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Group: Oriental Floral
~ INTRODUCTION ~
I was given a sample of Fleur de Corail or Coral Flower back in 2008 the year it was released by Lolita Lempicka, the young, girly and sophisticated Parisian fashion house, but never got round to writing a review on it until now.
~ THE PACKAGING ~
Lolita Lempicka's latest addition to their original 'L' Eau de Parfum range carries on with the fairy-tale theme which is the signature of the house. The round and gently irregular bottle is evocative of the azure blue sea and the pebbles on the beach. The ornate stopper is in fact a pearl caught up in a golden mesh. A golden threaded and curvy L hangs off the edge of the bottle's neck.
~ THE FRAGRANCE ~
Top notes: grapefruit, lemon, bergamot
The moment I put Coral Flower on, I was greeted with a burst of a bittersweet, orange-y accord reminiscent of orange blossom biscuit (Navette marseillaise) you'll find in Provence bakery shops which is basically a hard biscuit flavoured with orange water. The top notes burned off really quickly though some of the bitter orange note made it into the next phase and created a bitter almond-y and creamy undertone to the blossoming white floral accord.
Middle notes: orchid, frangipani
The white florals weren't dominant but rather offset the fragrance's intensifying sweetness. Coral Flower also turned more gourmand as well as quite dense with a distinct toasted almond-cookie waft that was quite unusual and unexpected for me. It projected the sweetness and the creaminess more while the smokey almond accord stayed closer to the skin.
The next phase the fragrance developed was based around the frangipani flower note, giving the composition a tropical feel. Frangipani is a tropical flower and is used a lot as a perfume ingredient in 'Monoi' perfumes oils, sunscreen products and even wedding cakes. For me, frangipani has a sweet, creamy odour of gardenia, an exotic white flower with a gourmand edge. Add to that a gourmand, buttery and fresh out of the oven cookie accord and you'll get Coral Flower's heart. Altogether, the heart lasted an impressive 6 - 7 hours.
Base notes: Amber, musk, driftwood
The fragrance dries down to a slightly bitter, dry and quite powdery accord that still carries the almondy white floral heart which never really goes away. The drydown was also reminiscent of soft, plush, buttery and creamy vanilla and white flower which may have come from the orchid that was too hidden to be detected earlier. I was quite releaved that the full-on sweet, pastry-like frangipani had almost completely disappeared. The drydown lasted for another couple of hours or so hovering in the gourmand floral category but never fully becoming an oriental base.
~ CONCLUSION ~
The olfactory equivalent of Mediterranean biscuits, sunscreen and wedding cake? I guess I would have really liked Coral Flower in my more gourmand, floral-fruity era 5 - 10 years ago.
It's quite a stable blend so could actually work in all seasons however there's a bit of a contradiction here. It may be too dense and gourmand for summer wear but a bit odd and out of place for winter wear due to its tropical, holiday vibe. I'm too drawn to heavy, spicy oriental fragrances now so I don't quite want to be smelling of biscuits or sunscreen or can get the associations out of my head.
Even if this time, this gourmand tropical floral concept didn't win me over, I still recommend Coral Flower if you're looking for a well-thought out, well-blended and medium-weight creamy, modern tropical oriental composition that's pretty, girly and made up of quality ingredients. Which is basically true for all of Lolita Lempicka's creations.
~ PRICE AND AVAILABILITY ~
Available from department stores and online starting from £44 / 50ml Eau de Parfum or £58 / 80ml Eau de Parfum. Can also be bought online for somewhat cheaper.
Thanks for reading.
©powered by lillybee also posted on ciao.co.uk
Coral Flower was developed by Maurice Roucel and introduced by Lolita Lempicka in 2008. It is a floral, oriental fragrance.Notes include grapefruit, bergamot, orchid, frangipani flower, amber, musk and woody accords.