Why Düsseldorf? (Dusseldorf)

Member Name: mancsoulsister

Product:	Dusseldorf
Date:	26/04/02 (1050 review reads)
Rating:

Advantages: great food, great bars, great shopping

Disadvantages: none actually apart , from no shops sell , Marmite!!!!!

It was a hot and sticky July afternoon when I received the news through from my boss. I was to be posted to Düsseldorf. This wasn’t really the news I had been expecting and my only immediate answer was ‘Why Düsseldorf?’ They came up with the all the usual answers, I speak German, it is a new challenge etc. All the same it was with a very heavy heart that I packed my bags and belongings and left Cairo for Düsseldorf (I mean if you had the choice what would you choose Cairo or Düsseldorf? Exactly!). In my mind I had images of a totally concrete no-name city in the middle of Germany’s heavy industry region, a sort of German version of Rotherham or Stoke! My first impressions seemed to confirm all my worst fears. The city was covered in a blanket of grey cloud and it was raining. All the buildings looked lost and lonely and it reminded me of Manchester (a city I other wise love) pre 90s make-over.

First impressions are not always the best ones and before long I started to understand ‘Why Düsseldorf?’ and have learned to love this very misunderstood city.

Düsseldorf is the capital of the German Federal State ‘Nordrhein-Westfalen’ and as the name would suggest it is situated directly on the Rhine – the river that has proved crucial for Germany’s industrial development. It is a very well located medium sized city – a 45 minute drive to the Netherlands, an excellent railway network to other cities in the rest of Germany and a totally revamped international airport (the old one was destroyed in a fire several years back!) with regular flights to most places in the UK. For this reason I would look as Düsseldorf as an ideal starting point for exploring the area. Düsseldorf has a lot to offer and here is a run down of my favourite bits

THE ALTSTADT
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The Altstadt is a stones throw away from the Rhine and is a pedestrianised myriad of narrow winding alleys, old churches
and bars. The Altstadt is infamous in Germany and is referred to as ‘die längste Theke der Welt’ (the longest bar in the world) and this is not far short of the truth. This tiny area is literally littered with small bars, pubs, cafés and restaurants. There are not many places in Europe that beat the Altstadt for a wild night out. And the excellent public transport system means that you can always get back home after a long night on the tiles.

For me what makes the Altstadt so special is the beer. Düsseldorf is famous for its ‘altbier’ which is a top-fermented ale-like dark brew, which is nothing like the pils offered elsewhere in Germany. It is deliciously light and moreish (although don’t be taken in by the lightness, it is actually quite potent!). It is served in small straight 0.3l glasses and is available in abundance! The Altstadt is home to several brewerypubs that produce and sell their own brand of altbier. The atmosphere in these pubs would go a long way to dispel the myth of the humourless German. And the bier flows until you fall over (or put a beermat on top of your glass). For those looking for a few pointers of where to go here are are a few tips.

Zum Uerige
This brewerypub is located on the corner of the main shopping street. It is large and has plenty of space. In the main hall like room you can even look at the vats the beer is brewed in while partaking of a wee tipple yourself. And watch out for Herr Dörscht in the corner (when you go you will know what I mean!)The summer sees Uerige spilling out onto the leafy cobbled street next to it and a second bar and tables are set up for as long as the weather lasts.
The Uerige own brew I think is the best altbier in Düsseldorf. The Uerige also has undoubtedly the cheekiest waiters in Germany as well. If you try asking them for anything other than beer, be prepared for a snide sarcastic snub – take my advice and stick to the beer.
I honestly
can’t think of a pub with a better atmosphere anywhere.
Mancsoulrating *****

A Tavola
As the name rightly suggests this is in fact an Italian place, an Italian restaurant to be precise. Located on the Wallstrasse, my Dutch colleague Pieter swears it is the best place for food in the whole of Germany. I think that might be exaggerating a little. Having said that it does offer a wide range of very freshly cooked Med. food at affordable prices. The menu includes succulently cooked lamb and freshly baked freshwater fish. The secret weapon is the dessert, just try the wonderfully light crepe – it is to die for. A Tavola is quite a cosy small restaurant with lots of little wooden tables and has a very intimate atmosphere. The maitre d’ (it’s not that posh I just don’t know what else to call the guy in charge!) is very friendly and speaks good English. This place is perfect for an enjoyable food evening.
Mancsoulrating ****

Hecker
Hecker has recently been totally refurbished. This stylish place to be used to be a rather down-at-heel conservative restaurant. It has now been kitted out with the obligatory pale wooden floors and green plants. Despite it’s very in and trendy new image, this is quite definitely THE place to come for cocktails. I feel I am a bit of a cocktail connisseur and am always eager to find new places that serve up the best brightly coloured umbrella and cherry drinks. The cocktail menu at Hecker is extensive and very imaginative. The drinks are really tasty and if you can’t find what you are looking for then ask. The staff are usually prepared to mix up some special personal concoctions. If you are feeling a little peckish, Hecker is also a pretty decent restaurant as well.
Mancsoulrating ****

The Steigenberger
Ok for those who know this rather swanky upmarket hotel will know that it is not exactly in the Altstadt. It is however within staggering distance a
nd is a wonderful place to stay if you want to visit. This huge barock style building is at the end of the Kö (more of that in a moment) and across the road from the Altstadt. When I first moved to Düsseldorf this was where the company put me up until I found my own place. Although it is a little pricey (180Euros for a double room), it is still good value for money. The rooms are reasonably sized and all have a beautiful en-suite bathroom. The service in the hotel is very friendly and I found the staff very helpful when it came to exploring the city. There is a large lounge on the ground floor and they have some ‘wellness’ areas as well (massage, facials etc.). The location is what makes this hotel and if you can afford the visit (they do offer weekend specials) then certainly give it a go, you won’t be disappointed.
Mancsoulrating ****

RHINE BOULEVARD and HARBOUR
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Coming out of the Altstadt you can’t help but notice a large river. This is the Rhine. This is a main meeting area for people especially during the summer months. Along the edge of the Rhine is a wide promenade where you can literally see everything – jugglers playing with fire and passing hats (the first juggler I saw was actually English!), the young and sporty inline skaters weaving in and out the whole length of the promenade, jetskiers dodging the freight ships in the water, people sitting outside on the café terraces that line the promenade, people taking their dogs for a brisk winter walk. Whatever time of year you come to Düsseldorf, the Rhine Promenade is always alive with activity. For people watchers who want to see the world go by (as I am), there is really no better place than the ring side seat on the promenade.

At the top end of the promenade, about 2 kms from the Altstadt, there is a large park. This park is full of hobby footballers playing around and dogs chasing stray ba
lls (this is the only park in Düsseldorf where dogs are officially allowed off their lead). In front of the park there are three large floating bar-cum-restaurants which are perfect places for a late afternoon snack. Somehow it gives you that’I’m on holiday’ feeling even when you aren’t.

At the other end of the promenade is the prominent TV tower which also marks the start of the docks area. The tower can be seen for miles around and is a good orientation point. The habour area is not really much of a dockland anymore and has now been nicknamed the ‘Media mile’. During the last 10 years or so this area has been through a huge regeneration and the old rotten dock buildings have been transformed into modern offices. This is the home of Düsseldorf’s media, publishing and internet industry. The area is now strewn with young trendy bars and cafés for the ‘alreadytheres’ and the wannabes. If you want to see and be seen then this is the right spot for you. If you are more politically minded then the Harbour is also home to the Regional Parliament (Landtag) and a few semi-famous German Politicians can be spotted in and around the buildings. So where to go if you get stuck in the Harbour? – Never fear MancSoulSister is here ;-)

MK-2
Until fairly recently this used to be home to the famous Carl Maassen fish restaurant. When they went bust, the MK-2 was converted into a trendy disco come bar. Gone was the plaice and chips and in came the DJs and fancy drinks. Although a little out of the centre of town (Kaiserstr.) -This is a great place to go and let your hair down. It has a general 70s ambience at night (thanks largely to the massive number of lava lamps lying about all over the place) although the music is very much in the traditional German Techno style. The lounge club has great comfy chairs and the atmosphere is hip but laid back.
Mancsoulrating ****

Berens am Kai
As you
may have picked up I go out to eat quite a lot. And Berens is one of the places I love as a special treat. Slap bang in the harbour on the Kaistr., this restaurant offers the best food I think I have ever tasted (sorry Pieter!). The baked ‘Loup de Mer’ had me in tears it was so divine and the wine list would have any expert smacking their lips in anticipation. The restaurant itself is quite large and has a bit of a cool warehouse feel to it, something the staff seem to have taken to heart. (Smiling is something they stop doing when they walk through the door). The food however makes up for everything (even that sinking empty wallet feeling at the end of the night!)
Mancsoulrating ****

Robert’s Bistro
For years and years I used to argue with my dad about what a Bistro is (he thought it was just a fancy French word for a caff!). Next time he comes over to visit I will take him here. This is such a cosy little restaurant on the Wupperstr. that forces you to make friends. The tables are all quite close together and conversations with your neighbours are unavoidable. The French style cuisine makes my mouth water just thinking about it. It ranges from soft tender lamb (yes I like lamb a lot!) to warm salty goats cheese. Each meal on the menu is a creative statement and you can try some really wonderful combinations. Considering it is a very popular restaurant, the prices are really really good value.
Mancsoulrating *****

THE KÖ and HOFGARTEN
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Forget your Bond Street and your Fifth Avenue, if you want shopping luxury then the Kö is the place to come. It is actually called the Königsallee, but everyone calls it the Kö. The Kö is renowned throughout Germany as the country’s most exclusive shopping street. Despite recessions and economic troughs, the Kö seems to go from strength to strength. Some of the world’s best known designer brands can be found - Armani, Prad
a, Escada, Joop to name but a few. Yes you’ve guessed it, this is where the serious big bucks hang out. And Düsseldorf has plenty of them. Luxury is everything, the wrong pair of shoes can get you seriously off on the wrong footing!!!. The Kö has a canal like waterway flowing through it’s middle – which is again good for orientation.

The highlight of the Kö for me is the ‘Stilwerk’. This is a temple for better living and houses the widest range of household furniture and goods I have ever seen. It has the big names like Alessi as well as more exclusive one off designers. Most of the products are described as ‘art’ or at the very least ‘designer’. However, it is not the goods on sale that most people come to see or buy but the architecture. The building consists of five storeys in an ellipse shape, topped at a height of 32 metres by a glass roof which gets opened up when the sun is shining. For those who like to look at the rich and famous in exquisite surroundings while remembering not to buy, this really is the highlight of the Kö.

Heading away from the nearby Altstadt down the Kö, you will sooner or later arrive at the Kö bridge which marks the end of the Kö and the ‘beginning’ of the Hofgarten. The Bridge itself has a huge statue of Triton hunting fish. I think Triton is somekind of Greek God but am not sure! The statue however is very impressive!

The water flows past Triton and into the Hofgarten. The Elector Carl Theodor had the Hofgarten built in the 18th century for the pleasure of the residents of Düsseldorf. It is often claimed this is the forerunner of the English Garden in Munich. The garden lost its ‘Englishness’ when Napoleon took over the city (he is reputed to have called Düsseldorf his little Paris) and took on a more French regimented style. Nowadays the garden seems to be a mixture of all styles and is great in both Summer and Winter. I love
reexploring the paths and walkways and have a bit of a rest in this green oasis after a hard Saturdays shopping!

The Hofgarten is also home to Düsseldorf’s culture. The Deutsche Oper am Rhein (the Opera house) and the Schauspielhaus (Playhouse) are all within its confines. But my favourite cultural reference in the Garten is the Goethe Museum. Goethe is to German what Shakespeare is to English. And like Shakespeare, if a city has reason to believe that Goethe has rested his head in a particular spot, then that is excuse enough for a plaque or a museum. So it is with this Goethe Museum (although he actually stayed in the Malkasten next door!). Having been forced to read Goethe both at school and at university, I decided to check the museum out. I was very pleasantly surprised. Along with the many manuscripts and letters from Goethe himself, the museum also owns many beautiful porcelains and busts and all that set in a beautiful pink baroque style building in the middle of a large park. I think it is well worth a visit even if you know nothing about Goethe!

As I am usually more interested in your bodily needs rather than your spiritual ones, you are probably now expecting a few tips of where to go on the Kö. I, however , do not have the kind of money that lets me eat out in this part of town and would advise those on a budget to head back in to the ‘Altstadt’. If money is not option, then try the café in the Kö Galllery, they have the most expensive open sandwich in Europe!

Well that takes us to the end of our tour of Düsseldorf. If you are in te area and want a few extra tips then drop me an email and I will be glad to help. I have learned to love the city and now fully understand why Düsseldorf and I am sure you will too. Knowing what I know now, I would choose Düsseldorf over Cairo as a place to live anytime.

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