The Jewel in Havana's Crown (Hotel Nacional de Cuba (Havanna))

Name: gizmogizmo

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Product:	Hotel Nacional de Cuba (Havanna)
Date:	08/04/08 (376 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: An excellent introduction to Havana's charms

Disadvantages: None to note (despite the 'socks')

Back in 2004 I was lucky enough to celebrate the New Year in Havana the capital city of Cuba and vowed if ever I were to return I would spend a few days staying with the lady that is proclaimed to be 'The Jewel of Havana' better known as the Hotel Nacional De Cuba. Needless to say during that first trip I fell in love with the people, the music and the overwhelming ambience of the country and of course Che Guevara (all over again).

The Journey....

During my post Christmas blues this year I booked a return trip. We spend a relaxing day in the NH Crystal Resort in the Cayo's and enjoy a few Mojito's before joining the transfer coach which will take us on the 30 minute journey to Jardines Del Rey Airport and after a smooth check in we board our ATR42 Cubanacan flight (which needless to say is an experience in itself if you know your aircraft) for the late afternoon flight. We are served black coffee during the 40 minute flight which is so strong it manages to counteract my earlier Mojito's.

The lights over Havana are sparodic as we touch down and we depart the airport into the balmy late evening and one of the most stunning sunsets I have ever seen. Cubans mingle around the small kiosks outside - which sell small cartons of rum and little else and head for our awaiting 'taxi' - a souped up stunning pre 1960 Chevvy painted in a lovely shade of lilac which will be our ride through the suburbs and into Havana and our hotel the 'Nacional De Cuba'. With our luggage loaded safely in the boot we settle into the back seat and our driver Ramon proudly flicks on the air con 'this is the only taxi in Havana with air conditioning' it splutters and coughs and he promptly switches it off again.

The suburbs are alive with people (not surprising when you learn Havana has over 3 million inhabitants)- either waiting for buses (large camel shaped contraptions) or chatting with friends on dimly lit street corners and Ramon gives us a running commentary throughout pointing out famous landmarks and places we should visit during our stay. The final stretch of our journey leads along the Malceon - the stunning seafront of Havana which stretches for many kilometres, here you can see the once stunning facades of houses now battered by years of salt water erosion and fisherman trying to make a catch for a hearty evening meal. About 8 kilometres out of old Havana we see the Nacional sitting proudly above us and our Chevrolet navigates us along a spectacular palm lined avenue to the entrance.

Check-In....

Before my seat belt is unfastened the bell boy is holding the car door open and our cases are extracted from the boot and we climb the steps to the entrance of the hotels bustling Grand Lobby reception area where I am immediately struck by the sense of pride and nostalgia that seems to breath from every pore of the place - the walls are lined with sun bleached pictures depicting the stars of the revolution and the whole scene makes you think that time has stood still and you have been transported back to the opening night of December 30th 1930. Although the hotel underwent general restoration in 1992 the original decor is intact along with the original Otis lifts, stunning chandeliers and colonial styling complete with mosaic tiles covering the three arches that make up the ceiling. We are escorted to the check-in desk where our passports are quickly checked by the friendly and smart reception staff, given our key and have our first trip in the splendid Otis lift up to the second floor.

The Room...

Now I must warn you that on exiting the lift you may well imagine you are an extra in 'The Shining'.. when faced with a vast vast corridor that appears to be never ending. We note that certain rooms have plaques portraying previous inhabitants and I'm honoured to learn that we have been selected to stay in the room of a distinguished Buena Vista Social Club member! - that is until we open the door. The room smells slightly odd to say the least and we conclude that the guys socks are still lurking in the room somewhere (we never did find them). However we open the window and the mini bar to ease the pain. The window opens onto an inaccessible terrace overlooking the magnificent gardens and we are treated to the unmistakable sounds of a Cuban beat from the band playing below.

Despite the socks the room is remarkably comfortable, in the hallway (adorned with more pictures of the previous resident) a doorway to the left leads to a large bathroom which thankfully has undergone some modernisation accommodating a large bath with overhead shower a vanity unity which is well stocked with an array of soaps, toothbrushes, body lotion and aftershave (which we later distribute amongst Cuban friends we made on our first trip to Havana) ample towels and 2 robes. There is also a large mirror and hair dryer (ladies and/or gents be warned - this seriously lacks power so allow extra time for styling your travel damaged mop) if you decide to take your own remember to pack a 110/220v adaptor, and lastly there is of course a toilet and bidet.

To the right of the hallway is a large wardrobe with ample hanging space which also houses the safe the use of which costs of 3CUC per day and I'd advise you invest in this to store your valuables. The main bedroom is rather grand with an original dark oak dressing table a table and 2 chairs, bedside tables complete with lamps and a bed large enough to accommodate a small family. A small TV and telephone. Some visitors would say the rooms are outdated but for me the original furnishings and Bakelite light switches only added to the charm and nostalgia of the hotel - definitely not 5 star luxury but bare in mind that this is Havana. The maid visited daily throughout our stay leaving us a small note and gift each day which was a nice touch and on our departure we left behind a large pile of T-shirts and toiletries which I hoped would be of some benefit to her and her family. Eager to explore we quickly unpack, shower and change and head back down to the bustle below and on leaving the room I'm rather disgruntled to find that the former residents of the room adjacent to ours were non other than Frank Sinatra and Ava Gardner - well you can't win them all!

Refreshments....

The hotel boasts a total of 6 bars which open at varying times throughout the day however probably the best introduction has to be the Galeria de los Jardines which is located on the huge stone pillar lined terrace behind the Grand Lobby and looks out over the hotel's extensive grounds complete with peacocks, fountains and palm trees. Here I watch as the barman dressed in a crisp cream evening jacket meticulously prepares my Mojito. If you have a liking for rum you certainly will not be disappointed the cocktail menu boasts a staggering 20 cocktails based on the national drink of Cuba! alongside internationally branded whiskies, brandies and cognacs. They also serve superb coffee - something we learned after experiencing the worst coffee in the world at the breakfast buffet! and a selection of sandwiches should you feel like a snack after spending a day exploring Havana. We settle on one of the comfortable sofa's and are happy to people watch and again feel we are stepping back in time and spending an evening in the presence of Winston Churchill (who incidentally celebrated his 21st birthday here), Frank Sinatra, Marlon Brando and Ernest Hemingway to name but a few, visit in the daytime and you can conjour up images of such celebrities sipping Mojito's in the dappled afternoon shade. A stroll in the gardens is pleasant in the evening after the heat of the day has gone and from here you can hear the chatter drifting up from the Malceon where dating couples meet.

Breakfast...

On our first morning knowing we have a busy day of exploring ahead we get up early and venture down to breakfast which is served in the buffet restaurant located under the Grand Lobby, walking down the winding staircase the walls are adorned again with faded pictures of previous visitors alongside newer ones of Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell. Breakfast is an informal affair where you select your own table, pour your own badly made coffee from a machine and choose your own food which is surprisingly good. There are several cooking stations where chefs prepare fresh eggs cooked to your liking. A large fruit and cereal bar and a hot buffet providing everything from hash browns to chick peas and black beans. All in all it is a pleasant experience despite some guests giving the impression they haven't eaten for a week and a toaster that takes several attempts to toast bread. Due to my inability to function without a good strong coffee first thing we head outside to the terrace and the Galleria bar for a leisurely and superb black coffee before the adventures of the day begin.

Dining...

On our second evening in the hotel I am ravenous after a long day and on our return we book dinner in the Nacional's Comedor de Aguiar Restaurant for 8pm. Apparently this is reputed to be one of the best restaurants in Havana so after a long needed shower we put on our glad rags and head down to dinner. The restaurant is situated at the right of the Grand Lobby and the architecture within is stunning, I find myself gazing up at the ceiling constantly to catch the twinkling of the chandeliers and a talented pianist plays the Grand Piano throughout our meal. The service is impeccable and the Maitre D' attentive and considerate. After browsing the extensive menu, which incidentally offers a good selection of vegetarian options we order a starter each and a Chateaux Briand as a main course (something I am a little dubious about as Cuban's tend to undercook their meat), however it arrives at our table cooked to perfection served with fresh seasonal vegetables. The Chilean wine is superb - chosen under the waiters recommendation but a word of warning here it's actually more expensive than the meal!. However with the total bill coming to 77 CUC we cannot grumble. For me this was one special evening and i'll cherish the experience forever.

Activities....

Venturing out into the grounds one day 'the bloke' wanders off with the camera to get a shot of the skyline of Havana - whilst I find myself being lead down the garden path by an ageing Cuban gentleman! we enter a cave and he explains in broken English that the bunkers leading from it where built during the 1962 Cuban Missile Crisis. The cave displays much history of the Crisis, however non of the documentation is translated into English so I would thoroughly recommend taking the guided tour which is offered by the hotel offered daily at a cost of 5CUC which offers an informative insight into the history of the hotel and is well worth the money if you have a couple of hours to spare - you even get a sneaky peek at the Suite de la Republica where Churchill stayed. You also get to visit the basement cigar factory located under the lobby where a former employee of the world renowned Partagas Cigar factory expertly rolls cigars, sorry guys forget everything you've been told about virgins rolling them on their thighs this chap is well into his 70s and rolls them on a desk.
The hotel also arranges 'city tours' where you are designated a personal guide and driver for several hours I'd recommend doing this if this is your first trip to Havana as they can offer a wonderful insight into the city and it's history plus you have the added benefit of not getting lost! which is easy to do in Havana with it's block and grid system - similar to that used in New York.

If you fancy a bit of Cha Cha Cha and don't want to venture to the famous 'Tropicana' the hotel is reputed to have an excellent cabaret show the 'Parisien' running Friday to Wednesday 10pm - 2.30am and although we didn't visit fellow guests had an excellent night there. The hotel boasts two outdoor swimming pools, 1 art deco and one modern a sauna, steam room and gym. There's also a shop selling, rum, rum and a bit more rum and the usual touristy T-shirts depicting Che Guevara and an art gallery located under the Grand Lobby however you'd be much better off saving your pennies and spending them at the Feria del Tacon craft market located near the the Cathederal in Havana Vieja.

General / Location...

Located in Vedado the Centre of Havana it's 8km from Old Havana where you will probably find you spend the majority of your days - however this is only a 40 minute stroll down the Malceon or hop in a little yellow Coco Taxi a ride which is sure to blow away any rum induced cobwebs for 5CUC. Standard taxi's are always available outside the hotel and are plentiful in town for your return journey.
The hotel is owned by the government run venture Gran Caribe Group and has 457 rooms and 15 suites. We paid £79 per person for a three night stay booked as part of a 14 night package. All in all the Nacional De Cuba offers a perfect introduction to the delights of Havana and I'd certainly return at the drop of a cigar and/or Mojito should I be lucky enough to visit Havana again.

The Convertible Peso was valued at around 1.87 against Sterling at the time of our stay.
Hotel Nacional de Cuba
Postal Address
Calle 21 y O, Vedado, Plaza, Ciudad de la Habana, Cuba
Postal Code: 10400
Switchboard (53-7) 836 3564


This review has also been posted on Ciao

Summary: An excellent introduction to Havana's charms