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Launched : 2005
Group : Oriental spicy
Sonia Rykiel is a French fashion label famous for their sweaters and knitwear. I have long-time wished to wear the original Rykiel Woman Eau de Parfum I have a miniature of but never got round to hunt it down online. One day I spotted Woman Eau de Toilette on ebay and bought it thinking it was a lighter concentration of the original.
Woman Eau de Toilette comes in a similar bottle as the Eau de Parfum except the fact that the colours and the decoration of the bottle have changed. The frosted glass with the light pink juice and the silver studded cap gives a muted, soft feel as opposed to the more flamboyant original. If I didn't know the fragrance and its big sister are meant to complement Sonia Rykiel's lingerie line, I would think the box and the bottle are a tad tacky and exaggeratedly girly.
Top notes : yuzu, pink pepper, wormwood, champagne
Woman Eau de Toilette opens up with fresh, bright citrus note along with the aromatic and warm burst of pepper. Seconds later the fragrance becomes sweeter and almost edible giving an impression of parma violet bonbons. It's fresh and aromatic, sweet and sour and has a sweetness - acidity duality to it which makes you want to get your teeth into it if you could.
Heart notes: rose, syringa, dyer's greenweed
About 10 - 15 minutes later, the fragrance turns more floral whilst staying fresh and sharp reminding me a lot of the heart of Comme Une Evidence. Indeed they are similar in their crisp rose and watery floral aspect but luckily, Woman EDT doesn't stop there. It develops a nice, powdery edge that reminds me of broom, this very heady floral aroma reminiscent of mimosa / violets. The accord is offset by dry and powdery pink pepper that gives the fragrance the spicy floral feel of Si Lolita.
The emphasis is still being on the somewhat watery florals however there is also a citric edge to the heart that stays on top of the swirling, warm cloud of sweet and powdery rose - violet drops underneath that have a bit of a hard time shine through and dominate the composition. I would say that a relative balanced is achieved between the fresh and sweet floral though it is not perfect. The sillage is moderate and does get noticed by others. I only wish it exuded more warmth and a bigger kick of sweet violets and roses as it feels a bit shy and underdeveloped.
Base notes : musk, benzoin, tonka bean, heliotrope
From half a day onwards that is about 7 - 8 hours later the fragrance sits close to the skin. I do catch whiffs of a gentle, powdery musk that's fresh and comforting though. The accord is fairly linear and is without any of the suggestive oriental notes listed above I'm afraid. The powdery aspect of the musk is a distant nod to the original EDP and to some extent Vivienne Westwood's Anglomania to muted and soft mix of powdery and vanillic amber with a hint of leather.
As for the comparison with the original Eau de Parfum, I would say that apart from the sweet, rosy heart and a similar powdery musky base, I don't find the Eau de Toilette at all similar. They are indeed two distinct fragrances belonging to two different olfactory families. Whilst the eau de parfum is a rich, powdery and must say provocative leather, the eau de toilette is a fresh and musky floral composition that is sadly only average in terms of originality and execution.
The main drawback to the fragrance is its weak staying power and that it's rather on the linear, slightly sharp and sheer side. It doesn't have that extra depth or smoothness I get from the Eau de Parfum so it may actually work better layered with a tiny amount of Woman EDP or even Anglomania to give that extra oomph and creaminess.
To sum up, this peppery and rosy musky floral could also work well in summer or spring as it somehow lacks a dimension to be warm and complex enough in winter. It will definitely not overwhelm and still have a nice powdery and leathery twist to it in the heat as opposed to wearing a more linear musky floral. I recommend it if you're into the sheer or spicy musky floral type of fragrances but not if you're looking for oriental spices and depth.
PRICE AND AVAILABILITY
My 40ml bottle cost just under £20 minus postage on Ebay, however at the moment Woman EDT is only available in full size costing in the region of £30 - £34 / 75ml Eau de Toilette online on Ebay, Amazon and CosmeticsNow.co.uk
©powered by lillybee also posted on ciao.co.uk