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Group: Fruity floral
I have a small collection of Lanvin miniature perfumes including three of the more recent ladies fragrances, Marry Me, Rumeur and the until now unreviewed Jeanne Lanvin Eau de Parfum. Jeanne Lanvin is the legendary dressmaker who founded the fashion house in the roaring twenties. This fragrance is supposed to honour her name and work in the fashion industry.
The clear, glass bottle is tall and retangular with a square stopper which makes it slightly unusual. The white and pink pale packaging suggests something girly and romantic. Lanvin has come a long way from their unforgettable classic creations such as Arpege or My Sin shrouded in dark and round poison bottles. Light, frivolous and no strings attached are the orders of the day.
Top notes: blackberry, lemon, pear
Jeanne Lanvin opens with the unmistakeable scent of blackberry with a hint of raspberry in the background. The accord is surrounded by a loud musky projection that strongly recalls the scent of fruit-smelling shampoos and conditioners. It is highly diffusive and only dies down about half an hour later when I get to appreciate the fresher, lemony facet of the top notes as well as the emerging heart.
Heart notes: freesia, raspberry, rose
The until now dominant musky fruity development is intercepted by the apparition of freesia, immediately recognisable by its shampoo-like and sweet soapy aspect adding to the synthetic feel so characteristic of body care products. There's also something tea-like in the composition comparable to a raspberry - blackberry infusion that is likely to be the presence of the rose and peony that can have an aquatic, sheer effect on white florals and also serve as a diluter to avoid a too dense and suffocating effect of the musk and florals.
To sum up the middle notes, there is a relative balance between the musk, the florals and the fruity elements, however, this is the only positive thing I can think of. The accord completely lacks interest as a perfume and is nothing more than a pointless functional accord that we know so well from household and personal body care products. The fragrance has a medium projection and stays noticeable for up to 4 - 5 hours depending on weather and skin chemistry.
Base notes: musk, sandalwood, amber
Finally, the fragrance settles into a light and soft musk skin scent interlaced with a creamy and smooth mixture of powdery woods. As all the sillage is gone by now it is totally unoffensive without the slightest hint of fruits or florals. This base could be nice if it had any projection, however it doesn't as it stays very close to the skin in the last 3 - 4 hours.
There is nothing artistic or even elegant and lady-like about Jeanne Lanvin. It is largely a synthetic fruit and musk concoction rich in the same ingredients that are abundantly used in functional perfumery (scents created for household and body care products) : sytnthetic fruity, floral and musk aromachemicals . As I cannot even smell a slightest hint of abstraction in it, I must think the fragrance was deliberately made to smell this way : in your face, common and synthetic.
Consequently, the result is devoid of any sophistication, thought and innovation, not to mention the ingredients that are predominantly synthetic. I'm shocked that even a legendary fashion house like Lanvin have lowered their standard to a point that they now package hair conditioner - smudged alcohol in expensive-looking glass perfume bottles and sell it as 'couture' and 'chic' (the successive flanker of Jeanne Lanvin EDP is actually called 'Couture'). The marketing people must have sussed this is what works for the crowds. Who are surely not as dumb as this fragrance?
PRICE AND AVAILABILITY
The full RRP in perfume shops and department store is £28.50 / 30ml EDP, £37 / 50ml EDP and £54 / 100ml EDP. The fragrance can also be found for approximately half price on Amazon and other online beauty discounters such as Cheapsmells.co.uk.
©powered by lillybee also posted on ciao.co.uk
A harmonious fusion between the world of the Lanvin House's founder and the most talented of its Art Directors / blended into one, unforgettable fragrance / Quintessence of modern femininity, the fragrance is meant to be deliberately gay, floral and voluptuous, with its joyful fruity notes / Top Notes: Wild Blackberry, cedrat and pear nectar / Heart Notes: Raspberry, white freesia and pink peony / Base Notes: Ambergris, sandalwood and musk /