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Launched: 2001 - discontinued
Group: Woody Spicy
~ INTRODUCTION ~
I'm a miniature fragrance collector especially collecting rare or discontinued fragrances from the '90s or early noughties. These fragrance releases tend to have something in them I'm drawn to and enjoy more than the more commercial samey-samey fragrances of today.
~ THE FASHION HOUSE ~
Founded by husband and wife Aldo Pinto and Mariuccia Mandelli in 1954, Krizia is an Italian fashion label known for their classic and at the same time experimental clothing lines. Having branched into creating fragrances in 1980 they have since created 17 fragrances for women and men alike.
~ THE PACKAGING ~
Krizia comes in semi-transparent, white plastic box and its juice is housed in a thick, heavy-ish, cone-shaped glass bottle that's topped off with a white plastic cap. The shape of the bottle is pretty and unique and would have definitely been an impressive addition to the dressing table. The black and white poster theme actually matches the fragrance's feel well: luminous, airy but dry and spicy.
~ THE FRAGRANCE ~
Top notes: star anise
The first impression I get from Krizia is a powerful dose of spicy aniseed that is also dry with a fine woody quality to it that may be coming from the heliotrope. The accord is perfumey, non-sweet, but it is at the same time a really spicy and almost foody one that also projects excellently from the skin for the first quarter of an hour.
Heart notes: jasmine, iris, heliotrope
Moving into the heart, Krizia becomes increasingly sweet and powdery though clearly retaining its dry and spicy beginning. It takes on a more floral feel but it isn't predominantly flowery, but more like the texture of the plush, velvety fabric of violet or iris flowers (these two can be quite similar to my nose) if that makes sense.
On the other hand, as I put my nose close to my other arm I had the perfume on, I got a deep, almondy smell with a strong, white peppery effect tickling my nose that actually surprised me a lot. Heliotrope does have an almond facet, the pepper might come from the overlapping aniseed.
Overall, the heart was composed of a balanced, spicy and woodsy aroma with just a hint of powdery florals joining in to save it from being too linear and adding a touch of feminine sweetness to the composition.
Base notes: patchouli, musk, vanilla
After about 5 - 6 hours, the fragrance gradually shed its heart and reached its uncomplicated and soft base that was basically composed of tamed (very tamed, almost imperceptible) dry and woody patchouli with a dusting of vanilla sprinkling sugar.
The scent stayed closed on the skin and while the accord reminded me of the drydown of Neonatura Cocoon it only had a fraction of its staying power. Vanilla played the main note, though it was a woody and not an overly sweet one, while some of the sweetness and powdery peppery feel that remained from the previous phase could still be detected.
~ CONCLUSION ~
I'm very pleased I bought this rare little number unsniffed, it's a shame they discontinued it I would otherwise buy a full bottle to replace my old Lancôme Hypnôse I got bored of and no longer wear and which also bears a very slight resemblence to it. As I tend to lean towards spicy, oriental and woody scents with a modern and unusual edge, a category less common amongst the most well-known commercial releases, Krizia is bang on my trend.
Longevity is of course very good at 8 - 10 hours even in hot weather while I've been wearing this for the past few days with temperatures over 30 C°. It didn't turn sickly sweet like most sweet orientals do in summer as the spices and woods offset its sweetness to a great degree. The blend is seamless, sheer and would even call it airy. It is somewhat linear too but this is due to the deliberately chosen matching elements that work really well together e.g heliotrope + patchouli + vanilla combination rather than lack of imagination.
I can actually see a lot of comparisons with the original Lolita Lempicka fragrance. Taking away most of the florals and sweetness and letting the spices come to centerstage, Krizia is like a spicier and woodier, more grown-up, elegant and minimalist version of the frilly, complex and girly-sweet Lolita. I like both though have to admit, I like Krizia better as it's more unusual and gears towards being an oriental woody rather than a more common oriental floral fragrance.
Highly recommended for collectors and fragrance aficionados alike to be sampled or worn preferably in winter or in the evening.
~ PRICE AND AVAILABILITY ~
Though now unavailable as a full-sized product, 5ml miniatures can still be found on ebay occasionally from international sellers for approx. £3 - £6 + postage. If you happen to own one, treasure it.
Thanks for reading.
©powered by lillybee also posted on ciao.co.uk