Traditional Japanese lodgings (Tamahan Ryokan (Kyoto, Japan))

Member Name: Cat19

Product:	Tamahan Ryokan (Kyoto, Japan)
Date:	10/07/09 (74 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Traditional, unique, meals included

Disadvantages: This particular ryokan was expensive, three nights of authentic food is a bit too much.

Kyoto was the third stop on my tour of Japan. I imagined that the city would represent old Japan and indeed the style of architecture, number of temples and shrines and the common sight of geisha girls going about their daily business, reinforced my preconception. It was therefore fitting that we would try the traditional Japanese style accommodation, the ryokan, for the first time in Kyoto.

Although we wanted traditional, the holiday was something of an indulgence for us, so we were not going for budget. We therefore contemplated our options in the luxury end of the ryokan market and finally decided on the Tamahan. We made out booking through www.japaneseguesthouses.com , who were also very helpful in answering initial queries concerning the rooms, bathroom facilities etc.

Tamahan is situated in Gion, the historical part of Kyoto. It is on a small side street, but only moments from thriving, old-fashioned market streets. We were doubly fortunate to be staying during the annual (I think) Festival of Lanterns. In the evenings the streets were lit up by trails of lanterns, the shrines were illuminated and the shops and stalls were open until late, we loved wandering around in the evenings.

We arrived in Kyoto by train and took a taxi to the ryokan, it is advisable to print out the address in Japanese script to avoid potential language barriers with the taxi driver, who probably will not understand English. We were very impressed upon arrival and excited to be staying in such a traditional looking establishment, so far we had only seen a very modern Japan. The entrance is down a shady garden path and a curtain is over the doorway, which is kept open most of the time. There are only about ten rooms at the ryokan and presumably we were the only people due to arrive that day as we were greeted by name and invited to take a seat on the steps by the doorway to change out of our shoes and into provided slippers.

Suitably booted we were shown to our room. It was large, with straw tatami floor coverings and the furnishings comprised a very low table, cushions and Japanese artwork. We were delighted and really felt we were in Japan. Kimonos were provided for both of us, which we tended to wear during dinner and most of the time we were in the ryokan.

A number of rooms will share bathroom facilities, but we decided to take a room with private facilities. The loo was western style which we were pleased about as we saw no need to go overboard with our need to get an authentic experience. The bath was Japanese style though and it was fabulous. It was a small, square but a very deep wooden tub with a lid. Each evening it was run for us and a few lemons were chucked in as this ... actually I don't know exactly what this did ... but we liked it. The lid was great too as the bath was run at anytime in the afternoon and kept the water warm until we wanted to use it.

The evening meal would be served at whatever time was requested earlier in the day. To start with, water and any other drinks ordered would be brought through and at this point we knew we should take our positions kneeling or sitting on cushions on the floor on either side of our very low dining room table. Courses were very traditional, small and served one at a time. On the whole the staff knew how long to leave it before returning to the room to collect the empty dishes. A meal comprised about eight to ten courses, it was very interesting although some courses were hard work. And some were a bit too slimy for me, like the baby eels. An experience not to be missed, although on our third night I have to confess we decided to eat out!

With the evening meal finished, the staff would clear away the plates, bring some tea and then lay out the futons and duvets for the night. We slept very comfortably and whilst the walls are not designed to be sound proofed, nobody comes to a traditional ryokan to make noise and the other guests were after the same peace and quiet as we were.

Breakfast is also provided as standard, there is a choice of western or Japanese breakfast. Much as we love to try other cuisines, when it comes to breakfast we prefer western style and so this is what we opted for. It was served in courses, a bit like the dinner although not nearly as many courses. We received eggs, toast, yogurt, honey and fruit and it was a great start to the day.

Rooms in the Tamahan range from about Y30,000 to Y60,000 per person depending on the standard of room and whether the bathroom facilities are private or shared. At the moment with weak sterling this is a pretty hefty £200 to £400 per person a night, although when we went the pound was somewhat stronger. Nevertheless this is an expensive establishment and it is easily possible to spend less on the traditional experience.

Summary: A unique experience.