Product Type: Nutrafin fish accessories
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Not just to remove chlorine - treats injuries too.
Nutrafin Aquaplus Tap Water Conditioner
Member Name: broxi3781
Nutrafin Aquaplus Tap Water Conditioner
Date: 27/09/12, updated on 27/09/12 (246 review reads)
Advantages: Removes harful chemicals, helps injuries heal.
Disadvantages: It is still yet another chemical being added to the water - even if it's a good one.
Northern Ireland isn't known for high levels of chlorine in the water supply. Many people do routine water changes with water straight from the tap - and 99% of the time you can get away with that. It's just that other 01% that worries me. If something were to happen to my fish - it would cost me a fortune to replace them. The parrot fish alone would cost me over £100 at their size - but it isn't just the price. I've had them since they were little 1 1/2" fry. I've had most of my fish for a number of years and I don't much like losing any. While the water supply here is usually safe enough as is, they do dump in extra chlorine without warning when there is a break in the pipes or any form of contamination. It just takes once changing your tank when the chlorine level is up and no more fishies.
I've been using Nutrafin Aquaplus for years now because the fellow in a very reputable tropical fish shop recommended it. It is a bit expensive. I paid £8.60 for 250 ml which will treat 1,000 litres of water. I had always expected Amazon to be more expensive for this - so never checked until writing this review. It turns out Amazons price is £12.61 for 500 ml which now treats 3,500 litres ( more concentrated formula?) of water and saves my husband driving to the next town to collect it. In addition to neutralising chlorine and chloramine ( which is more difficult to remove) - this is also meant to neutralise heavy metals and has a patented herbal extract which they claim heals injuries and reduces stress.
The directions on this bottle advise us to use 10ml per 40 litres of water. Double the dosage is required for saltwater. In all honesty I do use less - unless I notice a chlorine smell to the water which is rare. I also carefully aerate my water before adding to the tank * and run air pumps for awhile afterwards. I do not use anything if water sits out overnight first. I am guessing at quantities anyway. The measuring cap holds 25 ml which would be enough for 100 litres of water. I just use a half cap for the large tanks standard water change and a wee drop for the small tanks unless a very large water change takes place. If I am just adding a cup or two of water for a top up - I don't bother. I have never had any fish go floating on me just after a water change - so I can only assume this is working well still as it been years since I have used a chlorine strip to test - but I have always used less than required on the chemicals.
I did have one occasion to use this full strength though - and I did this without any real hope of it working. My son has a pair of Lake Malawi cichlids which he has had for about a year and half now. They have a rocky tank - which is the way this type of fish are meant to be kept. At the time we also had a small pleco in the tank which was meant to be moved to a large tank when it grew big enough. I have no idea what happened but my son came in very upset one night - very late as well after midnight saying his fish was sick. The pleco was dead and one of the cichlids was seriously injured. He wanted to go to a vet. Emergency hours vets are quite expensive and I don't think any of them treat fish anyway. A serious cut on a fish is usually a death sentence. Infection sets in easily and the fish dies. Damage to the slime coating on the scales alone can kill fish - which is why you should never catch fish in your hands unless they are flopping about on the floor. I really didn't see any way around this - but he was desperate for me to do something so I told him I would give the fish some medicine to help. I used the full amount allowed and went to bed.
Seeing the fish alive the next day, my son was well pleased that it was working - but I expected it to take a few days for the fish to die. Still three days later - the fish looked better - not worse. The instructions do not say anything about how often you can add this, but I did a 20% water change and added the full amount again. The fish did actually heal and survive. I can not swear that this worked miracles - perhaps the fish would have lived anyway. But I have seen a lot of fish die from much less serious injuries and I was 100% the fish was on it's way out. I am very happy the fish survived, and not only for my son. It is part of a bonded pair and I understand they mate for life. I'd have really sorry for the one left all alone.
I can't say for certain that this works for injuries, but I honestly believe it helps. I also believe it to be efficient for removal of chlorine. I will continue to buy this and am happy to recommend to others. I would also note that while I may skimp on chemicals, my tanks are generally understocked and have very frequent small water changes, keeping teh water crystal clear at all times. This means there will not be significant amounts of ammonia in my tank for the chlorine to react to and I can not recommend that everyone follow the same practice. The fact that I live in area without high chlorine, only a small amount of well aerated water is changed and the tanks are kept very clean makes a difference too.
I recommend this product for water changes, injuries and whenever you add new fish. Your fish should never be handled anyway - but if you happen to buy one from a pet shop where a silly member of staff uses their hands to catch fish, or some idiot does stroke one - I would add this as well to attempt to repair the slime coating. I have hand fed fish - I never ever attempt to pet them.
* Aeration and chlorine:
Simply aerating water vigorously will help reduce chlorine - and once in the tank the more dangerous and difficult to eliminate chloramine which is formed when ammonia and chlorine mix.
This is a tip I was given by a highly respected cichlid breeder and aquarium shop owner many years ago. When filling a bucket to add to your tank, hold your finger over the tap creating a very hard spray and bubbling the water. This exposes the water to air, allowing the chlorine to dissipate into the air rapidly. It will not remove every trace of chlorine, but will remove a substantial amount, quickly and easily. If you wish to see how this principle works scroll down to methods of aeration on this page:
http:// water.me.vccs.edu/ courses/ ENV115/ Lesson5_ print.htm
You will have to remove the spaces after each / or _
If you opt to let water sit overnight to remove chlorine - it is only through exposure to air that the chlorine dissipates - so use an open bucket not lemonade bottles with caps.
If your tank is showing high levels of chloramine or chlorine - use air stones to provide as much aeration as possible. I like to use them after a water change anyway - just to make sure.
KEEP THIS AND ALL AQUARIUM CHEMICALS OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN AND PETS!
Please remember this is a chemical and medicinal treatment. Most people do keep this type of thing under the aquarium. This is what I did before my sons were born, but I did catch a staffy trying to chew through a bottle once. I could have poisoned my dog by accident. I can't say if it was just my dog - or if something smells tasty to them in this but better safe than sorry.
Summary: I believe this saved our cichlid and is effective for regular treatments.