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Group: Fruity floral woody
: Introduction ::
I test perfumes as a hobby and have a toiletry bag full of vials to choose from. I've recently found a couple of vials of Rubylips, a 2004 addition to the Dali fragrance arsenal. Parfums Salvador Dali, the perfume house isn't widely known outside France I'd say, it was created and signed by Dali in 1982 to allow worldwide licensing of his works of fragrances and bottles designed by himself in the 1950-60s.
:: The bottle ::
The Rubylips Eau de Toilette is recogniseable by their distinctive lip motive and is a representation of Dali's Ruby Lips brooch created in 1949 from ruby coloured crystals and faux pearls. The bottle is a tall and stylish rectangle with five ruby lips sculpted onto it. The colour is ruby red including the square click-top lid.
:: The fragrance ::
Top notes: yuzu, apple, red currant
The starting notes of Rubylips are sour citrus and zesty red fruits blending into a fruity-fresh mixture. The somewhat dominant sour note makes it different from a lot of similar fruity openings where the fruits are usually sweeter and juicier. This sweet and sour note stays on for about half an hour, typical of a top accord.
Heart notes: orchid, waterlily, rose
About 15 - 30 minutes later Rubylips becomes softer, rounder as a slightly powdery but gentle floral tone develops. I cannot identify any of the florals at first, it's someting nondescript, unmemorable. Some time later I distinguish a powdery and musky note, that's warm and soft and has a violet - iris undertone. After an hour or so this notes develops into a powerful waterlily scent I can describe as lily-of-the-valley with a darker, iris-tinged heart. The waterlily note is fairly musky and powdery, even a tiny bit harsh and seem to dominate everything else for the next few hours.
Base notes: sandalwood, patchouli
About 3 - 4 hours later soft powdery finish emerges, like the scent of clean musk but warmer with spicy undertones. I assume this will be the accord of sandalwood and patchouli. Unfortunately, the pair were too subtle for me to tell them apart. I was disappointed that the base notes that are normally meant to underline and enhance the fragrance were so weak and I had to get really close to my skin to smell this phase. Even a generous application at the start only made the scent stay on for about 8 hours, too weak and subtle for my taste.
:: Conclusion ::
As I already own and wear three of Dali's perfumes released in the 1990s (Laguna, Dalimania and Dalissime), I dare say that compared to these complex and original fragrances Rubylips falls way short of perfect. It's fairly average being a red fruity floral though there's nothing wrong with that. What's wrong is that only half of the elements develop in the composition, making the middle and base notes incomplete and simplistic. The final letdown is the strength of the scent which is more equivalent to an eau de cologne. I liked it and would have probably worn it in my twenties. I'm into deeper, more oriental scents today, like Escada Magnetism. Samples are good things after all, I suggest you try one before purchasing.
:: Price / Availability ::
Dali fragrances can be found in discounted fragrance stores such as The Beauty Base in London, UK. Otherwise, most online perfume discounters will stock it. Currently found on Amazon.co.uk at a reasonable price of £13.99 / 50ml Eau de Toilette, Mini EDT and body lotion gift set.
Thanks for reading.
©powered by lillybee also posted on ciao.co.uk
A floral fruity fragrance /