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Group: Floral Green
I own and wear some of Serge Lutens' sweet, sumptuous and unusual oriental compositions such as Chergui, Rousse or Jeux de Peau and have recently added some of his other compositions of the floral genre to my collection including a 5ml miniature version of Sa Majesté La Rose Eau de Parfum.
The tall and clear bottle used across all 50m bottles of the Serge Lutens line is simple and elegant as well as the demure beige packaging. The colour of the juice can vary from perfume to perfume and is an oddly bright yellow this time which doesn't really match the fragrance in my opinion.
Top notes: Moroccan rose absolute, blue chamomile, litchi
Rose is the first note the fragrance offers however it isn't a sweet, juicy kind of rose one would expect from an absolute, but a sort of aquatic, green, woody and natural whole rose one, cut from the plant and sat in water. The opening which projects strongly in the first hour or so is quite sharp, bitter, lemony and almost unsweetened, strongly reminiscent of Tea Rose from the Perfumer's Workshop.
Heart notes: honey, clove, geranium
Whilst the opening clearly lacked the delicate, fresh and sweet aroma I associate with roses, as the fragrance settles, it becomes even drier and sharper, sort of like an old rose, that's been left wilting in the vase and has gone musky, bitter and watery. By now all the hardly ever present sweetness and juiciness gone, the composition turns bizarrely transparent and clean with a mossy edge to it.
There's almost no sweetness to the rose at this point however it definitely has an aged edge to it I'm finding hard to place.The softer, fresh and green-tinted rose stays very much in the background and blends in with a more assertive, powdery and almost masculine accord that sort of wraps itself around the fragile rose and stops it from being expressed.
Base notes: musk, vanilla absolute, guaiac wood
From about four hours onwards, Sa Majeste wears close to the skin and becomes a linear and dried old rose on me largely dominated by a certain sharpness like that of lily-of-the-valley soap. Again, I'm looking for even a hint of sweetness in vain and mainly getting a clean, somewhat soapy-smelling white musk with a hint of powder and moss similarly to a vintage base of chypre florals, only flatter and with less depth. For me the drydown is distant and cold and it is also increasingly sour on me so I enjoy it less and less towards the end when it finally disappears after about six hours of wear.
For a rose, I expected something a lot more feminine and rosy. With a name like this, Her Majesty the Rose should be something dramatic, sumptuous and diva-like or at least 'just' nice.
As the fragrance focuses on the sharp, lemony and crisp aspect of a green rosebud with supporting notes of woods and quantities of barbershop-clean musk, it could be pulled off by a guy easily but certainly not made for a diva.The similarities to Perfumer's Workshop's Tea Rose fragrance created in 1978 and which can be bought for about 10 dollars are undeniable. That's not to say Sa Majesté smells cheap because it isn't and nor does Tea Rose, but I expected Sa Majeste not to be so obviously connected to it. By the way I find Tea Rose better, as it's truly a natural rose plant, rosier and at the same time woodier, more natural and comforting and most of all affordable.
Due to its light and airy feel, the fragrance could work in spring or summer as it's completely inoffensive and let's be honest, banal due to its soapy, almost masculine edge. If I wanted a fresh, musky rose, I'd never go for this fragrance, its lack of complexity and depth leave a lot to be desired. Fragrance is very much a thing of skin chemistry and personal perception however the predominantly linear, clean and sour rose - musk combination I'm getting certainly does not make me recommend it for rose lovers as I think the fragrance does not at all do justice to rose, this wonderful and highly-prized natural ingredient in perfumes.
I'm sorry to say that given the notes and name I expected something really good, outstanding and beautiful, and even if not my type, I do and can appreciate what is well-done and beautiful. Unfortunately, Sa Majesté La Rose presents a facet of rose that is nothing like the delicate but strong aroma of a bouquet of freshly cut roses or even rose absolute for that matter. Rose is pretty much hidden from view and buried within all the other ingredients especially the musk my skin seems to amplify and ruins the rose for me. If you want a slightly bitter, plain, whole rose with a little bit of woods and moss thrown in, Sa Majesté could work for you. Alternatively, for a similar but better rose experience, try Tea Rose for a fraction of the cost.
PRICE AND AVAILABILITY
The lowest price online is at FragranceNet (£54.54), the RRP is around the £69 mark. Sold in department stores and some perfume concessions.
©powered by lillybee posted on both dooyoo.co.uk and ciao.co.uk websites
An ode to the glorious rose /