewery Group's premier beer is Faxe lager. You may have seen this in cans in various supermarkets. It is notable for coming only in 1 litre ring-pull cans. I am a great fan of Faxe and drink it whenever I am in Denmark. I prefer it to the all-dominating Carlsberg.

Now you will be able to get it in the UK thanks to Cains. You will also be able to get "Red Erik", also from Denmark as well as Giraf from the Danish Albani brewery. This will be available both in bottled and draught form. I have drunk Giraf in Denmark and can confirm that it too is an excellent beer.

Denmark is not the only source though. They are also importing Hopf Weisse, a wheat beer from Germany.

Cains is rapidly building a formidable reputation and on the back of this growing at an astounding rate. If I have one gripe it's that their beers are still not easily available outside of the North West. I can get Cains Bitter in cans but I have to confess that I am never satisfied with the taste of canned beers, anyone?s canned beers. Let?s hope that Cains has ambitions to expand beyond a mere regional brewer.

Update - Feb '02
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I have been astounded to hear that the Danish Brewery Group is withdrawing from the UK market and has put Cains and its 10 tied pubs up for sale.

We've been here before with Higsons. Is this once again the death rattle of brewing in Liverpool? Is this going to leave just the microbrewery in The Baltic Fleet (formerly the Passageway Brewery) as the last remnants?

It would be criminal if Cains disappeared. If you have or know anyone with a few million to spare, perhaps they could be persuaded to mount a rescue?

Tim Martin, how about Cains as the house brew of J D Wetherspoons?

Update - Mar '02
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A new website has been created to help fight for the survival of Cains. It is hosted by CAMRA Campaigns. You will find it at www.savecainsbeer.com.

Please visit and join up to show your support for this excellent brewer.

Update - March '03
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With the start of 2003 it seems that Cains future is once more assured, at leat for the forseeable future. The Dusanj brothers, Ajmail and Sudarghara, owners of Midlands-based drinks distribution company, Gardner-Shaw, have acquired the brewery group and have indicated that they have positive plans for the ongoing development of this first-class brewer.

They have even initiated the brewing of a brand new beer, 2008 Ale, to support Liverpool's campaign to become the European City of Culture 2008.

I wish them well.

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