* Prices may differ from that shown
Group: Oriental spicy
Caron is a legendary perfume house established in 1904 by Ernst Daltroff in Paris. For more than a century Caron has continued to produce some of the most highly-regarded and beloved fragrances in perfume history as well as adding new children to its repertoire.
I own two versions of the fragrance, one being a now vintage round bottle with the bee-engraved stopper bottle from the nineties. As I was running low a couple of years ago I invested in a new, thankfully unreformulated edition repackaged in a tall polka dotted glass with the round golden stopper shared by many classics such as Narcisse or Nuit de Noel. I like the old-new packaging and it's full on turn-of-the-century glamour and antique charm.
Top notes: cardamom, cinnamon, black pepper, mimosa
The fragrance opens up with a bright, tangy and fruity orange - lemon accord that's immediately joined by a blast of naturally aromatic spice with peppery and earthy nuances. The complex start and the darkness of the spices hide the more delicate florals from sight for the time being. I do get a slight soapiness that might be coming from the mimosa though. The bright and slightly cold classic opening darkened by a spicy nuance smoothens and evens out gradually as the warmth of the heart starts cutting through in about 10 minutes.
Middle notes: jasmine, rose, orange, clove
The main focus now shifts to a peppery, dry and powdery rose that has a softened, dried effect about it provoked by the dustiness of spices that surround it. The florals are surprisingly light and lively mainly thanks to the mimosa and not at all brash, old-school or soapy as it could have been without it. The rose in the heart is similar in structure and texture to Pour Une Femme, they share the same dark and dusky smoothness. However, Parfum Sacré is also fruitier and has other florals that make it more than just a rose-insense fragrance. The orange and pepper remain quite prominent whilst the rose sort of takes a backseat from a few hours onwards.
Clove is now what I pick up most mixed with orange and bright, powdery mimosa creating a rich, full, but also light and transparent heady spicy floral symphony with accents of dusty resins and musk. Sacré is gothic but not in your face and vulgar but natural and ancient, like blends of incense that have been burned and refined through centuries to get the perfect mix. The slightly soapy touch retains that elegant, French allure and you can tell it's a Caron by its subtle and restrained arrangement of dusty spices recalling carnation-based classics and their dark, musky, brittle roses with a natural astringency of wild honey.
Base notes: musk, vanilla, myrrh
After about 6 - 7 hours of moderate projection, the final threads of a fine, warm, soft and powdery myrrh insense start appearing. The main element, myrrh is just so exquisitely sensual in a quiet, womanly and comforting way. The accord is undoubtedly a nod to Opium as it's just as feminine and insensy with a classic, balmy and powdery tendency but Parfum Sacré is a lot more restrained in execution. The drydown also has a definite sweet creaminess about it which I miss in Opium.
Myrrh can darken a fragrance considerably however thanks to the sweet and powdery vanilla nuances that cut through the otherwise harsh, dry and smoky myrrh, the overall composition is extremely refined, balmy and smooth. The ultra-silky musk reminiscent of the musk in Chaos further lightens and softens Sacré up to a beautiful, comforting hum of a hymn sung quietly in the depth of a temple. Intriguingly warm and cold, snuggly and distant, it wears close to the skin and stays detectable up to 12 hours.
I always feel feminine, grown up and womanly wearing Parfum Sacré and judging by Caron's perfume-making genius I think Parfum Sacré is exactly what it's meant to do. It's certainly not for the cotton-candy generation but for women with a penchant for classic spicy oriental florals with a modern twist who'll appreciate this beautiful creation. Parfum Sacré bears its name well: it does have an air of solemnity and calmness of ancient temples and smoky rituals about it without being too sombre or churchy.
On the contrary, thanks to the lively florals and a dusting of just enough spice coupled with the incredibly well-balanced, creamy heart and a smooth, silky myrrh finish, it wears like a perfect glove and is like your own skin's scent but better. It does require the right chemistry but if you like and are able to pull of spicy and not too sweet scents such as Opium and want to try something quieter, unique and more refined, Parfum Sacré will be right up your alley.
Caron has managed to make another extremely-well put together, harmonious, elegant and timeless, discreet and whispering oriental beauty that I hope will be around for at least another century. As it's based on timeless spices and resins that have been around since thousands of years, it's like a beautiful flow of gentle insense made with resins, flowers and spices. It's classic in approach and transports you to places and at the same time modern, chic and accessible. Cleopatra would have doused herself in this. I love it for the office as its discreet and for a snuggly night in as it's so comforting. For a big occasion, I'd wear something bolder and louder though. Equally beautiful dressed up or down, this sacred juice is a very special 'fume indeed. Try before you buy.
PRICE AND AVAILABILITY
Being part of Caron's more affordable and accessible lines, the price for the purse spray is between £13 - £21 / 30ml Eau de Parfum on Amazon and Fragrance.net. The 100ml bottle is around the £50 - 65£ mark. Samples available from luckyscent.com
©powered by lillybee posted on both dooyoo.co.uk and ciao.co.uk websites