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Group: Floral woody musk
I acquired three relatively recent perfume miniatures from Lanvin so after reviewing Marry Me launched in 2010, I'm now onto my second quest, the reformulated and relaunched Rumeur available from 2006.
Although the packaging of the original Rumeur doesn't play a reference, the bottle design definitely has a vintage connection as it comes with curved surfaces on a square base, a sort of hand-painted inscription instead of printed letters and a top that looks like a brass cap or cork of a flask. The outer carton also recalls the traditional Lanvin packaging in muted, cream colours. The 'mother and child' emblem the house is also present.
Top notes: magnolia
After a moderate application, rather conflicting notes hit my nose which smell of nail polish, white florals, powder and musk. The impression I'm getting is a sort of sharp, nose-scratching, sharp, lemony and peppery facet, not pleasant at all. Intrigued, I do a little research: the nail polish note is benzyl acetate, naturally found in white flowers.
It's so off-balance though that it smells quite unnatural and unpleasant to me. About ten minutes later, sweet and radiant magnolia peeks through the dense fog like a ray of sunlight. Sadly, the sharp, powdery - musky vibe goes on largely overwhelming the delicate floral note.
Heart notes: orange blossom, plum, rose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley
It takes another twenty minutes for the strong head notes to settle down somewhat and let the other elements come forth. In the accord I can only distinguish jasmine while about and hour or two later rose. The composition becomes increasingly transparent with only a light veil of powdery musk lingering on (without the acetone, that's gone huh!).
I like Rumeur at this point, it is indeed beautiful and the rose - jasmine and musk combination has a vintage aura about it. They are more aromatic than sweet and also have a dark, formal side that must be the patchouli coming from the base. Sillage and consistency are medium and will last about 3 - 4 hours which is fairly poor for an eau de parfum.
Base notes: musk, amber, patchouli
Rumeur falls flat on its face at the base as it practically evaporates completely after about 5 - 6 hours even in colder weather. What remains is a ghost of a combination of some cold, earthy patchouli that mingles with some clean musk skin -note, not knowing which one it wants to be. It doesn't seem to matter as no one will notice it anyway. After a few days testing I got fed up with having to reapply Rumeur halfway through the day.
To sum up, Rumeur is a fragrance that suffers from an identity problem: it doesn't really know what it is and what it wants to be. Rumeur comes across as a mish-mash of odour profiles that don't really fit together. If I was to enumerate the positives, the list will be short. The short-lived, captivating vintage-like heart showed a glimpse into the now sadly defunct original Rumeur it tries to resurrect.
However the current version is so behind both in craftsmanship and spirit of the original thirties or even the 1970's relaunch that it begs the question: why use the same name alluding to something that was / is legend and irreplaceable? Another massacre and mockery of a vintage classic on the altar of modern functional perfumery.
PRICE AND AVAILABILITY
The RRP for a full size (100ml) bottle is £52 or less online at about the £30 mark for the same size.
Thank you for reading.
©powered by lillybee also posted on ciao.co.uk
Lanvin Rumeur is a heady, floral feminine fragrance / Its complexity means that you'll detect different combinations of notes each time you have the pleasure of smelling it!