Ronseal Wood Repair System is a three-part system that can be used to repair and cure wet rot and prevent recurrence. However, major damage to wood can be repaired using Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler alone. Prepare rotten areas with Ronseal Wet Rot Hardener which binds and hardens decaying wood fibres to provide a solid base for wood filling. Repair using Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler which gives a tough flexible repair. Available in 2 colours - Natural and White. Prevent a recurrence of wet rot or prevent it from ever happening by using Ronseal Wet Rot Prevention Tablets.
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I bought this wood filler last week to help complete some jobs around the house. We have an old Georgian window which is in dire need of repair - looking at the state of it you'd think the easiest solution would be to remove it and replace with a double glazed window, however the house is all double glazed apart from this one window and it would be a shame to remove it - so I am saving it.
All completed work so far has been on the outside of the window.
The window was badly rotten so the first thing I did was to scrape out all of the rotten pieces of wood using a chisel (most of this was on the sill itself), then I used a wood hardener on the exposed bits of wood to, well, make them hard!
In the end the sill was so badly damaged, the solution ended up to cut a piece of wood to glue over the top of the damaged one... I filled the large holes with cement first and then placed this piece of wood on top and glued it down.
This is where the filler comes in:
The filler comes with a plastic application tool, a small tube of yellow hardener and then the murky coloured filler itself. Using an old piece of wood to mix the two together, the instructions state to use a golf ball sized about with approx 2cm of hardener, once you mix the two together you have 5 minutes to use it before it sets!
I used the filler in between the gap of the new sill and the frame which holds the glass. There were also several pieces of the wooden frame itself that were missing or crooked so I used the filler on these too.
The filler does dry VERY quickly and it is imperative you don't go over zealous in mixing a large quantity out to use as you may not be able to apply it quickly enough.
Some of the gaps I had to fill were quite deep so I had to apply 3 coats of the filler - the first one sank down in the recess which is to be expected, the second layer did it ever so slightly again and the third and final layer finished the job off nicely. I even used small slithers of wood to help fill the gaps, the resulting finish is that from a distance of a couple of feet you cannot tell where the wood and the filler meet and it looks like one piece of wood!
After 45 minutes or so this was totally solid and could be sanded down smooth ready for painting.
Unfortunately I won't be able to paint this for a few weeks as I also had to apply some special putty to the window frame around the glass where it had rotted and allowed water to penetrate. I used the Ronseal Wood Filler in conjunction with Linseed Oil Putty and Ronseal Wood Hardener (which I also recommend)
Please note: this product smells a bit! Like new car smell times 20, so if you are sensitive to strong smells then wear a mask. Gloves are essential or this stuff could rip your skin off... When sanding make sure you wear a mask as the dust particles go into the air and breathing in fibreglass is dangerous.
This product is great if you have wood jobs around the house that need a lot of filling - especially external ones. Some people will say to use a mix of glue and wood chips but this will not last long in extreme weather outside - the filler will.
Why not use epoxy resin and wood dust from your project to make a wood filler that beats the lot - this sets hard chemicaly no matter the thickness, doesn't shrink, won't fall out and matches your project.
In these strightened times cost saving is important so producing your own wood filler makes sence. It is easy, quick and foolproof, all you need is two part epoxy (Araldite, Z-Poxy) and some of your own sawdust. Mix the epoxy adhesive and hardener togeather in equal parts, blend in the sawdust to make a stif paste and apply to your project where required.
This will fill holes to any depth in one go and set firm ready to be worked in 5 to 30 minutes depending on the epoxy used and the ambient temperature. The fully cured filler is stronger than the wood, will take an edge moulding without crumbling.
If you want to repair carving details or replace missing bits on picture frames you can make a copy mould using Copydex latex adhesive in successive layers laminated with tisuepaper or thin cloth as a support. Use the above epoxy filler to create the replcement piece which can be glued in place to make the repair.
You know it makes sense
If you are doing any sort of DIY with wood around the house the chances are that the joints will not be perfect and there will be some little gaps left somewhere. Although you can spend hours sanding and planing to get a perfect finish the easier answer is to cheat a bit. As so of the much wood around the house is painted, if you use a wood filler you will not be able to tell the difference between filler and wood. The best filler I have found is the Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler. There are plenty of cheaper wood fillers around but I have found that when you use a cheap filler it will nearly always shrink dramatically and this will lead to cracks and gaps. A tin of the Ronseal filler does cost £5.99, but I believe it is worth this money. When you take the plastic lid off of the tin you may be surprised, as there is another lid inside. This recessed lid contains a piece of plastic for mixing the filler and a small sachet of hardener. To use the filler you mix together the filler and the hardener. Obviously the amount you mix will depend upon how much you have to fill, but the ratio is about a golf ball size of filler with and inch and a half of hardener squeezed from the sachet. Normally I would suggest that you don’t mix any more than this at any one time. After mixing the two together you have about five minutes before it starts to go hard, so you do have to work pretty quick. The temptation is to mix the filler in the recessed metal lid, but it is difficult to get the filler out of here and once it has gone hard it cannot be removed. I have found it much better to use the plastic lid for mixing the filler as then you can use every last bit of filler and if any does go hard you can just bend the lid and it drops off. The filler does shrink a small amount so you do need to leave it a little bit proud, but this only needs to be a small amount. After about 30 minutes the filler is hard enough to sand s
mooth. As the filler dries very hard it can be hard work to sand the filler down by hand if you have put on too much. If you have an electric sander then it produces a wonderful smooth finish, with very little effort. The filler can be painted straight away and will give a very long lasting finish. If you have any mixed filler left over do not be tempted to put it back into the tin. The hardener will react with all the filler and will turn the whole lot hard in time. I have found that if you keep a tin of filler that after a few months although it will still work it does not seem to make such a smooth paste and is a bit more difficult to use, but will still result in the same smooth finish. I have bought a lot of this filler and have always been 100% satisfied with the result that I have achieved when using it. I can highly recommend it for any DIY woodwork. HINT: If the gaps you are filling are a bit large then use slivers of wood to fill the majority of the gap and then just use the filler to fill any remaining gaps and to produce the final smooth finish.