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I bought a a red TL1000R new in June 1999, and have just sold it almost 3 years to the day. The bike handles and goes ok as is, but a set of end cans and either removing the top of the airbox, or just the valve operated flaps within it is a good place to start minor improvements - the increase in torque means you can be in the next gear up at any given speed with as much grunt still available. There is a problem with the TL1000R, known to Suzuki but in their usually style they ignore it, and hope it will go away. At 11 months and 2000 miles my bike broke down, the fuel injection light came on and the bike would not start. The problem was mis-diagnosed twice by Carnell (no surprise there then) as a faulty fuel pump, in fact it is a water trap in the wiring loom, in the connector to the solenoid on top of the battery. Water gets in during washing or whilst out in the rain, the water then rots the connector out. My bike had the entire wiring loom replaced. My advice is check your bike, dress the connectors with electrical grease and seal the whole thing with silicon. Oh and if Carnell carry the work out for you, it will take them 3 months, the bike will come back with a fuel leak, missing headlamp proptector and the cast sectors of the frame will be tarnished from being cleaned with too harsh an acid cleaner - oh and you will vow to never ever buy another Carnell bike - Hey! as an example. What else, junk the steering damper and go down to a 180 sector rear tyre to aid the bike's turning in. Rear tyres last 2000-3000 miles, Avons are good value at £160 per pair (Universal Tyres) Insurance - me at 34 yrs with 4 yrs NCB £450 fully comp with Hastings Direct. They make a lovely sound TL1000R, are odd looking and the media sticks the boot in on them - with no real justication. Pay £4000-4200 for a good 3 yr old S/H model, I've seen damaged repairables for £1400 - but when a new fairing panels costs in e
xcess of £200 - chosse your used parts carefully.
I treated myself to a 2000 model in Blue and White. All I can say is...BLOODY BUY ONE. I havent had a single tank slapper...I think that is media hype. In my opinion there are two modifications that are a MUST. The first is to install a manual overide switch for the cooling fans.....as you can imagine the rear piston and all sits between your thighs...so things get a bit sticky if you get caught in heavy traffic. The fans do come in but the bike (and you) are too hot by then. Simply bridge the sensor (bottom right corner of radiator) and run wires to a switch. I mounted mine in the air duct cover on the right side. You can then turn the fans on and off at will without making the sensor redundant. The second is to fit a rear hump pad....this not only tidies up the hump/seat area by 200% but it does stop your leathers/jeans form scratching the paint. I strongly recommend a visit to :- http://www.mccallister.freeserve.co.uk/index.html This guy really knows his stuff....I run the race settings for the suspension......VERY STEADY and precise handling. I know that the MEZ3's are standard and it is IMPOSSIBLE to get them to turn faster because of the round profile on the front tyre. I am going to change to the new Bridgestone 010's when these wear out.
Red, loud and fast. This is a very cool bike . The handling is much better than the dodgy S and the extra damping mechanism doesn't really detract from the performance. I thought it was impossible to do a wheelie, but I am changing my mind! This is the first twin I have had and i'm impressed. This is no screamer like my previous GSX-r. and moving thourgh the gears is a pleasure not a necessity I can easily touch over a certain limit without even looking for it... this of course could get me in trouble!!