Berenty Lodge and Private Reserve (Madagascar)
Berenty Lodge and private Reserve South Madagascar Berenty is in the far South of Madagascar. We flew to the coastal town of Fort Dauphin where we were met and driven to Berenty Private Reserve where we stayed two nights in a simple en-suite bungalow at Berenty Lodge with, dinner and breakfast included. The drive from Fort Dauphin ... is a very long four hours in a for wheel drive without air conditioning along a dusty and very poorly maintained road.
The road was built in 1956 and made of tarmac but NOTHING has been done to maintain it since ,large parts of it are washed away and there are huge holes up to two foot deep and as long and varied as you can imagine and worse. It was 85 km and it took well over four hours to get there so that might give you some idea.
Berenty reserve is set in spiny forest and also a dry deciduous forest surrounded by sisal plantations. It is Madagascar's most famous reserve and the easiest and best place to see Ring-tailed lemurs and the common brown lemurs as well as the wonderful Verreaux's sifakas which leap along the ground.
The bungalows are brick built with tiled roofs but inside is lined with bamboo stained in a pattern. This goes down to half way on the wall. Below the bamboo is plain painted cream walls. The bungalow has screened windows with wooden slatted windows so that even when they are closed the breeze can get in but it does make the room a little dark during the day. The window in the front of the bungalow opened sideways but as the sun was beating down that direction we didn't leave it open and did pull the curtain across to try and keep the room cool.
There were two smallish single beds, foam mattress on wooden base with one small pillow each. There was a spare blanket in the wardrobe but no extra pillows. The beds were made fresh with white sheets and a blanket and a candlewick cover; it is years since I have seen one of those. The floor was tiled throughout in light coloured ceramic tiles.
This had a toilet which worked though we only had one very mean roll of paper so I went and pinched the spare one from the toilet at the cafeteria as we appeared to have no room service all the time we were there. There was a basin and a shower tray sunk into the floor. There was a shower curtain but it was worse than useless except for privacy as it was about a foot off the ground and so water from the shower went under it. The big plus with this lodge was that we had hot water; the pressure was pretty naff as it dribbled out if the shower nozzle if it was it its fixing but came out better if you took it down and held it. But at least it did take the total freezing shock out f the water so you could wash your hair and not have a heart attack from cold water.
We were given a tiny bar of very ordinary soap and that was all. There were two creamy coloured thin but reasonably sized towels which we had the whole time we were there. Needless to say there was no hair dryer. However in the main room we did have the benefit of an overhead fan and that was great. The electricity went off between 10 pm and 5.30am but it did mean it helped when you were hottest in the day and early evening. Despite being screened and using 50% deet repellent we both got bitten in the room. There were mosquito nets but stupidly we chose not to use them thinking the room was screened but it would have helped if they had left a can of spray as I think a quick spray before we went to dinner would have killed the pesky beasts.
THE RESTAURANT AND BAR
This was a palm roofed building which was open at the sides. At one end was a small shop selling local crafts then there were dining tables, a bar and a kitchen and then there were a number of more comfortable seats where you could sit and relax or enjoy a drink, read a book or just watch the lemurs going about their daily business.
We stayed on a bed breakfast and evening meal basis here and had to but our lunch. The food here was expensive and very average. This was by far the most expensive of the places that we stayed while in Madagascar but there was no choice as it was miles from anywhere. Beer was about twice the price of anywhere else and this was the only place where we had to buy ALL our water. There was none left in our room and when we were met at the airport by the Berenty guide and driver we were not given any and this was the only time on this trip.
On the first day we were given either coffee or tea in a jug with no lid and if you asked for milk you got condensed milk. I know that was the only option years ago but UHT is so easy now and tastes much better in drinks than condensed. We were then brought four dry French bread slices and four slices of a sort of plain Madeira type cake, two tiny butter pats and some jam. The best part of breakfast was watching the ring tailed lemurs jumping on to the tables and trying to steal the brad and cake. On the second morning we were given small jars of homemade plain yogurt and then the bread and cake, so not very exciting at all.
LUNCH AND DINNER
They don't seem to have grasped the idea of a sandwich as a possibility for lunch and still offer a three course meal. The trouble was that there options were actually the same as the dinner menu but just given a different name. The starters were soup or quiche, the mains were a choice of a lamb stew with rice or a prawn dish with a tomato sauce and vegetables with rice. One lunch time they offered a beef burger which we had and it was awful. I couldn't eat mine as I found grizzly bits in mine so I just ate the courgettes that came with it - no bread. I am not keen on stewed lamb but I also didn't like the prawns as they had left the gritty bit in they and so each one crunched, they were small and thought I tried taking the yukky part out I lost interest after about the tenth prawn. I am not sure what you would have done if you had been vegetarian as nothing was offered apart from the soup.
Now I'll write about the desserts that were offered. Bananas with chocolate came as chopped up bananas with the squeezy sauce you put on ice cream squirted over them, my husband had a slice of pawpaw on night, and a bowl of raspberries was another meal's dessert. It was really pretty meager and uninspired. Had I realized that we were paying for each part of lunch separately I would have not bothered with the burger and I would have had just the side plate of tomato salad which was okay but was just slices of tomato put on a plate with grated mango in the centre and not really very filling as we only had one slice of French bread each.
The lunch we paid for came to £14 and that was the tomato salad and beef burger which couldn't eat and a beer between us. We spent less than that on a delicious meal at a lovely restaurant in Antananarivo with two beers and a dessert so it was really very poor.
WHY GO THERE THEN?
The reason people come to the reserve is to see the ring tailed lemurs everywhere around the lodges as well as the little common brown lemurs. We had a whole group of ring tailed lemurs sitting on our patio and I sat in a chair next to two mothers and their babies having an afternoon rest one day.
The other reason is to see the amazing leaping Verreaux's sifakas lemurs jumping along the ground. It is also a unique place to visit for botanists as the spiny forest contains plants seen nowhere else in the world.
WALKING IN THE DRY DECIDUOUS FOREST
We had three walks in the surrounding local forest. These parts of the forest was luckily not destroyed when the family who own Berenty forest came in the 1930s to start up the sisal plantation. It wasn't until the 1980s that they decided to set up the private reserve and build the lodges for people to be able to come and see the ring tailed lemurs and Verreaux sifakas. The common brown lemurs were introduced from other parts of Madagascar and have flourished in the area too.
There are so huge and very beautiful trees in the forest and many lose their leaves in the dry season. It is quite strange as you walk along paths covered in what looks like autumn leaves and apart from the fact that the trees are different types and the temperature is well over 30 degrees you could be in an English wood in Autumn.
The first part of the wooded area had huge tall trees and when we were there the egrets were nesting really high at the top. Underneath the trees were coated in white bird poo and the forest floor was covered not only in dry leaves but also in feathers and bird droppings. I was always rather keen to move through this part quickly as it smelled like a chicken farm and I was concerned I might get some contribution from the egrets landing on me. The noise they made was really loud too so smelly, noisy and messy, altogether not my favourite part of the walk.
As we walk around our local guide alerted us to anything he spotted. We saw a huge variety of bird life from the smelly egrets nesting to a number of different cuas , guinea fowl, quail, magpie robins, black kites, fly catchers and so many more. They were very quick and quite shy so hard to photograph however my husband did get a few good shots with his SLR, my point and shot was not much good for birds.
We saw a huge colony of fruit bats arriving back after the night out and settling in the trees to roost for the day. They made loud noises and got fed up when another bat landed on their branch and they felt the need to fly off and settled elsewhere. They make a huge flapping noise as they are coming in to land then neatly fold the 'wing' around themselves as they hang upside down from the branches. The tree looked like someone had hung lots of black bags up in the tree from a distance but as you got closer you could make out their little faces.
One evening as we were walking around a couple of brown lemurs came to a deep concrete hole full of water and they were trying to work out how to lean down to drink the water without falling in. we watched for a while then the guide went and picked up a large stick and put it into the water. The two who had been sitting pondering leapt off but another lemur came down and ran down the stick and managed to get a drink so the guide's efforts hadn't gone to waste.
The highlight for us was watch a group of the Verreaux sifakas leaping from tree to tree then they came down and leapt across the road just in front of us. They jump on their back legs and throw their arms in the air, looking rather like children jumping for joy. These are the only lemurs that do the leaping along the ground and they just look so hilarious, we stood and watched the group for about half an hour at least. These sifakas are white with a brown top to their head and black faces; they look like they are wearing a little hat and have lovely soft creamy white fur and the prettiest little faces with bright round eyes.
The ring tailed lemurs are everywhere around the lodges and are very cheeky. This is the lemur that you see on the film 'Madagascar' and they walk along the ground waving their tails like flags as they go. They have much smaller faces and pointier noses than the sifakas and they are smaller altogether. They swing and leap through the trees at speed and sometimes run at speed along the ground. Their call is a bit like a cat's meow and you hear them calling each other as they wander around. They reminded me of cats the way they lay on our patio and the rather superior way they walked around the place waving their tails in the air. What was lovely is that when two arrived on a branch or wall or wherever then they would great each other and kiss and check each other's baby out as though they were long lost friends. The two mums on our patio wall sat sleepily while their little babies crawled all over each other and around. They always kept half an ear or eye open just in case they had to rush off but you could see their heads drooping and their eyes shitting from time to time.
We also went for a night walk in the spiny forest and that was very strange. These huge cactus trees mad the place almost ghostly and you had to be a little careful as some of the plants were very prickly. We saw a White-footed sportive lemur which just sat and looked at us wide eyed in the dark with its eyes shining in the torch light. We also saw two Grey mouse lemurs and they were tiny with real lemur faces but the size of a mouse but they could leap about four feet from tree to tree as though they were on springs. These two are nocturnal lemurs and unlike the diurnal lemurs these build a nest and have two or three babies in the nest. The diurnal lemurs have one baby and it clings to the mother's fur for about six months until it is confident in its leaping ability.
WOULD I RECOMMEND?
Well you wouldn't go to stay here for the food and accommodation but it is worth it to see the wildlife and the vegetation in the reserve. It is a long and uncomfortable though scenically interesting drive to get to Berenty. The lodges are okay, they were built in early 1980s and they look dated but they are reasonably comfortable. The food is pretty poor and there is not a lot of choice really. Luckily on the first day the hotel in Antananarivo had packed up a 'boxed breakfast' and we had only eaten one box so we shared the other as our lunch which spared us the food and the cost of lunch on our first day. So don't go for the food or the luxury accommodation as you will be disappointed but the setting is fantastic and having lemurs just walking past you in the grounds and watching you from a tree as you enjoy a cold beer takes a lot of beating.
Personally I think they should start by doing up one bungalow at a time as they are looking very shabby, particularly the bathrooms and they should offer decent pillows.They should also invest in solar electricity to save the use of a generator as in the long run it would save them so much money as the sun beats down every day. They need to do something about the food as it is a very poor breakfast, no fruit at all offered and bread and jam is very boring unless you are a ring tailed lemur! The rest of the food needs to be varied a little and some vegetarian option offered too. When you are there for three days and the same is offered for lunch and dinner every day, all be it with a different name but it looked and tasted the same, it gets very boring. If you can't eat prawns as many people can't for different reasons then you are even more limited in your choice.
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Le Pavillon de l ‘Emryne (Antananarivo, Madagascar)
Le Pavillon de l 'Emryne - Hotel du Charm de Madagascar, Antananarivo We arrived here after a very long day. We checked out of the Vakona Lodge in Andasibe, we did a four hour forest trek, had lunch then drove back to Antananarivo which took about four hours with a stop on the way for a look at a reptile park and the ... toilet.
Antanarivo is a huge sprawling, chaotic city built on several hills with tiny narrow cobbles streets as well as wide boulevards. All I can say is traffic is total chaos but seems to work but I am glad I wasn't driving. We arrived at the hotel and all we could see was a very high wall, some steps and a wrought iron gate. This is no place for anyone with mobility problems as the steps into the hotel grounds are very large and very steep. For someone like me with short legs it meant very big steps up wards to get to the reception area.
This was a small room to the right of the main house and we were welcomed with a friendly smile and told that if we wanted a complimentary massage then this was available between 5pm and 8pm just let him know. Well as you can imagine I was back down within minutes after we decided that we would share a slot. Each massage was 40 minutes so we asked if we could have a slot of 20 minutes each as it was already 6pm.
THE MAIN HOTEL
We were taken across to the main building which was a 1930s French style house which has a lot of original furniture and has been modernised and done up but in a style in keeping with the house. As you enter the house you pass through a large porch which is labelled 'smoking area' and on either side is a nice sofa and table. Entering the house you are first into the sitting room which has sofas and a fire place and looks just as a smart French sitting room. To the right is the toilet which is one of the poshest I have seen with a black and white tiled floor and a Persian rug. The basin had a silver plaque with the name of the hotel between the two taps. The walls were adorned with paintings and old photographs.
To the left was a sort of conservatory area where breakfast was served which has glass topped tables and old style Louis XIV chairs which you sort of sunk into.
We went up the stairs which were wood with a Persian looking stair runner up the centre. Our room was another climb as we were on the top floor. By the time we reached the top we had done quite a bit of climbing and were glad that we were not the ones carrying the luggage up.
Each room had a double padded door for sound proofing which worked as we heard nothing from anyone else in the next room. There are ten rooms in total and I understand some are single rooms.
Our first thought as we entered was wow! The room was huge and the bed was two large singles pushed together and made up as a double but it still didn't dominate the room. It was made up in pure white lined and had a simple wooden frame which was quite elegant.
All the furniture was solid simple wooden style; the wardrobe had a coded safe inside it. The desk had the fridge and mini bar hidden in a cupboard and the light shades with very stylish to suit the age and design of the property. There was a futon type sofa which I presume you could use if you had children with you. Unfortunately there was a bedside table only on one side of the bed and the same with a reading light which meant I couldn't read in bed as I didn't have that side!
The floor in the room was polished wood but there was a large sisal carpet under and around the bed. This was quite hard to walk on in bare feet; it gave you a good foot massage as you walked on it and you certainly wouldn't kneel on it. There was also a grey wool rug near the grey futon/sofa and coffee table, this was a bit softer on the feet.
This was another wow! There was a good sized bath with wrought iron decorated sides. A huge walk in shower with lovely old fashion looking tiles which looked like old French wallpaper. The toilet was just white but the basin unit was all glass, modern with a central circular sink also of glass. It looked very sleek and shiny and not out of keeping with the rest of the decor as you might have thought. This is the kind of unit you have if you are not the one trying to keep it smear free, not at all practical as every water mark shows on the glass.
Soap in a block and in a bottle was provided and shower cream on the wall of the shower. There was no shampoo or body lotion and even more annoying was that there was no hair dryer so my hair had to look very clean but natural so it did exactly what it wanted! I did think that in the sort of hotel it was that there should have been a basic hair dryer as really they cost so little these days.
They only serve breakfast at the hotel but there are about four good restaurants which are a very easy walk from the hotel. Breakfast is served from 6.30am till about 11 am. It is set out on the period furniture in the lounge and you help yourself buffet style. On a dresser there was fresh whole local fruit and a delicious fruit salad. On the shelf above were four bottles with pewter lids and each had a different juice, passion fruit, orange, pineapple and mango. The bottles were constantly topped up by one of the two ladies working there.
On another dresser there was a selection of tea bags, a pot of rooibos tea, hot water, a coffee percolator and hot milk. This was left out all day and refreshed as needed so you could help yourself at any time to a drink or the barrel of biscuits beside it.
On the table was a wide selection of cheese, ham, bread, jams, crepes, yoghurt, Madeleines, cakes, pain au chocolat and cereals. You could also choose eggs done in various ways which again came just like that, a pile of scrambled, two fried eggs or an omelette, you had to put your own toast under and go and collect some of the ham to have with it if you wanted. It was a fairly typical continental breakfast I suppose but very well presented and in lovely surroundings.
These were lovely. Everywhere you looked there was something special, a small seat, a metal baobab tree ornament, a few pots gathered together with gorgeous tropical plants and then a little arbour with sofa and plants growing over it. All this was behind the huge wall which fronted the road and we noticed that there was curled razor wire all along the top of the wall so the house and garden were pretty secure behind this high wall.
There was free wifi all over the hotel, in every room and in the main lounge, sometimes it was a different server but the same code worked on all.
The free massage was wonderful. We had been walking miles and sitting in the car over fairly rough roads as well as crammed into planes for about a week and to have your shoulders, back, feet and legs massaged was just perfect. We almost skipped down the huge steps out for our meal after that.
Although check out was at 11 am we were not being collected for our trip to the airport until 1pm ad they were more than happy for us to sit in the garden or the lounge area and enjoy a coffee and the free wifi so I did a bit of catching up of putting photos on facebook and reading reviews.
We were only there over night and drove all the way through Antananarivo but I really can't say if this is a good location or not as we still have not discovered what there is to see in the capital city. We looked on the internet before coming and there does not appear to be any 'must sees' in the city so this is probably just as convenient as any other hotel in the city. It doesn't have a pool so if you want to lie around a pool then you need to look for another hotel.
For bed and breakfast in a superior room I think we paid about 65 Euros for the night which is a real bargain for this style of accommodation. I think the single rooms were about 60 Euros a night on the same basis.
WOULD I RECOMMEND?
A definite 'yes 'for this one. This was a hotel with charm and character. Everything was classy and done with taste and care. There pictures on the wall were old photos and paintings, the furniture was in the classic French style and it was just like staying in friend's home but with the ability to have breakfast when you want and a bit of anonymity. I really am not a fan of B&Bs where the owner wants to corner you and chat and you can't come back before a certain time in the evening. This was a small posh hotel with all the pluses of a hotel but at the same time having a very intimate yet comfortable feel to it.
The only negative s I can think of are the huge steps and there is no lift so not one for someone with any mobility problems. The other negative is the lack of hairdryer which I think would be so easy to sort with a small cheap one in each room.
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Gite de Ampijoroa (Madagascar)
En-suite lakeside bungalow at Gite de Ampijoroa This was the night we stayed to explore the Ankarafantsika National Park and thankfully we did only have the one night as it was very basic. We were warned that there was no hot water in the bungalows but when you combine that with the fact there was no fan and a sliding door ... that had to be shut otherwise the mosquitoes flew in and a pretty solid bed with pillows that had a few large chunks of sponge in them it was not the most comfortable night.
When we arrived we were taken for a walk to see the tallest Baobabs in the world. There were three and they were enormous and certainly worth a visit. On the way to the Baobabs we passed other native trees. There was a large raffia palm native to Madagascar that fruited only once in its life, strange sort of pine cone looking fruit from the outside but orange flesh and a large seed. We also saw zebu cattle grazing in the dried up padi fields which we walked across to cross a very interesting bridge which was constructed out of chain link fencing and steel cables.
After our walk in the midday sun we were escorted to our lakeside bungalow. Thankfully it was the dry season otherwise it would have been mosquito city and we would have been the dinner. The bungalow was solid and there were screen on the windows but not the large sliding door. We had a lovely balcony but only two hard wooden chairs to sit on so that was not the most relaxing place.
Inside we had a small double bed and two bunks which were basic pine frames which had been 'modified' with unfinished stakes to hold the mosquito nets so it looked like a cheap four poster but the net wouldn't stay up out of the way and only just reached the mattress and certainly not the floor. The curtain across the main entrance sliding door was a foot short of the floor too, obviously shop bought and not made to measure.
There were two very comfortable rattan circular chairs with cushions inside the room which we toyed with dragging out on to the veranda but it would have been hard work. There was no fan at all so it was pretty hot in the room in the middle of the day and early evening so we took advantage of the cold showers and sat with as few clothes on as possible to relax and prepare ourselves for the next walk.
The toilet was okay, it seemed clean but we also had a huge plastic bucket and a jug also in there plus the only waste bin in the room was also in there. It was basic but worked; the seat looked about twenty year old but was fixed onto the toilet which is always a plus point.
The shower was also clean but cold and had to be hand held as it wouldn't stay on the wall fixing. Once again there was a large plastic bucket of water and jug also in there which didn't add to its 'chic' look at all. Fortunately as it was so hot the cold water only didn't matter as much as it might have in other places.
We had a decent sized towel but although it was clean, it was quite crisp and Ii didn't sniff too closely when using it. We were provided with a small bar of lavender soap but that was it for toiletries. Needless to say there was no hairdryer but we did have a plug in mosquito killer and a large can of spray and then truly bizarre there was a box full of packs of condoms! I thought they were the things to go in the electric mosquito thingie but when I inspected them more closely they were indeed a box full of triple foil packs of condoms!! That is a first for me; I have never been given condoms in a hotel room before.
We only had electricity part of the day and it went off again at 9 pm so bed was the only option and it was so hot that we had a cold shower and didn't bother drying too much. Electricity came on again at 5 am and went off again during the day for some time too.
This place was all inclusive for food but not drinks. We had one breakfast, two lunches and a dinner while we were there.
Breakfast was a French stick cut in half lengthwise then cut into two halves like you would to make a long sandwich, butter and some jam. We also had a glass of fruit juice and a plate with half a mango and a slice of pineapple each. Then we could choose between coffee or tea and the only milk was condensed milk. That was it.
Lunch was a three course meal; starter was a choice of about four different salads which come on a small plate. They were okay plain but you were brought a salad dressing home made in a desert dish. The main course was again a choice of four but the same each day, a fried vegetable with rice which was actually courgette, tomato and potato so very starch rich, whole fish with rice, chicken legs fried with rice and fried zebu steak which was as tough as old boots. Deserts were a choice of fresh fruit cut up, so a peeled banana, half a mango and a slice of pineapple, or fruit salad which had a tonne of sugar in it, flambéed bananas and fruit crepe. The flambéed bananas were good, the crepe was awful, cold and stodgy with a fruit salad poured over it and the fresh fruit was fresh fruit!
Dinner was pretty similar to the lunch so by this time as we both hate having to deal with a whole fish on a plate and chicken on the bone the choice was becoming very limited so we went for a soup starter skipped the main and had the flambéed bananas and that was the best meal we had there.
This lodge would not encourage many visitors if it was not for its location next to or almost in the National Park. It doesn't win any prizes from us apart from the location either and if it wasn't for the fact that this is the only place where you can see the Coquerel's sifakas in the wild as well as the tallest Baobabs trees in the world then I would not really recommend this as a place to stay.
There was a lake which we had a view of from our bungalow and on the day we arrived we walked 4 km around the lake looking for water fowl, sea eagles and Nile crocodile. Now considering we had already driven two and a half hours from Mahajanga, walked about an hour and a half to the Baobabs and around the area then eaten a three course meal this 3pm walk we could have lived without.
We did hear the local legend about the lake and saw the spot where a zebu is sacrificed every year. According to legend the King of a Sacaraga tribe lost a battle to the king of the tribe from Antananarivo and rather than be made a slave he threw himself into the lake. The next day people saw a crocodile in the lake and so they believe the king was re-incarnated as a crocodile.
In the lake are about forty crocodiles now and tilapia, Nile perch and carp. There are a number of heron types as well as a pair of sea eagles which we did see the next day.
On our second day at 3pm we were taken for a walk along the road past all the village stalls and down to a small flat bottomed boat. This was a much more pleasant way of exploring the lake and we saw so much more that I really don't know why they walked us around it the previous day as we had three walks that day and two were in the heat of the day. On the boat trip was when we saw the sea eagles, the crocodiles and a number of water fowl and we also enjoyed a pleasant breeze and had a stool to sit on.
Our final walk was a night walk along the edge of the forested area and we saw a number of mouse lemurs, the Golden and the Grey mouse lemur as well as a Sportive Lemur all of which are nocturnal. The night sky was so clear that the stars were really beautiful. I am sure we could see the whole Milky Way. This walk was about an hour and a half and so we felt we had earned our beer that evening.
WOULD I RECOMMEND?
Yes if you are keen on wildlife and like to see wild animals in their natural environment but you have to be prepared for a less than luxurious room which only has electricity part of the time, no hot water and no fan and it is VERY hot. The food was not great but the beer was cold and only £1 a litre bottle so that helped.
I found this very difficult to allocate stars as the lodge anywhere else I would barely give one star but because it is a package to the National Park here which was a good five stars I struggled and opted for the three stars.
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Africa Hotel International
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