A Fairy Tale Place (Carcassonne)

Member Name: reg_scrat

Product:	Carcassonne
Date:	16/07/01 (404 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: The Best Preserved Medieval town anywhere, Rich with History

Disadvantages: Touristy in summer

The old town of Carcasonne is one of the few places where you can experience what it would have been like to have been a courageous knight defending the ramparts of your fortified town against your plunderous neighbours.

Carcasonne, for those without a map handy, is in the wine-producing Aude region of Southwest France, in the shadow of the Pyrenees. It is about 60 miles SE of Toulouse, and easily accessible by train via Toulouse or Narbonne.

It is divided, by the Aude river and four hundred years of history between the modern town (a Napoleonic fortress laid out on a grid system) and the Old Town on the heights above. This site, ringed by two walls and 53 towers, was restored to its current condition during the Romantic revivial of the 19C.

Carcasonne was the focus of the Albigensian Crusade, mounted by French nobles in the 13C against the heretic Cathars. Carcasonne was one of many Cathar strongholds in SW France which, one by one, fell to Simon De Montfort and his cronies. It was one of the five Cathar dioceses. At their last stand, at Montsegur (Safe Mountain) in the Pyrenees, over a hundred Cathars threw themselves to their deaths off the cliffs rather than renounce their beliefs.

Today, Carcasonne is popular with tourists, and there are some aspects of the old city which are cheesy. But these are not overwhelming, and if one chooses to go out of season (I recommend March when the weather is nice) you will at least avoid the crowds. Within the old town there are several hotels and a very good youth hostel. Two days is plenty to see the town, however, don't plan for much more.

Apart from the fantastic ramparts and towers (hours of exploration there), there is the 13C Cathedral of St Michel and St Vincent as well as the Chateau Comtal. I recommend the tour of the Chateau (over an hour) - altough it is given in French (so if your comprehension is a bit rusty, make sure you bring along someone who can repeat the h
arder bits in English for you). The tour of the Cathedral is self-guided and very interesting.

But for true enjoyment, venture just outside the city walls on the side towards town. From here you will catch the glow of the afternoon sun as it sinks over the distantly visible snow-capped Pyrenees. Very nice.

Finally, be sure to take a taxi from the station (in the new town) to the veille ville, as it is a bloody long uphill walk (take it from someone who did it with luggage).

Definitely worth a detour on your next trip to France.

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