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D-Link DGS 1005D
by grahamt
So, switches and hubs: what's that all about then? Well, quite simply, they both do the same thing: connect together devices on a computer network. So, what's a router then? Well, it connects different networks together, securely. Basically though, they all do more or less the same thing: enable computer data to get from one place to ... another. In a typical computer network you may have one, some or all of these. Routers may be wireless, wired or both; hubs and switches are only wired. If you have just a wireless network in your house you are unlikely to need either a switch or a hub.
When I wired up our house (having been in IT for 37 years I have a well-developed distrust of wireless networks) I only put a single network port in each room. However, in some rooms I wanted to connect more than one device; in my wife's office I needed to connect both her laptop and also a network attached printer. To enable both to be connected to the single network port I needed a hub or a switch. But which?
Well, a hub can only deliver data to one device at a time whereas a switch can enable data to be delivered to multiple devices simultaneously. Therefore, a switch performs much better but is, naturally, more expensive, though the difference in price doesn't usually amount to a lot. The extra is probably worth it for the improvement in performance.
When I first wired up my wife's office she only had an old Packard Bell laptop which offered only a 100Mbs network interface, so I bought a cheap and cheerful 5 port 10/100Mbs switch from Maplins for just under £20, which I reviewed here some time ago. It's still doing a good job but my wife has since swapped her old laptop for a new Packard Bell which has a 1000Mbs (Gigabit) network interface, so the switch was now something of a bottleneck, especially when carrying out backups to our NAS (network attached storage) server.
At the same time, our need to buy a new TV (recently reviewed here) introduced the need for two devices to be connected to a single network port in the lounge: the TV and my wife's old laptop, now pressed into service as a media server underneath the TV. As the TV, like the old laptop, has only a 10/100Mbs network interface, the old network switch could be pressed into use behind the TV, replaced with a new 10/100/1000Mbs switch in the office, to enable maximum data throughput there.
So, which to buy? The best value for money that I could find was the D-Link DGS-1005D 10/100/1000Mbs 5-port switch, which I got from Amazon for the very reasonable price of £22.75, including delivery.
The whole device is very compact, just a little larger than the switch it replaces. The top is slightly curved from side to side and contains the LEDs that indicate the status of each port. The rear of the device has the 5 Ethernet ports and also the socket for the supplied power plug. Note that it doesn't look like the picture shown at the top of the page.
Installing could not be easier: plug in the power lead; plug in the Ethernet network cables; you're done. As expected, it worked first time. To check it out I did a backup of my wife's computer using Synchredible and checking the data flow with BitmeterII. The backup completed far faster than previously and the BitmeterII barchart showed that data was being shifted across the network as fast as is probably possible, considering only CAT5E cabling is installed rather than the recommended CAT6.
The other big plus with this device is the advertised energy savings. This is the first switch I've seen that bigs this up. Apparently the circuitry on each port switches itself into standby when the port is not active. The claiming is for up to 85% electricity savings. Though I have no practical way of proving it, I'm prepared to take their word. It should keep the device a whole lot cooler as well.
So, overall, very pleased with my purchase. At the price it seems unbeatable value for money. Only time will tell if it proves reliable. No reason why it shouldn't. There's really not much that can go wrong. If you have the need for more connections, they make an 8 port version as well. Read the complete review |
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D-Link DKVM 2KU
by Nibelung
Being a bit of a computer hobbyist, Albert Steptoe and magpie rolled into one, it'll come as no surprise that I've ended up with two desktop PCs.
As I write, I can almost feel one of my wife's somewhat hypocritical* homilies relating to the difference between 'want and need' coming on!
(*You should see her ... wardrobe(s) !)
Back to PCs - there's the one I intended to own, and there's the other that I've 'come by' after helping someone choose a new PC, who then uttered those fateful words "could you get rid of the old one for me?" as they reached for their plastic.
Truth be known this addition to the Nibelung clan (or should that be LAN?) is reasonably high specification, and with the addition of 4gigabytes of RAM and a 'new' second-hand 500 gigabytes hard drive, the old one having being the cause of its original demise, it really 'flies' having been loaded with the latest version of Ubuntu Linux, the freebie operating system.
Thus, I can justify to myself the fact that I'm using it to teach myself a whole new set of computer skills. I was going to call it a 'research machine' but that's a bit high-flown for what I've got in mind!
What I can't justify to myself is cluttering up our office, aka little bedroom, with 'two of everything' - monitors, mice and keyboards.
This is where a 'KVM box' comes into the picture, the initials standing for...............
KEYBOARD, VIDEO AND MOUSE
Since keyboards and mice, and to a certain extent monitors come with a variety of connections these days, D-Link have a variety of these 'KVM' switch-boxes, some allowing for digitally linked monitors (DVI input), some allowing for mice that now insist on being-USB connected rather than the previous standard known as PS/2, these being the green and mauve circular plugs at the back of your PC.
The variant I bought allows for the usual green and mauve jobs, a typical analogue VGA connection for the monitor, but with the addition of a single switched USB port. This could either be used for a 'fussy' mouse, or, if yours still has the PS/2 capability, some other USB device that you'd like both PCs to have access to; a back-up drive or a printer let's say.
GETTING IT WORKING
Set-up is pretty easy. You get two generous wiring 'looms', one for each PC. At the D-Link end, this manifests itself as what looks like a VGA connector, with a USB plug attached. You then connect these, giving consideration to which PC you want to call PC1.
At the PC business end, you get a VGA lead, the green and mauve mouse and keyboard leads and the USB lead which you break out and plug into your respective PCs.
Someone who wrote a short tirade on this product back in 2008 was clearly connecting it up back to front as he was complaining about the video lead being a yard long whilst the other leads were only one foot long! ALL the plugs at this end go into your PC - the yard long effort goes to the box!
IN USE
The box works as unobtrusively as possible. If you only turn one machine on, then, you won't know it's there. Turning the second machine on makes no immediate difference, and it's only when you press certain key-sequences that it switches, e.g. Scroll-Lock twice followed by F1 to swap PCs. There are others.
Well, that's how it's supposed to work. However, they really had to pick the Scroll-Lock key to initiate the 'hot key' switching, didn't they?
Problem Chris?
I'll say - I haven't got a Scroll-Lock key on my Logitech cordless keyboard.
THE CLASH OF THE BLUE-SKIES THINKERS
In separate rooms and worlds apart, here's how I see the storm clouds of incompatibility forming.
On the one hand, we've D-Link's think-tank, pondering a flip chart upon which someone has felt-tipped 'Which key can we use to switch PCs?
'I know, let's use Scroll-Lock - after all when was the last time anyone used it?' suggests some keen little so-and-so.
Somewhere else, Logitech's team are looking to streamline the cordless keyboard that I ended up buying.
'I know, let's get rid of Scroll-Lock' pipes up some genius, 'after all when was the last time anyone used it?'
LOW POINTS
I do find the leads a little shall we say unco-operative, being quite thick and stiff like aerial or satellite cable. If you only want to stand two PC boxes side by side, the length is something of a an overkill, and leaves a mess of leads to stuff away in true 'sweep it under the carpet' form. I'm reminded of swans swimming against a strong current - all is serenity on top but there's a real mess below the surface.
Oh yes, then of course I can't do any 'hot-key' switching. Actually, it's not such a show-stopper as I tend to use one PC or the other, and alone they initiate the box properly anyway. It's only when I try to flip-flop between PCs that the fun of trying to locate the box down there in the gloom and fumbling for its manual switch starts.
HIGH POINTS
If you actually have a Scroll-Lock key, then the box can be trusted to be left behind your PCs down among the dust bunnies as it can be controlled from the keyboard. I've had a couple of instances of having to operate the switch manually (or in other words, once a year). I put these down to the order in which things were switched on.
I SHALL NOT REST....
...until I've found some alternative to the Scroll-Lock problem. True both Windows 7 and the Ubuntu 'distro' of Linux have what are called 'on-screen keyboards', which in Windows' case you invoke by typing OSK into the search box. These then allow you to 'click' on a virtual scroll-lock key.
Yes it sounded initially like a work-around of sorts but the keystrokes have to actually come from the keyboard for the D-Link box to detect them. What I REALLY need is a new keyboard (not an option), or some means of physically entering key strokes that are the equivalent of Scroll-Lock, rather than in any software that comes with the Logitech. Perusal of the internet forums tends to indicate that this is not going to solve itself quickly.
GETTING ONE
These seem to retail for around £34, but my version came via a 'refurb' specialist on E-Bay for £11.99.
Probably someone returned it after finding out about the Scroll-Lock problem! Read the complete review |
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Belkin Omniview E Series 4 Port KVM Switch
by Neo420
Belkin Omniview E Series 4 Port KVM Switch
This is a useful gadget that allows you to use the same computer monitor screen, keyboard and mous with upto 4 different PC towers. It doesn't need a power cable.
This is a small box. I'd say about 15cm x 10cm x 4cm. On the front of it there are two ports that you use to plug in ... the keyboard and mouse you want to use. On the back is where you plug in the monitor you want to use and also where all the other cables go.
I use this with my main PC and a second smaller media PC. I am only using two PC's with this so I only have the cables for those plugged into this. For each PC tower you want to control, you get 3 cables:
- one for the keyboard that goes from the PC tower's PS2 port to the back of this box
- A cable for plugging into the PS2 mouse port on the PC
- And a VGA monitor cable that you plug into your PC where you would normally plug your monitor. It goes to the back of this box.
There's 4 small LED lights on top of the unit labelled 1 to 4, so you can see what number PC you have control over now. There is a select button underneath these that you press to change between the connected PC's. It makes a beep sound as you press the button.
I like it as it means I don't have multiple keyboards / mice and monitors getting in the way and it doesn't take up any space on my desk.
However, it has PS2 connectors for the keyboard and mouse which means though that it probably won't be suitable for everyone as USB connectors are now used on most new keyboards and mice. In fact, my main PC doesn't have a PS2 socket for the mouse, so I am using a USB mouse with that. I am fine with using the keyboard only with the media PC so it is no problem for me.
I am not sure if this is to do with the Belkin KVM switch or something else but the keys on my keyboard sometimes seem to get stuck. Windows will think the Control key is pressed for example when it is not.
* Price *
You should be able to pick this up for less than £15 on Ebay.
* Summary *
I have given this 2 stars because a lot of newer PC's support mainly USB keyboards and mice. Also, it doesn't remember the last PC I was using when I turn it off and back on again.
I can only recommend this for people who have more than 1 PC tower that has the older type PS/2 connectors for the mouse and keyboard, and want to be able to use them without having to have multiple keyboards / mice and monitors. Read the complete review |