Le Dauphin Hotel (Fort Dauphin, Madagascar)
Le Dauphin Hotel, Port Dauphin, South Madagascar Our flight back from Fort Dauphin was due to leave at about 7am and so this would have meant leaving Berenty at 1am and driving the four and a half hours along a really awful road so that we would be there to check in two hours before the flight. We asked our guide about this ... and they contacted the tour company and changed it so that we had two nights at Berenty and one in this hotel in Fort Dauphin. It was not difficult as the same people owned both places and there an available room fortunately .
Having had two nights at Berenty and knowing it was the same owner we didn't have very high expectations for the hotel .Our driver dropped us at the front door and pointed us in the direction of Reception. A man came from the hotel and grabbed our bags and we followed him in.
The lady in reception greeted us with a lovely welcoming smile and asked us how we had enjoyed Berenty. She told us that we were on breakfast and dinner included but would have to pay for drinks and lunch which we did know but nice to have it confirmed. She also told us that our flight time had been changed and now the car would collect us from this hotel at 6.30am so we would actually be able to have breakfast before we left which was a bonus.
She explained that breakfast was in this part of the hotel but lunch and dinner were in another part of the hotel just down the road. She then took us and showed us our room which was actually right next to the reception area so not too far to walk in the early morning.
Just in front of the sliding doors into the room was a small a patio area which looked out onto the lovely tropical gardens. There was a really comfortable sofa with sponge base and big cushions behind. My husband enjoyed a little siesta there in the afternoon while I wrote a few reviews.
The room was not huge but was quite big enough for the night. We had a large double bed with three pillows. The bed was made with white cotton sheets, a blanket and a quilted bed cover in a dark burgundy. As the rooms were all open when we arrived I peeked in a couple and they all had different coloured bed covers but were otherwise pretty similar.
A round table and one chair allowed me to plug in my laptop and sit to type. All that was on the table as we arrived was a large lamp with a ceramic base and raffia shade. Behind me on the wall as I sat at the table was a book shelf, empty apart from a silk orchid, an ash tray and an empty photo frame. A fridge stands on a wooden stand but when I opened it I found that it was not really cold at all and when I went to ask at reception about the prices I discovered that it was a mini bar and the prices were higher than at the restaurant so we bought our water from there instead.
We had an air conditioner in the room which we hoped to use at night but during the day there was a lovely breeze going through from the back window to the open sliding doors at the front. These were very nice and gave a great view of the garden but did of course mean that anyone passing has a good view of us in the room too. The window at the back had no bars and we were on the ground floor so it was definitely going to be shut in the night.
This was not huge but adequate and clean and far more modern that those at Berenty. The toilet was newish looking, the basin has a unit around it and two towels were under the sink on a shelf, white and okay, not thick and fluffy but okay. There was a proper shower cubicle with doors. We were only given a small simple soap and nothing else and of course there was no hair dryer either.
The hanging space was in the bathroom behind the door as was the safe. When we arrived it was open but in the lock position so we had to go and ask for it to be sorted at the Reception desk. A man came within minutes and left us the key which sorted the problem.
When we arrived after our long drive from Berenty we had only had our bread and jam breakfast so we both fancied something to eat and a cold drink. We headed to the hotel next door and found a lovely big bar and on the other side a nice restaurant which looked out onto really pretty gardens. We had a bit of a walk around and found that there was a pool but that it was empty which seemed strange.
We were asked if we wanted to sit inside or out and we chose outside which was on a sort of patio overlooking the garden. We ordered cold water and cold beer and then studied the menu more closely. It was positively exciting to have so much choice. We could have had sandwiches, pizza, three course meals and there were some Malagasy dishes. We always like to try local food so we chose two dishes from those.
My husband had a zebu (beef) and ginger stew dish with rice which he said was very tasty and the meat really well cooked and tender. Mine was a local fish cooked in coconut milk which again came with rice. Rice is the main staple in the country and is grown in many areas throughout Madagascar and we saw a number of padi fields near Antananarivo and also on the drive between Fort dauphin and Berenty. My fish was obviously a large fish as it was almost meat like tuna and the sauce was very tasty.
We hadn't realised that the dinner menu was the same as the lunch special menu and so unfortunately my husband had chosen a dish from the special menu and the other dish was prawns which he can't eat so he had the same meal for dinner as lunch, I chose the same dish as it was the nicest on that menu. The food was much better than at their other hotel in Berenty where we had stayed for two nights before this and the service was polite and friendly.
There were lovely gardens and walking around we found a large swimming pool but it was empty. I don't know if this was a temporary thing or if they planned to refill it but it seemed a shame. We spent a while wandering around the grounds exploring and had planned to have a look around Port Dauphin but we seemed to be a fair way out of the town and this would have meant a taxi ride and we were not really sure what there was to see anyway . We chose to spend the afternoon relaxing and reading in the garden area which was most pleasant after all the walking we had been doing in the last couple of weeks.
We attempted to shut up the room and pointed the remote at the air conditioner and sadly nothing happened. We then remembered that we had had the small table fan pointed out to us on arrival. We put this on and indeed it blew hard across us in bed. It was not entirely pleasant to be blown at all night but the choice was that or bake as we had to have the back window shut as we were on the ground floor and backing on the a very dodgy looking piece of ground. The front of the room was one large sliding door so that also had to be shut for security so we really had little choice.
We had to get up quite early for our journey to the airport so I got up first to use the shower. I fiddled with the taps for ages and couldn't get any cold water. The result was an extremely speedy and rather hot wash of the essential bits and certainly no hair wash. About twenty minutes after we discovered this staff arrived with buckets of water and told us that they had no water in the hotel there was some problem. Luckily we had had a shower the night before and were not too dirty. We also knew we were flying back to Antananarivo and were booked in to the Tamboho hotel which was lovely so we not too bothered.
This was in a lovely room in our part of the hotel so very modern with nice views of the gardens. We were welcomed by the young girl there and shown to a table. She asked whether we wanted tea or coffee and then popped off to return with some fruit juice, our tea and coffee as well as French bread, a plate of fresh fruit and also some croissants. It was a pretty basic continental breakfast but at least we got some fresh fruit and juice with our French bread and jam.
We were next to the Reception area so we pulled our cases into the lobby and sat to wait for the car to the airport. As we had paid for our meal, not used the mini bar and everything else was included we just handed our key back in and that was all done.
WOULD I RECOMMEND?
Yes it was a very nice clean and comfortable hotel in lovely grounds but a little way out of the town. That may or may not have been a good thing as I do not know what was in the town and if that would have given you choices in places to eat. Judging by some of the other small towns in Madagascar I would think this unlikely but I may be wrong.
There were things that needed sorting out such as ensuring the air conditioners worked as a table fan is not great blowing at you next to the bed. The water problem may or may not have been their fault; it might have been a problem with water supply in the town. The rooms were nice and clean and fresh looking. The little patio areas in front of the rooms with a sofa to sit on was really nice as it was a comfortable place to sit and read. The food was all pretty good, the prices of the food and drink were reasonable and the staff were all lovely, friendly, smiling and helpful.
This deserves three and a half stars so i have gone for four stars.
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Tamboho Hotel (Antananarivo, Madagascar)
Tamboho Hotel, Tana Water front, Antananarivo, Madagascar We spent two nights at this rather lovely hotel in two different rooms. I think it was chosen for us by our tour company as it was pretty reasonably close to the airport and we had to get to and from the airport each time. THE LOCATION The hotel was in a ... sort of gated shopping and housing area but the shops were all the kind that sold very expensive things, designer clothes, designer baby items and rather odd arty shops so after one walk around the area we had seen there was nothing of any interest to us and returned to the hotel to relax. We had thought we might have lunch in a local cafe but as the only one around was a pizza place we decided to eat at the hotel instead.
We did have a look beyond the gated area but the street outside had stalls selling car parts and other items that were for repairs of similar and not really the kind of stall that held any interest at all so back we went. The outlook of the hotel was across padi fields and a rather unpleasant drain which was being dug out by a group of workers at the time we were there. I understand this was called Tana Waterfront which held an entirely different mental picture for me when I read the address; I thought it would be a bigger water front, not the sea front as Antananarivo is not by the sea. It certainly was not the best location for this hotel but in spite of that we really loved this hotel on both stays it was just perfect for what we wanted at the time.
On the first occasion we arrived at about 11 am and luckily our room was available so we spent a very lazy day in and around the hotel. The reception staff on each occasion were very helpful, friendly, welcoming and efficient. The reception desk is quite small and next to a sitting area which is modern, sleek but comfortable. The floor was solid wood throughout and this seating area was slightly raised and to the right of the entrance door.
If you went beyond the reception desk then you came to the dining area and bar which had a great view of the 'Tana Waterfront' drain digging. The bar was pleasant and the bar staff smiling and pleasant. In the morning the bar was used for the coffee and juices and cereals parts of the breakfast buffet.
The restaurant had an inside and a balcony area with a roof for shade but it was open along the sides. We really loved the two huge photos on the wall of Malagasy people with huge smiles, every time you looked at them you had to smile yourself. I'll come back to the restaurant later.
Both rooms were similar. They each had solid wooden floors, large king sized bed with really good bedside lights and each side had a bedside storage table for your book, glass of water etc. As you entered the room there was a wardrobe on the right with a coded safe and hanging space. This was a smaller side part of the room. Straight in front was the bathroom and then the main room was mainly to the left. Each room had a large picture window and small balcony; both our rooms looked down onto the pool and the 'Tana Waterfront' then over the padi fields to the city beyond.
I really liked the sleek minimalist look to the room which has modern lamps, pine desk unit and chair, flat screen TV on the wall but also had Malagasy pictures on the wall. The bathroom wall had a large circle window cut out and the only thing giving a bit of privacy was a silk hanging on a wooden frame which was changed for each guest (I know because we arrived while they were making up our room and i watched them putting ours up) The hanging looked like a Nepalese weaving to me and in fact the uniform of the staff had an Indian look to it too but otherwise the hotel was more Scandinavian in its sleek modern, minimalist look.
I have already described the 'window'. Our first bathroom had a wooden sliding door but our second seemed to be missing this. Just as well we had not private secrets as this did mean that using the bathroom was not exactly a private affair. Apart from the lack of door and the thin fabric screen over the 'window' the bathroom was wonderful.
There was a huge walk- in shower with two shower heads. One was an enormous rain type shower head and the other was a smaller one you could hold in your hand. We only used the huge rain type one so I don't know what the other was like. The walls were tiled in a dark bronze black and the floor was black tiles so the impression was modern but dark. The shower screen was clear glass.
The basin was white and sat on a black shiny shelf with shiny stainless steel central tap. We had nice shampoo, soap, shower gel and body lotion all containing aloe vera and these were sitting on a wooden dish. The towels were rolled and put in a large terracotta plant pot. The walls were all white as was the toilet and the towels and the tissue box cover. The best thing from my point of view was the hairdryer on the wall; a proper one not one of those vacuum hose type things that huff warm air at you. This was the only hotel on our holiday that had a proper hairdryer so I was thrilled.
On our first stay we were leaving at about 3am so a bit early for breakfast so they offered to pack us a boxed breakfast. When we came down to wait for our driver to take us to the airport the breakfast buffet was set out so we were able to grab a cup of tea and some fruit but they still packed us a box each to take with us which was very thoughtful. The box had croissants, Danish pastries, some Indian samosa type things and a drink, all very good and satisfying.
The second time we stayed we were not leaving till later so we were able to experience the entire buffet. The fruit juices were cool and there was a choice of three. Tea and coffee was in large insulated jugs. A choice of fresh fruit, cereals, and French and Danish pastries as well as hot stuff like eggs cooked to order. I decided to try some of the Indian samosa and pastries which were quite tasty then a crepe after my usual fresh fruit. It made a very pleasant change from the French bread and jam we had enjoyed in other hotels.
LUNCH AND DINNER
We ate one lunch and two dinners at this hotel. There was a pretty extensive menu offering a range of meals from pho (Vietnamese soup) through to zebu steak and some Malagasy dishes as well as other Asian dishes.
The pho was delicious and just as good as those we had eaten in Vietnam. I had that as a 'small' lunch choice but couldn't finish it as it was such a generous portion, full of meat. At each meal we had we were brought tiny 'amuse bouche' with our drinks which we thought was a nice touch. We also both tried the zebu dish and it was tender and tasty, so good in fact that my husband had it twice. I think my other meal was guinea fowl and my husband's was a chicken dish, both served with rice in a small dish. Presentation was modern and on white square plates which looked really tempting.
The hotel corridors were like the rest of the hotel had wooden floors, the walls along parts were glass so you overlooked the pool or the street below. Along the closed in parts there were large pots and statuettes standing in alcoves.
The stairs leading up to the upper floor were black iron spiral rails with wooden steps. The upper floor had several parts and each had a separate staircase. There were only two rooms in our section and outside the room was a small fridge. We could help ourselves to any of the bottled waters or soft drinks in the fridge for no extra charge. This was great for us as we spent the day mooching around the hotel, making using of the comfortable room, the free wifi and free drinks coffee and tea in the room and having a wonderful hot shower, washing my hair and drying it. We read and relaxed and thoroughly enjoyed this luxury after all the walking we had done.
The hotel was really lovely and the food excellent but it was some way out of the city. We did a tour of the city and to be honest there is not a lot there for the tourist to see in my humble opinion so I am not convinced that I would want to be right in the city. This is one of two different hotels we stayed in Antananarivo and they were both really lovely, quite different and neither very central. I would not hesitate to recommend either of the hotels we stayed in while in this city. If you want to explore the city then it would be very easy to take a taxi and go into the city. We had a driver and guide and it took a while to get to either hotel from across the city but I would think that either hotel would be a perfect place to stay as I am not sure where you would want to be in the city as the centre was really a business district and restaurants seemed to be tucked in different places around the city.
Despite the strange location I am going to allocate five stars because it was perfect from our view point.
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Berenty Lodge and Private Reserve (Madagascar)
Berenty Lodge and private Reserve South Madagascar Berenty is in the far South of Madagascar. We flew to the coastal town of Fort Dauphin where we were met and driven to Berenty Private Reserve where we stayed two nights in a simple en-suite bungalow at Berenty Lodge with, dinner and breakfast included. The drive from Fort Dauphin ... is a very long four hours in a for wheel drive without air conditioning along a dusty and very poorly maintained road.
The road was built in 1956 and made of tarmac but NOTHING has been done to maintain it since ,large parts of it are washed away and there are huge holes up to two foot deep and as long and varied as you can imagine and worse. It was 85 km and it took well over four hours to get there so that might give you some idea.
Berenty reserve is set in spiny forest and also a dry deciduous forest surrounded by sisal plantations. It is Madagascar's most famous reserve and the easiest and best place to see Ring-tailed lemurs and the common brown lemurs as well as the wonderful Verreaux's sifakas which leap along the ground.
The bungalows are brick built with tiled roofs but inside is lined with bamboo stained in a pattern. This goes down to half way on the wall. Below the bamboo is plain painted cream walls. The bungalow has screened windows with wooden slatted windows so that even when they are closed the breeze can get in but it does make the room a little dark during the day. The window in the front of the bungalow opened sideways but as the sun was beating down that direction we didn't leave it open and did pull the curtain across to try and keep the room cool.
There were two smallish single beds, foam mattress on wooden base with one small pillow each. There was a spare blanket in the wardrobe but no extra pillows. The beds were made fresh with white sheets and a blanket and a candlewick cover; it is years since I have seen one of those. The floor was tiled throughout in light coloured ceramic tiles.
This had a toilet which worked though we only had one very mean roll of paper so I went and pinched the spare one from the toilet at the cafeteria as we appeared to have no room service all the time we were there. There was a basin and a shower tray sunk into the floor. There was a shower curtain but it was worse than useless except for privacy as it was about a foot off the ground and so water from the shower went under it. The big plus with this lodge was that we had hot water; the pressure was pretty naff as it dribbled out if the shower nozzle if it was it its fixing but came out better if you took it down and held it. But at least it did take the total freezing shock out f the water so you could wash your hair and not have a heart attack from cold water.
We were given a tiny bar of very ordinary soap and that was all. There were two creamy coloured thin but reasonably sized towels which we had the whole time we were there. Needless to say there was no hair dryer. However in the main room we did have the benefit of an overhead fan and that was great. The electricity went off between 10 pm and 5.30am but it did mean it helped when you were hottest in the day and early evening. Despite being screened and using 50% deet repellent we both got bitten in the room. There were mosquito nets but stupidly we chose not to use them thinking the room was screened but it would have helped if they had left a can of spray as I think a quick spray before we went to dinner would have killed the pesky beasts.
THE RESTAURANT AND BAR
This was a palm roofed building which was open at the sides. At one end was a small shop selling local crafts then there were dining tables, a bar and a kitchen and then there were a number of more comfortable seats where you could sit and relax or enjoy a drink, read a book or just watch the lemurs going about their daily business.
We stayed on a bed breakfast and evening meal basis here and had to but our lunch. The food here was expensive and very average. This was by far the most expensive of the places that we stayed while in Madagascar but there was no choice as it was miles from anywhere. Beer was about twice the price of anywhere else and this was the only place where we had to buy ALL our water. There was none left in our room and when we were met at the airport by the Berenty guide and driver we were not given any and this was the only time on this trip.
On the first day we were given either coffee or tea in a jug with no lid and if you asked for milk you got condensed milk. I know that was the only option years ago but UHT is so easy now and tastes much better in drinks than condensed. We were then brought four dry French bread slices and four slices of a sort of plain Madeira type cake, two tiny butter pats and some jam. The best part of breakfast was watching the ring tailed lemurs jumping on to the tables and trying to steal the brad and cake. On the second morning we were given small jars of homemade plain yogurt and then the bread and cake, so not very exciting at all.
LUNCH AND DINNER
They don't seem to have grasped the idea of a sandwich as a possibility for lunch and still offer a three course meal. The trouble was that there options were actually the same as the dinner menu but just given a different name. The starters were soup or quiche, the mains were a choice of a lamb stew with rice or a prawn dish with a tomato sauce and vegetables with rice. One lunch time they offered a beef burger which we had and it was awful. I couldn't eat mine as I found grizzly bits in mine so I just ate the courgettes that came with it - no bread. I am not keen on stewed lamb but I also didn't like the prawns as they had left the gritty bit in they and so each one crunched, they were small and thought I tried taking the yukky part out I lost interest after about the tenth prawn. I am not sure what you would have done if you had been vegetarian as nothing was offered apart from the soup.
Now I'll write about the desserts that were offered. Bananas with chocolate came as chopped up bananas with the squeezy sauce you put on ice cream squirted over them, my husband had a slice of pawpaw on night, and a bowl of raspberries was another meal's dessert. It was really pretty meager and uninspired. Had I realized that we were paying for each part of lunch separately I would have not bothered with the burger and I would have had just the side plate of tomato salad which was okay but was just slices of tomato put on a plate with grated mango in the centre and not really very filling as we only had one slice of French bread each.
The lunch we paid for came to £14 and that was the tomato salad and beef burger which couldn't eat and a beer between us. We spent less than that on a delicious meal at a lovely restaurant in Antananarivo with two beers and a dessert so it was really very poor.
WHY GO THERE THEN?
The reason people come to the reserve is to see the ring tailed lemurs everywhere around the lodges as well as the little common brown lemurs. We had a whole group of ring tailed lemurs sitting on our patio and I sat in a chair next to two mothers and their babies having an afternoon rest one day.
The other reason is to see the amazing leaping Verreaux's sifakas lemurs jumping along the ground. It is also a unique place to visit for botanists as the spiny forest contains plants seen nowhere else in the world.
WALKING IN THE DRY DECIDUOUS FOREST
We had three walks in the surrounding local forest. These parts of the forest was luckily not destroyed when the family who own Berenty forest came in the 1930s to start up the sisal plantation. It wasn't until the 1980s that they decided to set up the private reserve and build the lodges for people to be able to come and see the ring tailed lemurs and Verreaux sifakas. The common brown lemurs were introduced from other parts of Madagascar and have flourished in the area too.
There are so huge and very beautiful trees in the forest and many lose their leaves in the dry season. It is quite strange as you walk along paths covered in what looks like autumn leaves and apart from the fact that the trees are different types and the temperature is well over 30 degrees you could be in an English wood in Autumn.
The first part of the wooded area had huge tall trees and when we were there the egrets were nesting really high at the top. Underneath the trees were coated in white bird poo and the forest floor was covered not only in dry leaves but also in feathers and bird droppings. I was always rather keen to move through this part quickly as it smelled like a chicken farm and I was concerned I might get some contribution from the egrets landing on me. The noise they made was really loud too so smelly, noisy and messy, altogether not my favourite part of the walk.
As we walk around our local guide alerted us to anything he spotted. We saw a huge variety of bird life from the smelly egrets nesting to a number of different cuas , guinea fowl, quail, magpie robins, black kites, fly catchers and so many more. They were very quick and quite shy so hard to photograph however my husband did get a few good shots with his SLR, my point and shot was not much good for birds.
We saw a huge colony of fruit bats arriving back after the night out and settling in the trees to roost for the day. They made loud noises and got fed up when another bat landed on their branch and they felt the need to fly off and settled elsewhere. They make a huge flapping noise as they are coming in to land then neatly fold the 'wing' around themselves as they hang upside down from the branches. The tree looked like someone had hung lots of black bags up in the tree from a distance but as you got closer you could make out their little faces.
One evening as we were walking around a couple of brown lemurs came to a deep concrete hole full of water and they were trying to work out how to lean down to drink the water without falling in. we watched for a while then the guide went and picked up a large stick and put it into the water. The two who had been sitting pondering leapt off but another lemur came down and ran down the stick and managed to get a drink so the guide's efforts hadn't gone to waste.
The highlight for us was watch a group of the Verreaux sifakas leaping from tree to tree then they came down and leapt across the road just in front of us. They jump on their back legs and throw their arms in the air, looking rather like children jumping for joy. These are the only lemurs that do the leaping along the ground and they just look so hilarious, we stood and watched the group for about half an hour at least. These sifakas are white with a brown top to their head and black faces; they look like they are wearing a little hat and have lovely soft creamy white fur and the prettiest little faces with bright round eyes.
The ring tailed lemurs are everywhere around the lodges and are very cheeky. This is the lemur that you see on the film 'Madagascar' and they walk along the ground waving their tails like flags as they go. They have much smaller faces and pointier noses than the sifakas and they are smaller altogether. They swing and leap through the trees at speed and sometimes run at speed along the ground. Their call is a bit like a cat's meow and you hear them calling each other as they wander around. They reminded me of cats the way they lay on our patio and the rather superior way they walked around the place waving their tails in the air. What was lovely is that when two arrived on a branch or wall or wherever then they would great each other and kiss and check each other's baby out as though they were long lost friends. The two mums on our patio wall sat sleepily while their little babies crawled all over each other and around. They always kept half an ear or eye open just in case they had to rush off but you could see their heads drooping and their eyes shitting from time to time.
We also went for a night walk in the spiny forest and that was very strange. These huge cactus trees mad the place almost ghostly and you had to be a little careful as some of the plants were very prickly. We saw a White-footed sportive lemur which just sat and looked at us wide eyed in the dark with its eyes shining in the torch light. We also saw two Grey mouse lemurs and they were tiny with real lemur faces but the size of a mouse but they could leap about four feet from tree to tree as though they were on springs. These two are nocturnal lemurs and unlike the diurnal lemurs these build a nest and have two or three babies in the nest. The diurnal lemurs have one baby and it clings to the mother's fur for about six months until it is confident in its leaping ability.
WOULD I RECOMMEND?
Well you wouldn't go to stay here for the food and accommodation but it is worth it to see the wildlife and the vegetation in the reserve. It is a long and uncomfortable though scenically interesting drive to get to Berenty. The lodges are okay, they were built in early 1980s and they look dated but they are reasonably comfortable. The food is pretty poor and there is not a lot of choice really. Luckily on the first day the hotel in Antananarivo had packed up a 'boxed breakfast' and we had only eaten one box so we shared the other as our lunch which spared us the food and the cost of lunch on our first day. So don't go for the food or the luxury accommodation as you will be disappointed but the setting is fantastic and having lemurs just walking past you in the grounds and watching you from a tree as you enjoy a cold beer takes a lot of beating.
Personally I think they should start by doing up one bungalow at a time as they are looking very shabby, particularly the bathrooms and they should offer decent pillows.They should also invest in solar electricity to save the use of a generator as in the long run it would save them so much money as the sun beats down every day. They need to do something about the food as it is a very poor breakfast, no fruit at all offered and bread and jam is very boring unless you are a ring tailed lemur! The rest of the food needs to be varied a little and some vegetarian option offered too. When you are there for three days and the same is offered for lunch and dinner every day, all be it with a different name but it looked and tasted the same, it gets very boring. If you can't eat prawns as many people can't for different reasons then you are even more limited in your choice.
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Africa Hotel International
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