* Prices may differ from that shownMore Offers
I used this gripfill on my concrete drive believe it or not.Used an angle grinder to widen cracks slightly cleaned out crevisThen beaded in the gripfill went back couple hours later and all Very sturdy before there was movement in each cracked areaBut so far it seems to of done the trick .morter would of justCracked after driving over it think the gripfill has allowed someFlexibility so dont sound the rite way to do this sort of job butLooks like it has worked a treat.
"Gripfill by Evostik", part of the Bostik empire, so what is it then? I quote directly from the product itself; Gripfill is "A high performance, general purpose, gap filling adhesive". Quite an impressive sounding description, but does it deliver?
Put simply, yes it does deliver. It accomplishes all that it claims in an extremely efficient manner. What you actually get is a conventional type Sealant tube for use in a standard "Sealant applicator gun" - there is a slight niggle here but I will fully explain that later. The tube comes with an integral clear plastic nozzle, no chance of losing it that way and you can see the contents as they extrude thro the nozzle. Application is simple, cut the tip off the nozzle in order to give the desired bead size and required angle and as with all other similar type tubes, press handle of Gun and squeeze contents out of Nozzle. NOT QUITE...you will need to push a 3" long thin nail or piece of wire or something similar down the nozzle in order to puncture a secondary seal at the base of the nozzle where it is bonded to the tube. I am sure this has caught many people out over the years. It's not a problem, just a point to remember. The Adhesive itself is a quite viscous Greyish compound which sticks to virtually anything, even vertical surfaces - application really is simple.
The niggle I mentioned earlier is that whilst the tube fits into a usual DIY sealant gun, the tube, as supplied is slightly too long. What you need to do is, with a Stanley knife or similar, very carefully trim the back of the tube down so that it is flush with the top of the internal plunger plate. Ie shorten the Cardboard of the tube by about ¾ of an inch. When you look at the back end of the tube it will become obvious. Once this trimming is done - CAREFULLY, the tube slots nicely into the Gun. The trade guns attend to be a little bit longer and take this length of tube without trimming.
So to performance:-
As an adhesive it is really excellent, as you would expect coming from the "Evostik / Bostik" stable. I think you could almost stick anything to anything with this stuff. Amongst the things that I have bonded using it, with 100% success I may add, are, Skirting boards, Dado rails, Joints in Kitchen worktops, Wallboard, MDF, Plywood, Chipboard, Hardboard, Plaster board, Plaster coving, Wall cladding, Carpet Gripper, Sawn and planed timber etc, etc, etc, etc, all have successfully bonded not only to each other, but to typical wall and floor surfaces. The only thing I would say is make sure both surfaces are clear of dust, a quick blow or brush is usually sufficient, and prime porous surfaces, with a PVA solution. I have yet to find anything in this type of area that I cannot bond with it.
As Gap filler, it is also excellent, but not quite in the conventional manner to that for which you would use a tube of Mastic or Flexible decorating filler - It is a slightly different animal. The main purpose for the Gap filling properties of Gripfill is to fill voids between surfaces that you are bonding and to give good air / moisture sealing to joints. It also allows a degree of levelling between surfaces as it takes up these imperfections.
I have discovered that the best way of using its gap filling properties on edges and joints is to put a straight bead about ¼" away from the edge, so that when the two surfaces are pressed / nailed / fixed together a small bead extrudes out of the joint as "Waste". Allow this waste bead to "Go off" but not harden - this is the key point, once skinned over and hardening, usually about 30 / 45 mins the bead can be gently pulled away or helped by gently running a sharp blade down the edge, leaving a smooth and Filled joint. A certain amount of experience is needed to gauge this point but when you have it sorted it works every time, well it does for me. DO NOT use more adhesive than required as it will spread over anything it touches. Final cleaning if required can be done with a proprietary adhesive remover - such as that available from Evostik. I hasten to add this is rarely required unless you have applied far too much in the first place. Once fully hardened it is very difficult to remove easily.
I would not recommend it for running down a joint as you would a typical decorators Caulk or filler; it just is not designed for that type of use. It can be smoothed a little with a finger or flat blade, but not brilliantly. Follow the instruction on the tube and I feel that you will not be disappointed.
As with all different types of product, you will find your own uses and methods for use. I can only speak as I find and what works for me.
There are copious amounts of Instructions and warnings printed on the tube, please read them as they are important if you want to get the best from this product. I will make some points with regard to them here, the more important ones, in my opinion, along with some other observations.
In use Gripfill "Stinks" - it gives off a really strong smell, not unpleasant, but the smell will fill the area you are working in and it does linger for hours - usually overnight. Ventilate the area as you work if possible.
Gripfill does begin to "Skin" over pretty soon after being applied to surfaces so don't leave them more than a few minutes before them fixing together.
Keep it off anything you do not want to bond, it is difficult to remove at a later date.
Gripfill is highly inflammable.
Keep off hands and skin if possible, it takes a while to peel away if you leave it too long, and can be irritating if you have "Dodgy" skin as I do.
The nozzle does not come with a resealable or temporary cap so if it is left open to the air, after use, any unused contents can dry up quite quickly. If you simply push a push a nail or sliver of wood into the end of the nozzle you can extend the length of time before it goes off appreciably.
In conclusion, Gripfill delivers on all counts as advertised and I heartily recommend it. Please use it as it is designed to be used and not as a "Bodgers delight" as it can so easily lend itself to.
At around £2 - £2-50 a tube, and available at most DIYs and similar type locations as well as Builders merchants and Hardware shops, it is great value and a great product.