“ Brand: Thierry Mugler / Type: Fragrance / Concentration: Eau de Parfum / Gender: for women „
Group: Oriental vanilla
~ INTRODUCTION ~
I'm known for being passionate about perfumes so I received just that for Christmas. Along the package came a handful of vials from 2009 fragrance releases including a new, limited edition from the Angel series, Angel Liqueur de Parfum.
~ THE PACKAGING ~
The multifaceted, tilted star-shaped bottle looks more like Eau de Star which I have a miniature of rather than the original Angel flacon. The stopper is equally star-shaped but is transparent. The bottle has a darker medium blue colour as opposed to Angel's pale blue one. The bottle is wrapped in a black and silver box.
~ THE FRAGRANCE ~
Top notes: candied fruit
Just by smelling the vial you can tell about the liqueur connotations. After a generous two-drop application on my wrist, a strong and boozy patchouli smell hit my nose first mixed with a whisper of oriental sweetness. The fruits didn't develop until 5 - 10 minutes later and arriving late to start with, they did not take over the otherwise oriental theme. Or so I thought. Gradually, this crystallised sugar sweetness increased and at one point it was almost too much, until, luckily the middle components started to emerge.
Heart notes honey, liqueur notes
About half an hour later, chocolate rears its head. It's a woody and dry chocolate, not the foody and milky one. It's dark and conjures up an image of molten black chocolate being poured from a bottle of brandy. A vanillic hint of the background lightens up the scent somewhat but only slightly.
The sweet candied notes have gone now, which obviously does a favour to the real and darker side of Angel, and have given way to a quite prominent cherry-liqueur honey accord. I must admit, I enjoyed Angel in this phase more than I expected as it wasn't either too sweet or too vanillic, but balanced and just right. The heart notes were detectable up to 5 - 6 hours.
Base notes: patchouli, vanilla
As the day ended, a surprise was still in store. I thought we're pretty much back to Eau de Star territory with more patchouli and vanilla mixing up in a cosy and warm atmosphere when all of a sudden a smoky note emerged, like the aromas of a crackling fireplace.
There was a persistent cherry tobacco feel to the dry down, if you've ever smoked or was close to someone smoking cherry flavoured Captain Black mini cigars, this is the type of smell you'd be getting. It had little sillage but stayed close to the skin up to 12 hours.
~ CONCLUSION ~
I do not like overly gourmand scents and never liked the original Angel as I found it sickly sweet. Eau de Star was a step away from the original concept, giving way to a slightly more woody-earthy composition. Another step and a twist further and we're entering the wonderful world of booze. Fragrances are made up of 90% alcohol known for its aroma absorbing properties, so why not tranferring aromas from casks to give fragrances an aged and liqueur-like feel rather than adding synthetic substances mimicking the same effect?
The concept of ageing fragrances in casks where fermentation of alcohol took place isn't new. Mugler used casks for his A*Men Pure Malt (2009) fragrance to capture the notes from these casks that previously soaked up whiskey as well as two earlier limited editions of Angel La Caprice de Star and La Part des Anges in 2007.
Angel fans will probably be divided on Liqueur de Parfum as it has a more woody - smoky feel, though it's only prevalent in its last phase. Consequently, this fragrance could appeal to those who didn't like the overly sweet and foody Angel but appreciated Eau de Star. I would say Liqueur de Parfum is a night version of Eau de Star.
I've taken off one star for Liqueur de Parfum being another breed of Angel exploiting the same concept for the past 17 years, and another one off for the extravagant (and somewhat unjustified) price.
~ PRICE AND AVAILABILITY ~
Being a new product, it currently retails at £48 / 35ml Non-Refillable Liqueur de Parfum.
Thanks for reading.
©powered by lillybee also posted on ciao.co.uk