The Elegant, Vibrant Air of Cusco (Cusco)

Member Name: Puggers

Product:	Cusco
Date:	13/05/05 (194 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: Great atmosphere, Elegant, unspoilt architecture, Proximity to numerous outstanding Incan sites

Disadvantages: The altitude, Beggars

Though it is often viewed simply as the gateway to Machu Picchu, Cusco has to be one of the most incredible cities on earth, and is overlooked at the traveller's peril. Quite rightly, the Inca Trail and the famous Incan citadel at its end are the major reasons many people will come to Peru, and an eagerness to get straight onto the trail is understandable - however, spending a week or so in Cusco itself is something I would strongly recommend.

~ A breath of fresh, if giddy, air ~

If only to acclimatise, one should take a few leisurely days in the city before exerting themselves; the altitude is well-noted, and is unlikely to come as a suprise in itself, but the extent to which it affects you may do. At 3000 metres, what should be a relatively comfortable stroll up the half-kilometre or so from the Plaza de Armas to San Blas becomes a great exertion as you puff along over the last few steps (and I thought I was fairly fit). However, this does subside, and after a couple of days you should be able to explore the city and its surroundings with ease. A number of remedies are suggested, amongst them chewing on Coca leaves to alleviate the symptoms. This may have some effect, but few cures are as good as taking things slowly and having plenty of rest - a good reason to leave a good amount of time when planning the timing of your visit.

It should be noted that the Soroche (the most serious manifestation of altitude sickness) is a dangerous affliction, and should be given the respect it deserves. It can affect anyone, regardless of fitness or health ~ so take care. For some of course, there will be no perceptible effects, and for most it will be little more than a brief irritation.

Most travellers are likely to have flown into Cusco from Lima, and will quickly appreciate the enormous differences between this place and not just the capital, but almost all major cities. Built into a secluded valley high in the Andes, the city is a remedy to every flaw that Lima had; the pollution is replaced by fresh, crispy air, the streets are not adorned by fast-food restaurants and miles of concrete, but charming cobbles underfoot and shops which actually fit into their surroundings, and the endless drone of assorted noise is replaced by the occasional brief interruption of the friendly hubbub.

The sky is noticeably nearer here, too - the close, soft blue above offering a physical aspect to the notion that this is a city which exists in a bubble, protected from the crassness and McDonalds-isation of the outside world.

~ Orientation, and filling one's stomach ~

It's likely you'll be staying somewhere in the vicinity of the Plaza de Armas, very much the hub of the city and providing a point around which most of the principal attractions can be reached by foot, even though the city extends for several miles out in various directions. We stayed in San Blas, a small, quieter square to the north-west of here, still within five to ten minute's walk. Around this area, a number of museums and imposing cathedrals can be explored, and the majority of shops, restaurants and bars are to found amongst these streets. Avenida Sol leads away from the Plaza from the next corner to the road to San Blas, and provides a variety of more practical, everyday shops - Pharmacies and suchlike - as opposed to the arts & crafts outlets / Internet cafes elsewhere around the centre.

Taxis tend to be easy to find at all hours of the day and night, circling the Plaza de Armas and surrounding areas, and are rather cheaper than those of Lima - three or four Soles will take you most places within a couple of miles.

Centred around the Plaza de Armas, a wealth of eateries compete fiercely for attention, all offering a good array of soups (Sopa Criolla stood out for me), salads and meat-based main courses, plus the nation's most infamous dish, Cuy (Guinea Pig), for a very reasonable sum. Another of the region's most popular dishes, Rocoto Relleno, is also to be found across the city. The battered red pepper, filled with meat and vegetables, is delicious and filling, if a little on the spicy side for many.

Cuy and Alpaca both merit sampling at least once, especially the former, tasting like a richer, darker descendant of lamb. The city is also particularly strong on Mexican-Andean fused dishes, with the majority of the establishments hiding away down the narrow streets heading north-west away from the Plaza de Armas, especially Procurado, Teqseqocha and Plateros. Also around here lies Mia Pizza, which unsuprisingly offers a large and superb menu of Italian meals, as well as the beef/chicken/lamb numbers found elsewhere (about 100 yards up Procurado, on the right).

The area around San Blas also houses a number of fine establishments, such as Pacha Papa, on the south-west side of the square, facing the church, although these tend to be a little more pricey than those around the Plaza de Armas.

Post-feeding, the nightlife of Cusco is as lively and enjoyable as, if less varied than, that in Lima - once again, the Plaza de Armas is the place to be; the square is lined with drinking houses, from the Irish pub, Paddy O'Flaherty's, on the eastern corner, or the English-ran Cross Keys roughly opposite, to the twin bars, Mythology and X'ess, on the north-eastern side. The latter two are notably cheap, often offering free drinks if you grab one of the many flyers being touted around outside. Even without these, three Cuba Libres (exceptionally skillfully poured) for 10 Soles doesn't represent shoddy value. Mama Africa's is a similarly lively, if slightly pricier, alternative next to Procurado - one should note that the thin air at this altitude does seem to help alcohol go to your head that bit quicker, so one circuit of the Plaza should be enough for anyone.

~ Sacsayhuaman and the Cristo Blanco ~

Straying a little further from the centre, the ruins of Sacsayhuaman lie to the north of the city, around two miles' walk from the Plaza de Armas. Buses and taxis will take you up into the hills for a modest fee, dropping you outside the entrance, but we chose to walk up around the back of San Blas, following the stairs and narrow streets cut into the hillside to the top. Going a little off-track does remind you of the vast number of people living in considerable poverty, even in a fantastic place such as this - a fact that one can lose sight of when surrounded by such lush and delightful scenery. Taking this route also runs you past the Cristo Blanco as you wind your way west along the crest of the hill towards the ruins, which is worth a look, although is sadly fenced off. The impressive statue, strongly reminiscent of Rio's Christ the Redeemer, overlooks the city and can be seen still dazzling brightly when all else is dark at night.

Sacsayhuaman itself is a must if you have any time in Cusco - the stone defences are superbly preserved, the remnants of the fortress overlooking a great, flat plain below. When we were there in 2004, there was more archeological work being done behind the main tiers of the ruins, so there may be even more to see in future.

There is a tourist card available from a variety of attractions which grants access to many sites, including museums, the Cathedral and Sacsayhuaman. However, we coped without one; wandering into the fortress unaware of any payment being required - one bonus of going there by foot, I guess.

~ The gloomy side ~

There are few negatives to mention for Cusco, but as ever, there are some. The streets after dark seemed safe enough to me, although I wouldn't want to stray too far from the more well-trodden paths at this hour. Most of a presence at this time are the street urchins, who are officially banned from the Plaza de Armas - this, though, is hard to police, and they are likely to be a nuisance for tourists at all times, but even more so in the evening. It is tempting to give in to their begging, but this tends to be counter-productive, only drawing in more of the poor children. Probably better would be to make a donation to a relevant charity (there are several doing amazing work in the area) if your conscience is troubling you.

~ Ultimately ... ~

Overall, this is area which really deserves to be visited. It is unlike any other city in its atmosphere, and although it is tourist-oriented in many ways, this is never too heavy or offensive a presence - rather, the people are simply very friendly and accomodating. The basics of your stay will all be impressively cheap given the amount of trade that passes through here, as well - food is likely to be the most pricey element of your stay, but a bit of searching and varying can get round this (and it tends to be worth it, anyway). By all means, experience Machu Picchu - but try to find as many free days as possible to first take in Cusco.

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