An Impressive Town in South Bohemia (Ceský Krumlov)

Member Name: Praskipark

Product:	Ceský Krumlov
Date:	10/08/09 (73 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Medieval town filled with coffee shops and culture -not forgetting brown bears

Disadvantages: Too many tour groups

It was one of those wet, dreary days in the Czech Republic when we hopped on to the packed bus heading for Cesky Krumlov. Hoping the weather would brighten up a little as we waved goodbye to the enormous bus station in Prague, I started to wonder what this town, often described as the second fairy tale town in Czech Republic, was actually like.

Sometimes the countryside in between towns in this region of South Bohemia can be plain, flat and somewhat dull but fortunately the splendid Gothic and Baroque architecture make up for this.

Once we had arrived in Cesky Krumlov the drizzle was still with us but we didn't let this dampen our spirits and decided to look for a room for the night straight away so we could then settle down to walking around this wonderful town.

The bus station in Cesky Krumlow is on the outskirts of the town and from this position doesn't look much different than other Czech towns except that the top of the castle is very noticeable and I should imagine it can be viewed from every angle of the town.

We were very lucky to find a pension just on the outskirts of the town and it was actually only about ten minutes walk from the centre. After dropping our bags in the room which was very pretty with wooden shutters, pine furniture and two windows overlooking the rooftops and the castle we dashed out to see the sights.

The Vlatva river forms two wide arcs around the town. One of the semi circles encloses the Old Town, and in the second loop stands the castle. It comes as no surprise that this beautiful historical centre was added to UNESCO's World Heritage List in 1992.

The rather ramshackle buildings and the monastery in the Latran quarter were once desperately in need of attention, so I'm told. When the Germans - who had lived here since the town was founded by the Viteks - were evicted in the post war period, many buildings fell into disrepair, but much has been preserved and work is still being carried out.

This is a very unusual area as it is very high in the meandering structure of the town and across the river near to the castle. The streets are a bit wonky with very low houses. At the time we were there, there was a wedding taking place behind several closed doors - a Jewish wedding. It was fun to stand outside in the rain listening to Jewish traditional folk songs (klezmer) but it would have been even better if we had been invited in to see the traditional wedding dance. I wanted to peek through the windows so I could see the bride and groom as I love Jewish weddings.

The river Vlatva is actually a very pretty sight; spanned by wooden bridges, meandering through quiet pastures. It is peaceful to walk alongside the river as you go out of the town and listen to the sound of wildlife as you pass by.

I found that Krumlov's Gothic and Baroque features are best appreciated late in the afternoon. I spotted many hidden features. The shapes, the colours, the narrow alleyways, the crooked arcades - all these idiosyncracies make walking through the streets a wonderful experience. It's like going back to Medieval times.

Walking around I noticed many, many visitors and a lot of these people were in tour groups. This can be annoying as there are lots of tour leaders waving their tiny flags around and stopping in the middle of the streets to inform the visitors of the history of the town and so on. Groups tend to walk very slowly whereas I move like a high fast train and get frustrated when I get stuck behind a crowd.

The castle is probably the main attraction - it is the second biggest in the country after Hradcany in Prague. The 13th century, pastel pink tower, can be seen from practically everywhere in the town. About 300 years after the tower was built, the fortress was converted into a Renaissaince castle and then in the 18th century, the Schwarzenbergs built the unique castle bridge. Three arcades, forty metres high and 30 metres long were built one on top of another.

There seems to be a very special artistic atmosphere in Krumlov. In the years when private initiatives were frowned upon elsewhere in Czechoslovakia, galleries were opening here and the town played host to avant garde artistic festivals. The Hall of Masques in the upper castle is the best place to witness this independent spirit. Visitors can be guests at a commedia dell' arte, a masque; the walls are covered with painted theatre boxes; grimacing faces appear from behind original scenery, harlequins in their multi-coloured diamond suits, women in all their finery and pot-belllied noblemen join in the fun. There is a priceless collection of original costumes, props, scripts, scenery and working theatre machinery.

During the summer months the town's social calendar seems to be a busy one. In the middle of June I witnessed the townsfolk dressing up in historical costume for a colourful carnival which recalled the years of the Rozmberk family. Vilem of Rozmberk was a very important diplomat in Bohemian history. He was known for his love of Italian Renaissance culture and architecture. At the same time, the owner of the Eggenberg brewery, a descendant of another important local family, organised a beer festival which was noisy but a lot of fun and some scrumptious ale!

The South Bohemian drama festival attracts foreign theatre groups which takes place in the Baroque theatre which is in the chateaux complex of the castle. Other international events include some fantastic art exhibitions in the Egon Schiele Cultural Centre and the August Music Festival.

I have always admired the work of Egon Schiele and I was as pleased as punch when I came across this gem of an art gallery. You can't miss the building as it is only a five minute walk from the main square and is housed in a jewel of a building - an old municipal brewery. It is quite a large gallery covering 20th century contemporary art. Before entering the long gallery of exhibitions there is a large area selling books, posters, T shirts and other information regarding the artists whose work is displayed in the gallery. The exhibitions do change but there is always an exhibition of Schiele's work and presentations on his life and work. Schiele's mother was born in Cesky Krumlov and it was here where he brought his 17 year old lover away from the prying Viennese intelligentsia but was eventually driven out of the town as the residents didn't approve of his wayward antics. The things we have to tolerate as artists!

There is also a cafe and studio workshop. In June, last year, when I visited there was an exhibition featuring Picasso, Mark Chagall and Matisse so as you can imagine I was in my element.

I can't express how pleased I was to find this art centre. It is one of the best centres I have visited. It is packed with information about the movement of 20th century art and having just looked at the website I wish I was there now as there are exhibitions showing Russian political posters and paintings depicting social realism. Two of my favourite subjects. Entrance fee is 5.50 euros which is a bargain and it is open every day of the year.

The Church of St Vitus is another attraction that can be viewed from most angles of the town. It was built in the 14th century and has a very Gothic exterior. This is the resting place for Vilem of Romberk who converted the architecture of the castle and town. It is only a short walk from the centre and is open to the public.

The Castle garden is the usual venue for public performances as it not only possesses an open-air theatre with a revolving stage, but also provides an unsurpassable backdrop: the town and castle.

As Cesky Krumlov is a very popular place with tourists there are plenty of pensions and small hotels available. As you walk around the town you will notice adverts for rooms displaying pictures and prices so there are lots of choices. The pension we stayed in on this visit last June is the Pension Amadeus. A large double room with en-suite bathroom costs around 50 euros. Breakfast is included which consists of a selection of cereals, bread, jams, cheese and various meats and copious cups of coffee which I always need.

Hotels generally range from 80 euros to well over 200 euros for a double room with breakfast.

Foodwise - you are spoilt for choice in Krumlov. If you just fancy a coffee and a cake there are lots of little coffee shops dotted around the town in medieval buildings serving the most delicious coffee and cream cakes. I always thought towns in Austria excelled at this past-time but Krumlov is up there at the top of the list. Cakes look splendid behind spotlessly clean glass cabinets and everything is served on trays with dinky cups and pretty porcelain plates with serviettes and a flower. I am not a great cake eater but I loved the cafes here.

There are Chinese and Sushi restaurants and restaurants serving traditional Czech food. Our favourite restaurant is the Satlava Taverna which is located in the centre and it is in a reconstructed Renaissance building. The taverna is very dark with low arches and solid stone walls. The decor of the restaurant is medieval with an open fire. Service is a bit slow but the food is extremely delicious and huge portions and guess what - Budvar beer, lots of it, either the light or dark variety. If you are lucky you might witness a sword fight by a passing musketeer. (Look out for the review soon).

Before I finish off the review I just want mention my favourite attraction in Krumlov and the special time to view this attraction...........

As you aproach the castle walls you will encounter the bear pit which is inside the castle moat between the first and second courtyard. These are very special brown bears and this species have been kept here since the early 18th century. They really are quite large but not at all menacing.

There is a special time of year to witness the playful activities of these brown bears and to see how incredibly greedy they are. Last year I was very lucky to be invited to stay with a friend in the Czech Republic and I was taken as a guest to the Bear festival on Christmas Eve. It was a bit of a rush job as I had to get back to Poland for the midnight festivities in Warsaw but I am glad I made the effort.

The Bear festival was originally organised as a traditional festival for children who were impatient and couldn't wait to open their presents.

It is quite an event and not something I knew much about or expected to see on a snowy Christmas Eve morning. In the early hours of Christmas Eve morning a head bear keeper and his colleagues take a huge selection of sweets, biscuits, fruit, cake and gingerbreads to be placed on the enormous spruce trees that surround the moat. The trees have already been decorated with ribbons and baubles to give the area a Christmas feel. All these goodies are tied together on one long strand so that when the bears tug on one of the sweets the others will follow and dissolve into their mouths. Children with parents can visit the moat and instead of paying an entrance fee they take handfuls of fruit, honey, cakes, and confectionery. These presents are laid out underneath the decorated spruces for the bears to eat.

It is a spectacular occassion with all family members taking part. Not only do the brown bears recieive large amounts of sweet food, visitors have a party too. Children are given reciprocal presents of sweets, paints, pens, toys, chocolate and adults are treated to fruit punch. When everyone had finished eating we then had to depart from the special enclosures so the bears could be led in to enjoy their feast. Standing on top of the bridge I was able to see the bears being led to the moat to devour every morsel under the decorated christmas trees. A fine sight to behold for children and grown-ups especially with soft white snow falling delicately on the ground. It really was a very enjoyable event - one that I will always remember.

So when in the Czech Republic leave Prague behind and take a trip into South Bohemia to Cesky Krumlov - a town filled with vibrant life, medieval streets, colours, majestic buildings and brown bears. A most impressive town.

Summary: Czech Republic's second fairy Tale Town