“ Brand: Isabel Derroisne / Type: Fragrance / Concentration: Eau de Toilette / Gender: for women „
Group: Floral woody musk
~ INTRODUCTION ~
Having bought and loved Ilaya, a lovely woody oriental eau de toilette from the Isabel Derroisné line, I now own five miniatures from the rest of the line including Ame Toscane. Isabel Derroisné is a cosmetic brand from Paris that distinguishes itself and its perfumes by drawing inspiration for her ingredients and compositions from different cultures and continents and by using natural essences in her fragrances.
~ THE PACKAGING ~
A rare and remarkable flacon comes in a shape of the torso of a woman's back which is repeated exactly on the other side as well. The stopper is her hair blowing in the wind. The carton box is peach-coloured and decorated with a golden floral / vegetal pattern. Due to its shape, the bottle doesn't stand up on its own, so I laid it down on its side as you can see from the picture.
~ THE FRAGRANCE ~
Top notes: peach
Real, juicy but unripe peach is what I smell first, that can also be described as the odour of the fruit's skin while it's still on the tree. It smells very authentic, I imagine the hell of a work that's gone onto creating this accord, must have been done by adding green notes to the peach one in an intricately calculated way.
Heart notes: iris, cedar
This peachy - green phase doesn't last long as about 15 - 20 minutes later rounder and softer floral notes arrive. There's a definite shower-fresh floral note that mixed with a bitter-sweet freshness reminds me of Jlo's Glow. Ame Toscane has the same soapy - floral note which when mixed with the green and peachy notes create a 'just taken a shower' feel. The two fragrances do differ in a way, Ame Toscane's soapy-fresh note is slightly colder and more bitter than Glow.
Yes, there's a certain type of coldness too in the accord, which isn't unpleasant in any way. Iris, one of the rarest and most expensive perfume ingredients lends this cold, noble and slightly dusty feel and when coupled with fresh and woody notes it becomes particularly poised and balanced. The overall phase lasted for about 4 - 5 hours which I enjoyed throughout despite my usual preference towards warmer, softer scents.
Base notes: sandalwood, vanilla, musk
The final phase of the fragrance is softer than its precedent with musk and a hint of vanilla holding up the remainder of the fresh and woody notes. The vanilla isn't even detectable as such, it actually adds softness to the accord. To sum up, the drydown is a lovely, balanced mixture of musk and woods with just a gentle presence of vanilla. The staying power impressed me, despite its eau de toilette strength, it could still be felt after 8 - 10 hours and up to 24 hours on clothing.
~ CONCLUSION ~
I'm happy to have found Ame Toscane as the fragrance really is a genuine and rare display of ingredients that are being used in a unique and authentic way unlike in mainstream perfumery. The theme of soapy shower freshness makes it an unusual addition to my wardrobe, however this fragrance is so well-done that I wear it with pleasure.
This eau de toilette wears well in winter as well as summer as its natural ingredients never get overpowering but still have a presence even in cold weather. If you like fresh, floral, slghtly bitter scents with a gentle woody-musky base, I strongly recommend Ame Toscane. Ideal as a gift too, it exudes class and niche perfumery and was made with the finest ingredients.
~ PRICE AND AVAILABILITY ~
Isabel Derroisné fragrances aren't yet well-known in the UK, but may be distributed in high-end department stores. I bought mine as part of a lot however an individual miniature would normally cost anything between f £1 - £5 or more if rare. I suggest checking on ebay France as a 50ml full bottle can be snapped up between £10 - £15 plus postage, far less than the recommended retail price of £49 / 50ml EDT.
Thanks for reading.
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