Group: Fruity floral gourmand
My nose finally back in order after a week of flu, I was eager to pick up a new scent. From a lot I ordered from ebay US containing perfume samples from American brands I was curious about, I went for young and niche perfume house Bond No.9 known for their creations they named after New York, its artists and its famous landmarks. Nuits de Noho or Noho Nights promised to deliver 'A new kind of nighttime femininity: Irreverent, unapologetic, favors a shot of icy vodka. A contemporary fruity-floral gourmand skin-scent that's the ultimate in sexy avant-garde urbanity'.
My sample looks like sweet wrappings in a luscious, deep violet blue colour so the foody side is immediately addressed. The traditional angular Bond bottle resembling a star pictures a starry night this time on a velvety deep bleu background. There's no denying that Bond No. 9 puts great effort into their its design. Time after time they come up with interesting and colourful imagery fitted around a selected theme and dress up the bottle accordingly whilst its shape itself remains the same.
Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, pineapple
Right off the bat, I'm getting a hit of Angel and the unmistakeable, somewhat synthetic sweet characteristic of it only in a cheaper and stripped down version. The main flavours are honeyed patchouli with a spicy and dry touch that's nice but fairly underdeveloped and an ever-increasing soapy edge which kind of disturbs me. The overall opening accord does not smell as natural and fresh or even gourmand as I expected. It's an artificial candy - sweet mess with a vanillic edge that luckily gets straight down to smoothy - fruity syrupy business a few minutes later as it starts to reveal its heart.
Middle notes: jasmine, rosewood
As the accord deepens, sweet fruits, vanilla and patchouli become the dominant elements giving a smooth and syrupy aroma. Nuits de Noho suddenly feels expensive and at the same time cheap and synthetic from the remaining notes if that makes sense. A whiff of juicy pinapple lurks in there appearing later accompanied by a tiny hint of fruity leather however, that's where the complexity ends.
A warm, sweet, smooth mixture that somehow gives it an edge and pushes it beyond a simple fruity floral gourmand category. For a few hours, the fragrance does have an opulence and warm richness I like about it veering towards a modern version of the rare fruity chypre oriental category, but here's a catch. The whole compositon, and mainly the heart is somehow 'white', as in fluffy and soft but somehow the overriding sweetness is making it odourless. The medium projection is pleasant and stays around for around half a day.
Base notes: patchouli, vanilla, musk
It doesn't take longer than five or so hours for Nuits de Noho to dry down to a skin scent that's unlike its beginning stays very close to the skin and is almost imperceptible from further away other than your clothing. I'm still on the fence and I think the only reason I'm liking it is not because of its own merit. I'm getting used to it certainly or because it has retained some of the fruity - leathery sweetness I so love in Mouboussin and Patou Forever (reviewed next).
What they mainly share is the sweetness and the smooth syrupy feel, however Nuits de Noho fails on many fronts in comparison to the former two: far less rich, original and powerful, it's as if the two were rolled into one and diluted down to a microscopic level with gallons of sweet, Angel-knock off synthetic musk added, you know the type? Yes, that's what the dry down smells like to me and there's really nothing to write home about. Disapponting.
Having a strapline of 'Easy to wear, easy to love fragrances' should have sent alarm bells ringing. Obviously, liked and worn by everyone is a sort of a no-no in niche circles and goes against everyting niche stands for: quality raw materials worked on by qualified perfumers whose work on every fragrance is akin to an artist working on a piece of art. Or am I missing something here? The only niche thing about Nuit de Noho is its price point. Non-descript and completely unoriginal, Nuits de Noho is a candy-like, feminine, smooth, sweet and creamy juice that's likeable enough but does have not an ounce of niche or even some sort of European and certainly not French perfume standard about it. Lacking overall harmony and character especially for the price, it comes off pretty much as just 'meh'.
The nice, gourmand components could have been made into something different and better, that's not where the biggest problem lies. By adding more character to the middle of the road and common sweet base by using bold raw materials with more character and less of the overriding sweet musk, Nuits de Noho wouldn't be so reminiscent of the non-descript sweet perfume scent someone left off after they left the room. Did Bond No. 9 make Nuits de Noho smell just like the leftover from anybody's fragrance, particularly Angel diluted, tamed and stripped off their personalities and strength on purpose? Could it be that Nuits de Noho is supposed to be the white noise smell that develops when too many fragrances are mixed in a room from people and produce a scent like perfume but nothing in particular? And in which room at least one person wore Angel?
If yes, then that's what this fragrance is. Trying to please everybody, pleases nobody. With no foundation and barely a backbone, the fragrance does stand on a good (borrowed) idea but its execution is shabby. If you want something original, even groundbreaking and unique, Nuits de Noho is the anti-dote of all that and so not worth the money.
PRICE AND AVAILABILITY
In the UK, large department stores and some airports as well as Amazon UK carry the line starting at £116 / 100ml Eau de Parfum. The best option is to give it a try and get hold of a sample of it either at the aforementioned outlets or for about £3 - £4 on eBay.
©powered by lillybee posted on both dooyoo.co.uk and ciao.co.uk websites
Launched: 2003 / Group: Woody Floral Musk