“ Brand: Jean Patou / Type: Fragrance / Concentration: Eau de Parfum / Launched: 1998 / Group: Chypre Fruity „
in case it gets discontinued
Group: Chypre fruity
I have great respect for the perfume and couture house Jean Patou founded in Paris in the 1930s still offering a range of classic and modern fragrances. Besides a bigger bottle of Sira des Indes, I also own a number of their miniatures including Patou Forever Eau de Toilette.
The slim, square bottle and its small, round cap stand out by their simplicity compared to Patou's more sophisticated and classic packaging such as Joy and Sublime. The golden and fushia colors are also more modern and flamboyant and fit the juice well.
Top notes: pineapple, raspberry, melon
Forever's opening is unusual and hard to place as it changes minute by minute. A blast of exotic fruits give it a sugary sweetness at first but that is almost immediately offset by a burst of fresh, detergent-smelling aldehydes which is unusual for a fruity start. The mixture definitely tones down the fruity sweetness and blends in gradually with the heart in the next fifteen minutes or so.
Middle notes: jasmine, rose, lily-of-the-valley
As the fragrance warms up, the floral aspects become apparent with clean, aldehydic jasmine and lily-of-the-valley dominating the scene. The rose is sweet,fruity and jammy somewhat in contrast with the rest of the crisper, laundry-fresh white florals. There's a touch of fruitiness that now smells just like raspberry cordial and pineapple syrup lingering over the fresh laundry scent . However, this fruity twist does save Forever from being a straightforward classic white floral and gives the floral aromas a young and unusual twist.
As Forever was made in good nineties fruity floral tradition, the fruity element never distracts from the main thread. The strong, somewhat soapy and classic white floral heart develops a salty and musky hint over time which makes Forever a one of a kind, sensual and unusual breed in the genre. The accord projects steadily around me for a good 4 - 5 hours and even more so when the temperature is rising as in the last few days, when it suddenly comes alive like a dozing kitten tickled by the sun and starts dancing with joy!
Base notes: amber, vanilla, woods
The base is sweeter than I expected and when mixed with a soft, whispering vanilla and what smells like sandalwood / Virginian cedar to my nose. the result again is not your average and boring vanilla base so common nowadays in fruity florals.
The woods have an unmistakeable, sharp, metallic or ammoniac edge to it and that puts Forever back in Patou-land. Again, on all three levels, I'm suspecting aldehydes at work as these chemicals are supposed to brighten up the fragrance and often have a sharp, laundry-detergent or metallic undertone.
To sum up, the base is a creamy but woody finish that rounds the fragrance off beautifully and lingers on with a slightly soapy - metallic tang for the rest of the day. Such longevity of the drydown is impressive for an eau de toilette concentration.
From high society Joy made for the glamorous 30s and still in production to affordable, fun and still rich and sensually French Sublime and Forever à la 1990s, Patou spans decades and always manages to reinvent itself and offer something in and very Patou. Without resorting to forgettable, low-quality and mass marketed juices that dominate the market since the 90s, Patou stays faithful to its heritage and even their modern creations retain class, quality and that something 'Patou' they all have in common. Forever takes some getting used to but ultimately its quirkiness also gives it the edge and distinction that sets it apart.
Surprisngly versatile, fun and full of flamboyance as well as clean; sharp and slightly soapy, it takes a certain personality to appreciate Forever. I liked it more than I expected and this is from me who normally shies away from soapy florals. Yes, it's one of the core elements and yet Forever is so much more. Thick, flirty fruits, jammy rose and dense jasmine, all ideal to brighten up these still freezing early spring days, it's fresh and crisp as freshly-ironed shirt but warm and anchoring enough for colder seasons / evenings.
Its combination of a soapy-detergent metallic-aldehydic crisp white floral heart melted by a generous dollop of syrupy but not too sweet tropical fruit anchored with salty - metallic amber wood adds a bit of an aminalistic, 'sweaty' and musky dimension playing with the sophisticated and clean backbone is what I admire in Forever, a unique salty fruity floral Patou style. I advise you hunt down a miniature to see if it's for you.
PRICE AND AVAILABILITY
Discontinued but still easily available online from perfume discounters (Fragrance X etc) and Amazon or Ebay starting from approximately £4.99 / 5ml miniature and £34 / 100ml Eau de Toilette
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